Given the limited access and difficulty in seeing what you are doing I used this approach and it worked first time albeith I had a stiff back for several days. 
Get a large peice of foam or old pillow and wrap it in couple of dust sheets or similar to make a decent kneeling mat.Put 1 on the front slam panel and the other ontop of the the engine,camcovers etc to foarm a soft area to kneel on and lean across.
Knee l on the slam panle and lean over as far as you can reach so you are directly above the back of the engine.Get a decent torch and a mirro on a shaft that way you should be able to see down the back of the engine.Make sure you have the correct bolts and the right size deep socket close to hand.You should then be able to wedge the mirror in such a position that allows you to see the 2 mounting holes.Carefully guide the transfer pipe into position and then fit the bottom bolt first into the hole in the pipe plate and line up with the hole in block.Gently get thread to start and then do the same on the top bolt .Once both have started to take thread get them as far in with the socket by hand as even less room for the ratchet,but I found by having the handle of the ratchet facing the ground and taking very small clicks on the ratchet you will eventually get it tight.Dont expect being able to torque it up as suggested in the Haynes book though.
Make very very certain that the "O" ring stays in place..I would suggest a liberal smear of grease in the ridge of the pipe and all over the seal to avoid it dropping whilst fitting as after you get it all back together you will have a major coolant leak and need to strip it down again .
Best of luck,it is fiddly 
Disaster! Having fully reassembled things and filled with water, I find I have a coolant leak at the back of the engine. I can't say I wasn't warned. I suppose the wretched O ring has fallen out. I did check its presence time and time again whenever I retried to get the screws in, but I guess it dropped out in my last attempt to get the screws in. Bother.