Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[PLANETNZ]

HI Guys
I have or should I say are having problems with the code 73 and an apparent MAF sensor fault but it seems nobody has come up with an actual reasonble solution to some of these faults and causes even though there has been a considerable amount of similar faults and questions asked here!.
Reading through here many members have all asked the same question(s) although none have really been answered with anything to solve this with that makes seance: for my own problems at least!
There are many posts where members have had the code 73 fault changed the MAF it has worked perfectly for a day - week then the same exact problem happens. Replacing MAF with both original or copy parts doesnt seem to make to much difference (although the original ones seem to be better)

My own problem to demonstrate: car ran fine until it was switched off on a steep incline, after re-starting min later ran like crap. The maf was disconnected and ran "OK" to get home. My first thought was oil from the incline had "blocked up" something
Various efforts to clean, check vac leaks, EGR (blocked off) recently cleaned and connections checked, voltage checked as well, normal air-filter not K&N, breathers etc.. nothing, a new one ordered and fitted fixed the problem for a day until the car cooled down and tried to be re-started...same problem!

So the original failed; without any (known) mechanical changes effecting it: MAF's also dont have any moving parts!. The new one was reconised by the ECU this  "fixed" the issue immediately, car ran brilliant!.

SO what has changed??  Replacing the MAF fixed the problem immediately, the ECU accepted the readings from the maf  so that suggests it is or was working fine. What is happening when the car is turned off??

There has to be a common theme between all these similar faults, someone must have solved this!

[TheBoy]

The trouble is, the code is only a clue, it doesn't tell you what is wrong.

In essenence, its just saying that the MAF reading conflicts with what the ECU thinks it should be, based on other sensor readings.

Before condemming the MAF, I'd be looking at its live data readings, the throttle readings and the trims.

[chrisgixer]

Maf sometimes comes up BEFORE a dodgy crank sensor code. Although usually with a hat full of other codes as well.

[PLANETNZ]

Cheers, i was more basing my comments on observations made with similar complaints. The one thing i have noticed with the new MAF fitted that would lead me to believe that the old one was slowly dieing possibly reporting greater airflow into the engine, running it rich.
I will be keeping an eye on the readings, especially the crank sensor now!

[TheBoy]

The 2.5/3.0 ones tend to be really reliable, but when they fail, they properly fail.

The 2.6/3.2 ones tend to be less reliable, and failure mode is a partial degradation, rather than complete failure. Usually, it under reads the amount of air going in, so you see the trims richening up the mixture.

[PLANETNZ]

Im thinking that ios what has happened to mine as the fuel figures have slowly been going up.  The thing I have found interesting though is the number of comments made when a new unit is fitted and "fails" after a couple of days and in some cases how a second hand one seems to work better; leading me to think that the figures returned from a new unit overload the ECU and it shuts down in a similar way to a dean MAF?.

[blue_dream]

Hi
   I have always found that when i disconnect the battery for a short period, say a day or two my mig goes back to learning its valves when i do reconnect battery  the car will always run rough on the first start up and the eml will be on, i then drive for say ten miles, stop and restart and everything back to normal and eml out, this always sorts out my maf but always use the correct item, so for me would be the BOSH item for the 25 v6, others makes will always use more petrol, i know, faulty mafs will make your mig stall which can be dangreus.

[PLANETNZ]

when i first replaced the original Maf the car ran brilliant, it was only after a couple of days later when i tries to start it in the morning that it went back to code 73 and having to unplug the MAF to get the bloody thing to run again. 
Im still wondering what actually changed overnight with the ECU readings to stop it running then; now that the new maf has proved itself working. I couldnt get the car to actually run without unpluging the maf so i could see what it was doing with the "black device that shall remain unnamed".
The use of a "copy" maf was based purely on price: $900nz (500pound) for a OEM Bosch as apposed to $70nz for the non genuine. Because these cars here are "odd-ball" here they are only worth $1500-2000k nz so it just wasnt economical and for $70 worth the shot.

[Andy H]

when i first replaced the original Maf the car ran brilliant, it was only after a couple of days later when i tries to start it in the morning that it went back to code 73 and having to unplug the MAF to get the bloody thing to run again. 
Im still wondering what actually changed overnight with the ECU readings to stop it running then; now that the new maf has proved itself working. I couldnt get the car to actually run without unpluging the maf so i could see what it was doing with the "black device that shall remain unnamed".
The use of a "copy" maf was based purely on price: $900nz (500pound) for a OEM Bosch as apposed to $70nz for the non genuine. Because these cars here are "odd-ball" here they are only worth $1500-2000k nz so it just wasnt economical and for $70 worth the shot.

How much?

Is this the same sensor that fits a Ford Transit van?

[biggriffin]

I had the maf code come up on the holibobs on the 3.2,came home put a new maf on,only to get the misfire code for both banks then come up,so changed plugs,and noticed coil pack 1,3,5 was fubared,so new coil pack,all's fine. Thought "lets check old maf" put old maf back on,no fault codes runs fine So it seems faulty coil pack/plugs can give a maf code fault.

[PLANETNZ]

when i first replaced the original Maf the car ran brilliant, it was only after a couple of days later when i tries to start it in the morning that it went back to code 73 and having to unplug the MAF to get the bloody thing to run again. 
Im still wondering what actually changed overnight with the ECU readings to stop it running then; now that the new maf has proved itself working. I couldnt get the car to actually run without unpluging the maf so i could see what it was doing with the "black device that shall remain unnamed".
The use of a "copy" maf was based purely on price: $900nz (500pound) for a OEM Bosch as apposed to $70nz for the non genuine. Because these cars here are "odd-ball" here they are only worth $1500-2000k nz so it just wasnt economical and for $70 worth the shot.

How much?

Is this the same sensor that fits a Ford Transit van?

Mate I know Transits back to front and no!:) You probably didnt see another post of mine a while ago, the dealer list price for  manifold gaskets here is $1100nz ( 550uk pound)  EACH!
So if you want to come over here and "bend over touch your toes" you are more than welcome!

Hey out of this are there any dealers here that would be interested in helping me sending UK cars back here?  To compare pricing have a look a : www.trademe.co.nz or www.autotrader.co.nz. Anything here German (apart from Opel,which is apparently made in England) possibly a bit extra $$