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[Shagma]

I have emission light lit frequently on my x20xev, especially on cold start and high rev. Paperclipped it and it gives me EGR fault.
I have cleaned it and checked the functionality by connecting the vaccum hose and 12V on the connector.
Could this emission warning be resulted in clogged passage to inlet pipe, or will this not be regonized by ECU as a fault...?
Tried to clean it 1 year ago, howevert, it is very narrow, could not find a way to clean it properly...

I also have a cracked exhaust manifold, could this possibly cause EGR fault...?

Performance is reduced....

[Abiton]

IIRC the EGR on a (earlyish - '96N) x20xev is a two-pin electrical connection.  This suggests to me that the ECU doesn't receive any feedback about what is going on with regard to the solenoid valve's position.  The only thing it will be 'looking at' is whether there is a solenoid of approximately the correct impedance at the end of the wiring.

I can put an Ohmmeter across ours this evening and let you know what the DC resistance of the coil is. Never had any codes relating to EGR on ours, so would assume that it is within spec.

Pete

[Shagma]

Highly appreciated

[Abiton]

No probs.
Actually not the easiest thing in the world to get a couple of meter probes onto, but I couldn't be bothered to try and work out which wires they were at the ECU connector end, so I persevered.

30-31 Ohms is the answer I get, which seems plausible.


 

[Shagma]

I suddenly relized I was not fully aware of my task

I have a spare EGR in my garage.. checked the resistance between the two connectors on the EGR, and the result was 0.

But i assume you wanted me to check the resistance between the two wires from ECU while engine is not running...? Is that right..?
I measured the voltage in this connector once, and I think it was 12V...

[Abiton]

What I did, and what I was suggesting that you compare readings with, was unplug the two-way connector at the EGR, and measure across the pins of the EGR itself.

If you did this on a spare EGR and got zero Ohms, I can only guess that your probes slipped on the pins so that they were shorting together, or the spare EGR was itself rather sick.  Edit; or I guess there may be a diode in the EGR which your meter was 'seeing through' - try the probes both ways round and see if the reading is the same.

Measure the one in the car, and it may be a lot easier if you attach some flexible wires to your meter probes, for ease of touching the connections to the EGR.

[Shagma]

You're right.. I tried again today and found 28 Ohm between connectors. Should be fine...
So... I know the valve have 12V supply voltage, I know it operates correctly when applying 12V to soleniod, I also know that the vacum hoses are fitted and not leaking. Anything else I should check...?

[Abiton]

Well it sounds like the solenoid is good, so the only other suggestion I have is to check the wiring back to the ECU.

If your wiring is the same as mine, you'll find that the cable-tray that runs along the side of the engine has the injector connectors integral to the lower surface of the tray.  This means that the injector wires come up vertically before turning toward the front of the car.  All the other wiring in the tray runs at 90° to these emerging injector wires, and there is the potential for chafing of wires where vertical and horizontal wires cross.

On ours this resulted in the coolant temperature sensor's wiring shorting out to injector wires.  This gave codes for CTS failure, and killed a replacement sensor before I found the root cause.  Worth a look just in case something similar has happened, but in your case to a EGR wire.

A little improbable, but easy to check.