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[moggy]

Hi all in oofland,i know this may have been asked before so bear with me.Both my fobs stopped working,so i sent them to martin imber.He did what he could one was fuber and the other needed a switch,i have got them back but they still don't work.If i buy some secondhand ones,how do i code it to the car.They are the i/r type as the car is from 1995,any info would be most grateful.Dean.

[omegod]

I've got about 20 fobs here, depending on the answers you get give me a shout 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

On the usual 'early' fobs, you simply place key in ignition, turn to position 2, and then press the lock button, this re-syncs the fob. Yours is the earliest type, being infrared, I am totally unaware if this will work or not on your system. Try it, then maybe have a play see if maybe pointing at the receiver (that black dome next to the sunroof control) does anything. 

[Doctor Gollum]

You never know, there might even be something in the owners manual 

[moggy]

You never know, there might even be something in the owners manual 

Piss off DG,i would not know where to start.LOL.

[Doctor Gollum]

You never know, there might even be something in the owners manual 

Piss off DG,i would not know where to start.LOL.

Page 1

[moggy]

You never know, there might even be something in the owners manual 

Piss off DG,i would not know where to start.LOL.

Page 1

Thanks poo face,but which page does it cure my problem.LOL.

[Andy B]

On the usual 'early' fobs, you simply place key in ignition, turn to position 2, and then press the lock button, this re-syncs the fob. ......

That will only re-sync a previously already coded key ...... you need Tech II (or equivalent) to code a key to a car in the first place.

[Chazza12]

the ir led that work with the fob are 5mm 150nw only. replace the infer red led with this type only. the chip can be removed from one fob to another. the pass code for the fob has to be set to the alarm/central locking. faults with the fob are Ir snaps at the base, button fail for central locking. also capacitor can fail. there are 2 types one built into the key and unit that fits to the key ring.  reprogram key ignition number 2, fob removed from key and press until doors lock and unlock then turn key back to 0 and press fob lock unlock. immobilizer red led will light to confirm its on. then put a window down and hold down on key fob button till window closes and locks. all setup now. batterys usually needs changing 2 times a year.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

On the usual 'early' fobs, you simply place key in ignition, turn to position 2, and then press the lock button, this re-syncs the fob. ......

That will only re-sync a previously already coded key ...... you need Tech II (or equivalent) to code a key to a car in the first place.

I just assumed that the fob that had been 'Imbered' had simply had the switches replaced, thereby requiring a simple re-sync. 

[moggy]

On the usual 'early' fobs, you simply place key in ignition, turn to position 2, and then press the lock button, this re-syncs the fob. ......

That will only re-sync a previously already coded key ...... you need Tech II (or equivalent) to code a key to a car in the first place.

I just assumed that the fob that had been 'Imbered' had simply had the switches replaced, thereby requiring a simple re-sync. 

Thats right,one fob was furberd.But he changed the switch on the other so maybe i just need to re sync the fob.Dean.

[TheBoy]

Just for info, a Tech2 *cannot* do the CL/ATWS or Immobiliser on the IR type systems.  Tech2 is technically for post 1997 cars, but can do most systems on all Omegas, due to the fact they were still fitted in 1997.

The exclusions are:
U25DT engine (2.5TD without MAF, controlled by DDE 2.0) - Tech1
IR Locking/ATWS - Tech1
IR immobiliser - not diagnosable I believe, if it is, Tech1
Early 2.0l petrols - Tech1


Tech1/Tech1a need the Omega card and a multiplexor to work on an Omega.