Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[johnnydog]

Its been a long time since Ive done it but have a vague memory of undoing a couple of screws to release the connector from the door ? 

Thanks Albs, but I've got photos of both sides (the A frame side with the aide of a mirror) but there's no sign of any screws at all....it's going to be tabs / twist action I'm sure, but access is so limited it's hard to figure it out...

[Doctor Gollum]

The door frame would include the A pillar. The plug location is barely possible to get a finger on, even with the glovebox and air vent/dash end removed. That's why I said dash out.

The plug in the door shell is what you are struggling with.

Removing the door and laying it down is the easiest way to strip out the guts for access as the car body gets in the way. Especially if you're right handed on the front left door because wrists simply don't bend the right way to get in there. It's perfectly straightforward and possible to remove the door without removing anything else. Removing the wing makes door removal a one person job.

I notice you went all shock and disgust in your second reaction to my answer presumably having not gotten the reaction you wanted to the first one.

[Doctor Gollum]

You make no mention of it, so I will try and credit you with having done it as part of the diagnostic process...

But just to be clear, have you swapped the switch with a known working one from another of your Omegas?

[johnnydog]

The door frame would include the A pillar. The plug location is barely possible to get a finger on, even with the glovebox and air vent/dash end removed. That's why I said dash out.

The plug in the door shell is what you are struggling with.

Removing the door and laying it down is the easiest way to strip out the guts for access as the car body gets in the way. Especially if you're right handed on the front left door because wrists simply don't bend the right way to get in there. It's perfectly straightforward and possible to remove the door without removing anything else. Removing the wing makes door removal a one person job.

I notice you went all shock and disgust in your second reaction to my answer presumably having not gotten the reaction you wanted to the first one.

The A pillar is the A pillar - the B pillar is the B pillar, and the door frame is just that - the frame of the door. Not wanting to nit pik, but if you had read my initial post properly, you wouldn't have felt the need to reply with unecssary methods to go about removing a connector block from the frame of the door. I hope you are not now trying to justify your somewhat riduliculous suggestions about removing the wing and the dash.....are you?
Whilst my terminology about the male and female aspects of the block connector may be open to interpretation, I feel my post was self explanatory and whilst you were offering your sixpen'th, which I expressed my gratitude for, you really did go unnecesarily over the top with your suggestions - with both feet first....

[johnnydog]

You make no mention of it, so I will try and credit you with having done it as part of the diagnostic process...

But just to be clear, have you swapped the switch with a known working one from another of your Omegas?

I appreciate you taking the time to query whether I had done the basic checks. Yes, I did try two other known good switches on the passenger door with no joy. I also tried another known good drivers door switch as that feeds the passenger side. Again, no joy.
I take it you read the point where I said that there was no live at the passenger switch plug when operated from the drivers door switch (with the ignition on) - just in case you missed that bit...

[cam.in.head]

silly question (probably)
although obviously the plug and socket do need cleaning anyway but have you checked for a live actually in the feed wire anyway (in the cable from the a post ) im sure i once had an issue where the symptoms were exactly as you have got .window didnt work from passenger door switch but i cannot remember where the issue actually was
i will have a look at the haynes wiring diag tonight to see if it jogs my memory

[johnnydog]

silly question (probably)
although obviously the plug and socket do need cleaning anyway but have you checked for a live actually in the feed wire anyway (in the cable from the a post ) im sure i once had an issue where the symptoms were exactly as you have got .window didnt work from passenger door switch but i cannot remember where the issue actually was
i will have a look at the haynes wiring diag tonight to see if it jogs my memory

Not a silly question Chris!
The Deoxit D5 arrived late today, so I thought I'd attempt cleaning the push in plug ( from the A pillar) first before testing it for a live feed. Hopefully a job for tomorrow.
A bit of a positive step forward though in how to remove the connector block from the door - I was fortunate to find local someone local to me with a brand new left hand front door loom if only to see how it is retained in position in the door. There are 3 very small tabs at 10, 2 and 6 o'clock that need depressing. It is withdrawn towards the front of the car, maybe needs a twist to fully release it, but I'll experiment with that tomorrow.
Whilst the loom is brand new, it isn't suitable as a replacement unforyunately as it's from a much earlier model of Omega (1994 ?), but at least it assisted to find out how the connector block is removed.
Access will still be poor, but it should at least be better to clean the terminal pins and removing the green pin corrosion...

[cam.in.head]

my haynes book doesnt seem to show the passenger  window switch ?
it shows the main switch on the drivers door and the 4 switches to the 4 doors .it shows the extra rear door switches but cannot see the offending item .
it must be there somewhere but my eyes xant find it !

[Doctor Gollum]

Haynes doesn't show facelift diagrams so no door window switches for the front doors... They're all on the centre console.

Also be mindful that the non facelift cars use different connectors for the door harnesses. The sheet metal is the same so how the harness attaches to the door and body should be broadly similar but don't be surprised if they are different.

[johnnydog]

A bit of a fiddle but managed to access the tabs inside the door securing the connector block. Made easier by removing the plate for the airbag crash sensor for light and mirror access to see what I was doing! Released the harness/ loom tabs for some slack and managed to withdraw the connector and turn it through 90° to clean it.
Dispite the green electrical corrosion, found one of the pins was so fragile, I could virtually blow on it and it would bend as it was corroded at its base.
So cleaning it wasn't going to do much good
Managed to clean the plug ok with the Deoxit D5 (really good stuff - thanks cam.in.head for recommending!)
So......has anyone got a good used front passenger (UK) door harness / loom - GM part no. 9146837 (Opel 6299287) ident . A2J  that they would be willing to sell ??
Has to be for electric memory seats according to EPC, for models Y100001 on, so Elites...
I'll put a post up in Wanted as well.
As an option, has anyone had any luck replacing single pins in a connector block like these (sorry, can't post a pic) - I have the brand new door loom that I acquired yesterday from an earlier Omega that could be cannibised if need be...?

[Doctor Gollum]

Something like the pin for clearing jet wash nozzles is pretty handy for depinning plugs/sockets, although dedicated tools are readily available.

Any standard face lift passenger door loom will do. The only thing you'll need to swap from your current loom is possibly the mirror wiring to the connector to preserve the memory function. The seats are irrelevant as EVERY facelift car has electric heated mirrors so it's only actually the mirror memory bit that matters, if it's important to you. And it's perhaps ten minutes work swapping the relevant wires from your existing loom to the replacement one. Categorically everything else will function just fine without mirror memory wired in. This may also apply to the preface lift loom you have acquired but be aware that the pins may not be the same size/shape... 100% the rears are different pre to post facelift.

Driver's door looms, for reference, DO differ according to the type of rear window fitted and there's zero difference between estate and saloon door looms.

[cam.in.head]

whilst were on the topic of door connectors i undid my passenger door connector and checked and its all nice and clean but the ddrivers side one wont turn .is it still anticlock to undo or the other way for that one ??

[Doctor Gollum]

whilst were on the topic of door connectors i undid my passenger door connector and checked and its all nice and clean but the ddrivers side one wont turn .is it still anticlock to undo or the other way for that one ??

Turn anticlockwise to undo, same both sides, but think there's a red tab on the collar that has to be freed first.

They're a positive latch to lock/unlock although the plug obviously connects without the collar being engaged.

Some thin adjustable grips might give you a mechanic advantage of it's being stubborn... Mini channel lock type...

[cam.in.head]

thanks .i assumed it was standard thread but it didnt want to move compared to the other side .