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[PaulW]

Going on from the pre-facelift/facelift alarm adaptation...

If the alarm goes off, regardless of key in ignition, is it a case of reseting it / reading the codes woth Tech2 to see whats what??

I can't for the life of me stop this damned thing sounding, key in ignition, doesn't turn off, lights keep going.

The car has 'no' powersounder connected, that got jibbed off ages ago.

*note*

The alarm only started going off when I plugged it into the car 'before' i did the wiring changes.  I locked the car, unlocked it and then it started to go off.

Before I locked the car, all was silent.  Now, its always on the second its connected up, regardless of locking/unlocking the car.

Ultrasonics are *not* connected (not got them yet) so pins 5, 7 and 12 from the control module are not connected.

[Kevin Wood]

I wonder if the unconnected lines are floating up and down and triggering the alarm. Not sure if these are simple inputs that can be tied to 12v or 0v to disable, or if there is signalling between the units.

Also, I wonder if the key in the ignition method of silencing requires the alarm unit to be paired with the immobiliser. :-/

Sounds like a Tech 2 on it would help to find out what's upsetting the alarm.

Kevin

[PaulW]

I wonder if the unconnected lines are floating up and down and triggering the alarm. Not sure if these are simple inputs that can be tied to 12v or 0v to disable, or if there is signalling between the units.

Also, I wonder if the key in the ignition method of silencing requires the alarm unit to be paired with the immobiliser. :-/

Sounds like a Tech 2 on it would help to find out what's upsetting the alarm.

Kevin

Thats what I was thinking, but word from the tech2 wizards in the other thread said no tech2ing would be needed...

The floaty wires are all taped up so not grounding or shorting anywhere...

[PaulW]

Pin 16 *is* different...

On the facelift, its CSR (Consumer Switch-off Time Delay Relay), yet pre-facelift its TKS (Door Contact Switch)

Pins 15 are the same (TKS/Door Contact Switch)...

 :-/

[Kevin Wood]

The floaty wires are all taped up so not grounding or shorting anywhere...

Ahh, but electrically they're floating (i.e. inputs not driven by anything). If, for example, they trigger the alarm when a "high" level is present and they don't have pull-downs inside the alarm ECU they could be triggering the alarm. I'd be inclined to get a test 2 or cheapo on it and read the codes. IIRC cheapo can read alarm codes.

I would say the time delay relay input  probably disables the voltage drop detection until the time delay relay has switched off the cigar lighter socket. This can probably be tied to either +12v or 0v - whatever state it's in when the relay is off.

Kevin

[PaulW]

True...  I'll give that side a check as soon as I can (well, when I get access to either a Tech2 or cheapo jobbie locally...)

I've gone through both wiring diagrams again...  Noted a few differences (now I'm reading them right...)

I made a bit of a booboo... Pin 4 on the 28-pin is an Ignition Voltage Input (black wire) this doesn't exist on the pre-facelift.  I foolishly linked it to pin 4 on the 12-pin, which is actually S92 (Boot Lock Switch), so was a ground signal and not ignition live.)

There is no Ignition Live input on the Pre-facelift (least not in the book of lies...)  So on that one, reckon I should hard-wire this into a +12v feed?

I've also tested the existing alarm with the sonics unplugged, that didn't exhibit the problem which I'm getting at present.   But I'll still look into that further if the Ignition Voltage on pin 4 makes no difference when hooked to a +12V source...

[PaulW]

Actually...

I could do with knowing the state of Pin 4 (black wire) frm the 28pin connector during ignition off, doors locked, and ignition on / engine running...

if someone with a facelift has some time spare to tinker with there's, and a multimeter of sorts

[Kevin Wood]

Pin 4 is definitely live with ignition switch on looking at the wiring diagrams - as are all most black colour coded wires.

.. and it looks like pin 16 comes from the input side of the consumer switch-off relay, so it is a trigger from all door switches that starts the consumer timer when the doors are opened. Should be pulled to 0v when door(s) are opened. I would imagine in this state it would sound the alarm, so it needs to be pulled up to 12v to prevent it being trigered.

Pin 15 on the facelift is only triggered by the driver's side door.

Ultrasonics on the Facelift appear to be connected to pins 8, 7 and 12.

..and pin 23 is a connection to the immobiliser - perhaps to disarm the alarm when the transponder is in range.

Kevin

[PaulW]

Cheers Kevin

So CSR then should be the same as TKS, which is the door closure switch on the pre-facelift, but 'could' be outputting a different signal, or is delayed as you say so so need to check into that one too... might just end up pulling 12v as you say to prevent it triggering...  I'll see what the signal is though when the doors are shut and when there open, just incase its sending something else!

I'll feed down an ignition live from somewhere for pin 4 too, either from the lighter socket or somewhere else...

Already fathomed out the ultrasonics though, have those 3 wires isolated at present, but pin 11 on the 12-way is connected (grounding signal for the sonics relay) as they are both the same on pre-face and facelift.  Just need the wiring from kickpanel up inc. sensors and im good with that one!

Pin 23 is same on the pre-facelift too, so signals should be the same.  If not, something else to look into...

[Kevin Wood]

Pin 23 is same on the pre-facelift too, so signals should be the same.  If not, something else to look into...

I'm wondering if this is a simple signal or coded, so that the immobiliser needs to be paired with the alarm in the same way as it does with the engine ECU. :-/

Kevin

[Marks DTM Calib]

Pin 23 is same on the pre-facelift too, so signals should be the same.  If not, something else to look into...

I'm wondering if this is a simple signal or coded, so that the immobiliser needs to be paired with the alarm in the same way as it does with the engine ECU. :-/

Kevin

Nope, already looked into that, the alarm and immobiliser ar not paired.