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[Webby the Bear]

Have now done pressure test on the car.Official Ford values are 0.75 bar at tickover and 1.5 bar at 2,000revs-both of these figures are minimum values.Actual test readings give just under 2 bar at tickover and just under 4 bar at 2,000 revs.So at present going with theory that fault is electrical as it seems that these cars suffered with issues in regard to the dash cluster.

Nice one baza.

Do ford give any maximum figures? Putting my college head on..... if the oil pressure is high then that COULD indicate there's a build up of crud in the galleries thus narrowing said gallery thus increasing oil pressure.

if it's within a certain spec then bang on mate 👍👍👍

One final question.... what sort of revs does it do at motorway speeds? 3.5k? If so can you replicate the fault at idle with the revs on? Or is it only at speed? If u can then would be great to see the pressure result at motorway revs 👍

[BazaJT]

Ford only specify the two rev ranges i.e tickover and 2,000 and only give the minimum reading acceptable,so obviously they're what I went with.She tells me that 70mph is somewhere in the 2,500 to 3,000rev range,as a quick check although without figures to compare to I did get her to take it up to 3,000 to note any strange behaviour on the part of the pressure,which did raise slightly over the 2,000rev figure but nothing wildly out of order and when revs decreased back to tickover pressure reading fell to and held steady at just under the 2 bar reading seen at start of process.Turns out sitting at roadside with car in neutral and revving the nuts off it produces no flickering of the light[she could have told me that earlier So only happens when on the move but gets worse when braking hard!

[Kevin Wood]

The connection with braking makes me think it's down to the level in the sump. Maybe a fracture in the pickup pipe that starts sucking air when it's uncovered?

Braking is going to make the oil slosh about, and at high speed, there will be more oil distributed around the engine, and the flow rate will be higher as it gets slung out of the bearings quicker so the level will be a little lower.

Can you extend the pipe to the gauge so that it can be located by the windscreen? They you can keep an eye on it when driving...

[BazaJT]

I think it would be awkward to extend gauge pipe,but obviously do-able.As she's off away for a week from tomorrow I've told her that although I'm now of the belief that it's an electrical issue when she comes back I'll drop the sump/oil pan[?] and have a look see at the pick up pipe,clean the strainer etc.and in the mean time she should take it steady and stick with the 60-65 range where the light stays off.I must be mad the Omega has sat since last November awaiting repair and I just can't be bothered,yet someone else comes up with a problem and I'm there getting stuck in trying to solve it

[al brown]

Yep, cluster corrodes on the back face, mind showed up as an abs/handbrake fault.
Remove the cluster, take a photo of the position of all the needles, they just pull off and aren't keyed. Then disassemble the cluster to gain access to the circuit board. Clean the corroded pins and stick some electrical lacquer over it (nail varnish at a push). Resemble and refit.
Al

[BazaJT]

Thanks for that info AB,I'll pass that onto her[she used to build/repair computers so should be able to sort her way round doing that] I wasn't sure they could be fixed or how.

[al brown]

Doesn't take long, as soon as she gets the cluster stripped down to the circuit board she should be able to see where the green crud is on the board. It causes bad earth's between circuits, ours only showed up over 40 mph when the abs light would come on but logged no fault code and abs would still work even with the light on. That was 4 years ago and it's been fine since I fixed it.
Just make sure she knows where to put the needles back on, like I said they aren't keyed, just a push fit. Don't want to get the speedo wrong!

[BazaJT]

I'll tell her and double stress the point to make sure she takes photos beforehand,then it's down to her if she mucks it up!One slight mix up we had was me telling her to try revving it while parked at the kerb and see if the light still flickered,when I did pressure test she said no light which I took to mean that she'd tried it while parked and it hadn't happened.In actual fact she meant that while doing pressure test the light didn't illuminate at all.Must admit I thought that with pressure sensor out and disconnected the light would be on all the time,but I know nothing of electrics so maybe that's the way it's set up.