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[Nick W]

Real progress; bearing, hub and flange installed. Thanks for all tips. Next task is to tighten the nut to 300Nm. Good ideas welcome, I am workin on the floor.

Do it up as tight as standard 1/2" impact gun will manage.


Do the final torquing with a torque wrench. Which is fiddly, but doable

[polilara]

OK, I even try, not too much space there..., thanks anyway!

[polilara]

So, my torque tool is up to 210Nm. The nut is in that tightness now, any idea how many degrees needed more. Hard to find 300 Nm tool.

[Nick W]

So, my torque tool is up to 210Nm. The nut is in that tightness now, any idea how many degrees needed more. Hard to find 300 Nm tool.

Not hard to find, just expensive. Can you borrow one from somewhere?

[biggriffin]

So, my torque tool is up to 210Nm. The nut is in that tightness now, any idea how many degrees needed more. Hard to find 300 Nm tool.

As nick says, bang up with windy gun then
1/2 bar and do it up to FT,  I've not had one come loose.


If you want to torque it up, most truck company have torque wrench go that high

[polilara]

Have to look around to borrow and check price, too. Not needed too often I think.

[polilara]

So I bought the tool, 59 Euro, now in 300 Nm. I have difficulties to install the locking plate, destroyed two now. When I put it in with hammer and pin it becomes loose. Is it really necessary to install it at all? My idea is to just throw it away. Do all of you all always put it there? Honest answers please.

[polilara]

Any comments? Is e locking plate a must?

[Nick W]

I've never been convinced that a soft, stamped sheetmetal part is going to do anything to 'lock' a screw fastener tightened to 300NM. I've left off tabbed and spring washers and never lost a part. The last RWB I changed didn't get the plate either.

[polilara]

Thanks, that helped a lot. I have the same opinion.