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[amba]

Last few weeks I have had a coolant leak and need to get to the bottom of it next week.

Symptoms:
Check level in morning and top up with mix.After driving around 2 miles stopping at motorway junction get a plume of steam rising from the n/side bonnet/wing.Continue driving and no further issues until stop at work .When I return to car after  several hours and drive home intermittent coolant warning level appears.Temp never goes beyond 95/97 (older gauge) and no other issues.When check coolant level at home after around 45 mins drive level is down by around half on the bottle markings.Very littel pressure is released when cap is oened to top up.

Now I understand that by pressurising the system the coolant has a higher temp tolerance and the best method to check for leaks is with a cold engine and pressure into the coolant bottle with a pump but as this seems to be only a partial lose of coolant should I fill the bottle to correct level before doing a pressure test or should it be adequate with this reduced level.I also assume it will become pretty obvious where the leak is coming from when the top is stripped down and pressure applied. 

[feeutfo]

The level in the bottle itself makes absolutely no difference, as such.

What's important is that coolant level is higher than the leak. By that I mean, if the coolant bottle was on the floor, it would fill completely. Therefor the air would rise to the highest point within the engine somewhere. That then becomes the level, u bends and air locks aside, if you see what I mean?

Provided the coolant is above the leak, the leak will show when pressureused. If its not it will just blow air out instead.


And btw, pressurising the coolant bottle isn't the only way. Depends what you have to hand, but it can be pressurised by breaking into the system at any point. For instance the coolant pipes to throttle body are very handy, if you have a foot pump with a football valve adapter for instance, the diameter happens to fit the throttle body pipes. Just block the other end obviously.

But given the year of your car, I'd look for core plug leak on the back of bank 2 cylinder head first off. Between dis and head. Awkward one.

[PLANETNZ]

Have a look at the heater valve at the back rh side of engine, further serch through this site has photos etc. Common problem

[amba]

Will strip it down in next day or so,weather permitting as it looks like monsoon season is back,and have a good look around with some pressure in the system.

Thanks for the tip about the throttle body pipes ,Chris. I was planning on doing it via the header tank but your option may be a bit easier.

Assuming worst case cenario and its a core plug,ia it possible to remove and replace with head in situ or is it "off with the head". Has also been suggested that it could be head gasket an the outter edge so only effecting the coolant but either issue is getting into the realms of viability on a 14 year old 200k motor.

Lets hope it is either a pipe/clip /hbv or possibly coolant bridge as those fixes are inexpensive and quite doable.

[feeutfo]

All those are possible too, Jimbob had a leaking coir plug for years(?) I believe. A stop leak might be an option, bars or similar. Or swap the head out if it bad. See how you go I guess.

Ps, I suppose re pressure testing, it's a case of matching the method to what you heave to hand. Mouth to water bottle and blow can work too, depends how long the leak takes to show, and how quick you turn blue.

[amba]

My thoughts on the "snake oil treatments " but was trying to resist going down that route if possible as have a nice un-polluted coolant system at present and having the heater matrix let go in January possibly as a result of a previous dose of "magic potion" few years back ,hoping to keep it free from poisons !

But with an engine at 200k might be the least of the 2 evils as my plan is to try and get another year out of the car that way it will recover the costs spent on wishbones/track rods last MOT and then think about its successor in 2013...naturally another Omega but unsure about F/L models now, and pre F/L are as old as mine.

Dry day and strip off plenum and have a good look..hope its simple fix 

[feeutfo]

Not snake oil IMO. Provided only one bottle is used. Although if there is a potential blockage already it may not be wise as you say. Let's hope it's hbv or a split pipe, as you say.