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[feeutfo]

have seen mention of earth leads causing a mirriad of codes, battery leads and connections all sound? terminals tight, and where the clamps crimp the battery leads are they solid, is it worth checvking your getting steady volts when its running, just thoughts, i'm shite with electrics....hope you sort it.

[Ian_D]

have seen mention of earth leads causing a mirriad of codes, battery leads and connections all sound? terminals tight, and where the clamps crimp the battery leads are they solid, is it worth checvking your getting steady volts when its running, just thoughts, i'm shite with electrics....hope you sort it.

Checked voltages across battery when its running and thats all fine. Battery terminals seem fine too, nice and tight. Its also had a different battery fitted to in the last 5-6 months, so I know its not the battery leads anyway!

I will check over the earthing points again though...

[Bixy1]

Hi, Sounds similar to a problem I had a few years ago with an injection granada, turned out to be a dodgy fuel pump!
 
Is the output from the alternator constant?  :-?

[Ian_D]

Hi, Sounds similar to a problem I had a few years ago with an injection granada, turned out to be a dodgy fuel pump!
 
Is the output from the alternator constant?  :-?

I could understand if the fuel pump was faulty, but I still don’t understand why the fuel pump relay is clicking on/off. Even if the pump is dead, surly the relay should always be on?

Seems to be from what I can read with my digital multimeter.

Bit OTT, but since I've just repaired an old DSO (Digital Storage Oscilloscope) I will see how clean the voltage is across the battery... A good excuse to use it! 

Anything else worth ‘Probing’ while I’m under there?

[Ian_D]

Right, I've tested the voltage across the battery, and its sat at a constant 14.0v volts, with VERY very little ripple. So that’s the alternator ruled out!

The fuel pump relay was still clicking on and off all the time when at idle.

I was stood under the bonnet scratching my head listening to the relay clicking off, then straight back on again… it was as if it was on for a few seconds, then off for maybe 1/4th second, and this repeated itself over and over until..

The relay clicked off...
still off...

…about a second or two later, engine starts to run rough...
fraction of a second later, the revs fluctuate up and down, and it misfires badly... it just about stalls, and then CLICK, the fuel pump relay clicks back on and all returns back to normal almost instantly.

SO... the rough running is caused by the fuel pump relay been switched off. Has to be imho?  :-?

Not the question is WHY is the relay turning off? Is it worth temporary wiring it to an ignition live feed? :-/

[Ian_D]

anyone?  :-/ :-?

[Andy B]

anyone?  :-/ :-?

Apart from the FPR ..... no!  :-/
Sorry. 

[Ian_D]

anyone?  :-/ :-?

Apart from the FPR ..... no!  :-/
Sorry. 

Didnt think the FPR was electronic? :-?

[Kevin Wood]

Dont know if it helps, but heres a list of codes which the car had the day I changed the scranshaft sensor:

Total number of fault codes: 8

00133 - Intake Manifold Valve 2 Voltage Low
Present

00074 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Voltage High
Not present

00063 - Intake Manifold Valve 1 Voltage High
Not present

00054 - Fuel Pump Relay Voltage High
Not present

00062 - Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve Voltage High
Not present

00034 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Voltage High
Not present

00033 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Voltage Low
Not present

00019 - Incorrect RPM Signal
Not present

All this lot is fed from the main relay, which is one of the purple ones (next to the fuel pump relay). This includes the multiram valves, which is why they are playing up.

I would say the feed to this relay (which comes from the ECU) might have an intermittent connection, which is causing all the engine electrics to momentarily die. Worth swapping the relay over in case the problem is internal to the relay as a first step though.

Kevin

[Ian_D]

Dont know if it helps, but heres a list of codes which the car had the day I changed the scranshaft sensor:

Total number of fault codes: 8

00133 - Intake Manifold Valve 2 Voltage Low
Present

00074 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Voltage High
Not present

00063 - Intake Manifold Valve 1 Voltage High
Not present

00054 - Fuel Pump Relay Voltage High
Not present

00062 - Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve Voltage High
Not present

00034 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Voltage High
Not present

00033 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Voltage Low
Not present

00019 - Incorrect RPM Signal
Not present

All this lot is fed from the main relay, which is one of the purple ones (next to the fuel pump relay). This includes the multiram valves, which is why they are playing up.

I would say the feed to this relay (which comes from the ECU) might have an intermittent connection, which is causing all the engine electrics to momentarily die. Worth swapping the relay over in case the problem is internal to the relay as a first step though.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin, I will be going back to the Omega that I’m breaking on Sat Morning, so I will swap over the relays then. I’m wondering if it’s worth making a 'bridged' relay if that’s the correct term with one of the spare ones (basically remove all of the insides and bridge the contacts so its always on). Then worst case, if ever I break down, I can stick the blank / bridged relay in place and carry on.

Will let you know how I get on Kevin. 

Thanks again.

[Kevin Wood]

I have a couple of bits of wire with a spade connector on each end. No need to take the relay apart. Handy for this sort of diagnosis. 

Let us know what you discover.

Kevin

[Ian_D]

I have a couple of bits of wire with a spade connector on each end. No need to take the relay apart. Handy for this sort of diagnosis. 

Let us know what you discover.

Kevin

Actually, yes that would be a better idea as its not going to be relay specific then!

Only down side is I would need the pinouts for the relays (again, that’s not too had to work out though!).

Will let you know how I get on.

[Ian_D]

Back to this again... its still happening! I’m now starting to get bored of it too... :-/

I've 'unchipped' the ecu, and put it back to standard again - no different still cuts out for a split second every now and then randomly. 

Its NOT the relay that’s at fault as the relay signal from the ECU drops when the relay clicks off.

Tried it with the EGR and MAF unplugged - exactly the same happens.

I’m now thinking that its the ECU which is on its way out  .

The same time the Fuel pump relay clicks on / off, as do both lambda sensors (they are fed from the fuel pump relay) and the front intake valve.

Another point to note is that the ECU light is on, but not lit up constantly - its flickering (fastish) but its not RPM dependent.

Anything else to try before I stick another ECU in? Besides matches?