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[dcjg85]

Thanks zirk, I am pretty confident all belts looked intact and the last time the car was driven was by me as a funeral car. The car then sat un-driven until going to the mechanic. Therefore based on your comment I am guessing I was probably misled, lesson learnt on that one.

As zirk said above, if the camshaft timing belt had snapped resulting in bent valves then you'd know about it.
Might be worth checking the engine number to see was it really changed?

And if it was my replacement engine, I would want to see that a new timing belt, guides, tensioner and coolant pump had been fitted. And ideally also the cam cover seals replaced and the oil breathers decrudded before installation.

Where is the engine number located on the engine? I assume to check this, the engine number will also be on the V5?

Many Thanks

[dave the builder]

In no way am i sticking up for "the mechanic"
BUT
we don't know the whole story yet ,
if the car has sat for a long time AFTER it had last been driven, 
then, had been turned over when frozen (yes, some people don't replace antifreeze ) or a seized tensioner etc that could take the belt out ,
but I fully agree , checking the engine number would be a very wise move 
also agree that, at the very least , the belt should be new ,
(not all mechanics replace tensioners unless they show signs of wear )
I'm not a fan of un-known replacement engines
I think you should strip the old one, then ,if it is u/s (major damage) think about another engine as a last resort
but as it has been replaced (to be confirmed) and running , sounds like it just needs a few jobs finishing off .

[dcjg85]

In no way am i sticking up for "the mechanic"
BUT
we don't know the whole story yet ,
if the car has sat for a long time AFTER it had last been driven, 
then, had been turned over when frozen (yes, some people don't replace antifreeze ) or a seized tensioner etc that could take the belt out ,
but I fully agree , checking the engine number would be a very wise move 
also agree that, at the very least , the belt should be new ,
(not all mechanics replace tensioners unless they show signs of wear )
I'm not a fan of un-known replacement engines
I think you should strip the old one, then ,if it is u/s (major damage) think about another engine as a last resort
but as it has been replaced (to be confirmed) and running , sounds like it just needs a few jobs finishing off .

The car sat for the best part of 18 months untouched due to bigger issues at the time. When we finally sold his house, I attempted to start the car but with no success. It was then low loaded to the mechanic who informed me that the valves were bent and based on the value of the car, it would be cheaper to buy a used engine rather than replace all the damaged parts. I paid for the replacement engine and the car was returned to me around a month ago. In retrospect I probably shouldn't have agreed to the engine swap but he assured me it would cost ££££s to replace the valves etc and a replacement engine was the way to go.  Im in no way blaming the mechanic, I just don't have enough knowledge to know what the next steps are to getting her finished.

I am also interested to see if this is the same engine or otherwise?!

The car is running, and this morning I have taken the plenum off, trying to find the coolant temperature sensor(s) to see if these have been connected properly as I think this is the cause of the EML and perhaps the reason the radiator fans aren't kicking in?

[dave the builder]

the ECU coolant temperature sensor (2 wire plug) brings the fans on constantly when un-plugged on most vauxhalls of the era,
very common for them to fail, read wrong , cheap £10 part
the single wire brass sensor is just for the dash temp on most vaux of the era

[dcjg85]

the ECU coolant temperature sensor (2 wire plug) brings the fans on constantly when un-plugged on most vauxhalls of the era,
very common for them to fail, read wrong , cheap £10 part
the single wire brass sensor is just for the dash temp on most vaux of the era

Thanks Dave, if I could get the connector of the coolant temperate sensor, I would be laughing...its always the small things that prove difficult... 

[Andy B]

the ECU coolant temperature sensor (2 wire plug) brings the fans on constantly when un-plugged on most vauxhalls of the era,
very common for them to fail, read wrong , cheap £10 part
the single wire brass sensor is just for the dash temp on most vaux of the era

Thanks Dave, if I could get the connector of the coolant temperate sensor, I would be laughing...its always the small things that prove difficult... 

It should just slide off. The blue wire to it has a female spade connector on it, the temp sensor terminal looks more like a drawing pin & the spade connector slides on.

[dave the builder]

It should just slide off. The blue wire to it has a female spade connector on it, the temp sensor terminal looks more like a drawing pin & the spade connector slides on.

that is the single wire item that sends the dash the tempreture
the ecu coolant tempreture sensor is the oblong plug with 2 wires
looks like this (but get the one to match your engine y26se is the 2.6  )
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-ASTRA-CAVALIER-VECTRA-OMEGA-WATER-TEMP-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-NEW/311977460416?hash=item48a34e42c0:g:l0EAAOSwxCxT6e68

[Enceladus]

Where is the engine number located on the engine? I assume to check this, the engine number will also be on the V5?
Many Thanks

The V5 will have the original engine number as at time of registration or last reported change of engine.
I believe your're supposed to notify the DVLA of an engine replacement and the new number. My guess is that does not always happen.

The number should be stamped into a machined flat on the nearside rear of the engine block adjacent to the oil filter. At least it was on 2.5 and 3.0. So nice and easy to check. Might be covered in crud and not immediately obvious. As yours is a later 2.6 the number begins Y26XE followed by a string of (is it six or eight?) digits.

[Doctor Gollum]

Fans can seize, do make sure that they spin freely

Also they are switched via temp switches in the radiator with an ecu override if ecu temp sensor reads hot or aircon is switched on

Haynes wiring diagrams will give you an idea of how they work

[dcjg85]

Thanks all, coolant temperature sensor is now in place...

I will have a look at the radiator fans today and see if I can work out whats going on, when the air con is on currently, they still don't kick in.

[deviator]

It looks like you are sorted, but I'm more than happy to help.