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[Martin_1962]

One is jammed or frayed internally - managed to unjam and drove home OK.

Needs doing for next time I want to use the hand brake

[VXL V6]

Which part?

[RobG]

Which part?

Handbrake cable is one piece I thought :-/

[Andy H]

I changed mine years ago on my last Omega.

The worst part about it is getting access under the car. I imagine it is quite a straightforward job if you have access to a 4 post lift....

The other issues are:
1. The heat shields are in the way of the handbrake adjuster. The heat shields are held on by lots of nuts on 6mm studs welded to the underside of the car (10mm socket required). Spray lots of your favourite  penetrating oil on these several days before you try to remove them because they will shear off if forced.
2. The handbrake adjuster nut is just above the prop shaft and needs to be turned about 20 turns to remove it. If you use a ring spanner you can turn it 1/12th of a turn at a time which gets a little monotonous. Get a deep socket and some wobble bars so you can reach it with a ratchet handle and the task is almost pleasurable.........
3. Now would be a really good time to remove the handbrake shoes and clean/un-seize/lightly grease the handbrake operating arms 

[Martin_1962]

I changed mine years ago on my last Omega.

The worst part about it is getting access under the car. I imagine it is quite a straightforward job if you have access to a 4 post lift....

The other issues are:
1. The heat shields are in the way of the handbrake adjuster. The heat shields are held on by lots of nuts on 6mm studs welded to the underside of the car (10mm socket required). Spray lots of your favourite  penetrating oil on these several days before you try to remove them because they will shear off if forced.
2. The handbrake adjuster nut is just above the prop shaft and needs to be turned about 20 turns to remove it. If you use a ring spanner you can turn it 1/12th of a turn at a time which gets a little monotonous. Get a deep socket and some wobble bars so you can reach it with a ratchet handle and the task is almost pleasurable.........
3. Now would be a really good time to remove the handbrake shoes and clean/un-seize/lightly grease the handbrake operating arms 

Tempted to get the local mechanic near work to replace them as he has a lift.

Won't be touching the rear brakes as they are all new.

[Andy H]

I changed mine years ago on my last Omega.

The worst part about it is getting access under the car. I imagine it is quite a straightforward job if you have access to a 4 post lift....

The other issues are:
1. The heat shields are in the way of the handbrake adjuster. The heat shields are held on by lots of nuts on 6mm studs welded to the underside of the car (10mm socket required). Spray lots of your favourite  penetrating oil on these several days before you try to remove them because they will shear off if forced.
2. The handbrake adjuster nut is just above the prop shaft and needs to be turned about 20 turns to remove it. If you use a ring spanner you can turn it 1/12th of a turn at a time which gets a little monotonous. Get a deep socket and some wobble bars so you can reach it with a ratchet handle and the task is almost pleasurable.........
3. Now would be a really good time to remove the handbrake shoes and clean/un-seize/lightly grease the handbrake operating arms 

Tempted to get the local mechanic near work to replace them as he has a lift.

Won't be touching the rear brakes as they are all new.

Did you fit them yourself?

If not I would suspect seized handbrake operating arms as being just as likely as causing the brakes to stick on as the cable.....

[Martin_1962]

I changed mine years ago on my last Omega.

The worst part about it is getting access under the car. I imagine it is quite a straightforward job if you have access to a 4 post lift....

The other issues are:
1. The heat shields are in the way of the handbrake adjuster. The heat shields are held on by lots of nuts on 6mm studs welded to the underside of the car (10mm socket required). Spray lots of your favourite  penetrating oil on these several days before you try to remove them because they will shear off if forced.
2. The handbrake adjuster nut is just above the prop shaft and needs to be turned about 20 turns to remove it. If you use a ring spanner you can turn it 1/12th of a turn at a time which gets a little monotonous. Get a deep socket and some wobble bars so you can reach it with a ratchet handle and the task is almost pleasurable.........
3. Now would be a really good time to remove the handbrake shoes and clean/un-seize/lightly grease the handbrake operating arms 

Tempted to get the local mechanic near work to replace them as he has a lift.

Won't be touching the rear brakes as they are all new.

Did you fit them yourself?

If not I would suspect seized handbrake operating arms as being just as likely as causing the brakes to stick on as the cable.....

FItted them a couple of weeks before my operation.

Similar age to what my 2.0CD was when it snapped a cable