Oops - mini facelift - different climate system.
You didn't say whether you had set the controls to heat the cabin but if the fan was running at 4/5 and the HBV was open I wouldn't be surprised at a big temperature difference between the two pipes to the heater matrix.
Thanks Andy H for your reply, i did put in my post that the heater was set to LOW(cold)on both sides
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Ooops again

If the heating controls don't want heat then surely the HBV should close & the heater matrix pipes go cold (a small amount of heat might still find its way into the flow pipe though).
I have forgotten exactly what your cooling problems are & what you have tried so far but;
1. heater problems can provide an early warning of general cooling faults but I think you need to be looking at the front of the engine.
2. IIRC the amount of heat rejected as heat by an internal combustion engine is about 60% of the engines useful power output so a 100kW engine will need to get rid of 60kW of heat through the radiator. The heater is good for between 5 & 10kW so the old trick of turning the heater on full can get you home if your radiator is marginal.
3. I have had two cars in which I have solved long running cooling problems by fitting a new, genuine radiator. The first was a chevette which had a tiny pattern radiator fitted. I spent weeks trying to find a cheap fix but a full size radiator fixed it. The second was a Carlton (Omega A) which was OK until a spell of hot weather had me driving 100 miles with the heater full on. I fitted a new genuine radiator a few days later and that fixed that one
