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Author Topic: Camber Guage  (Read 1712 times)

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Chris_H

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Re: Camber Guage
« Reply #15 on: 20 June 2009, 17:46:17 »

How about a protractor and spirit marker?
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Kevin Wood

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Re: Camber Guage
« Reply #16 on: 20 June 2009, 18:44:05 »

Quote
Quote
You can measure camber just as accurately with a spirit level IMHO and yes, you need to do it on a level floor or zero the gauge against the surface you are on.

Cheap spirit level with a couple of holes tapped into it and 2 bolts does the job just as well.

Kevin
 

This guage is calibrated in one degree increment and decrement.
How do you accurately calibrate with a bubble between two lines and no calibration markings ?

With about the same accuracy, as I said...

Just because it will display to n decimal places it doesn't mean that's the accuracy you are achieving, especially when considering the effects of not having dead level ground, which you can do nothing about with either solution. 1 degree shifts the bubble in a spirit level quite a way too.

If you need to get it spot on, you need to go to a decent depot. Something that you can adjust on a DIY basis will reduce the amount of tread you use getting there after a wishbone change, or allow you to experiment with the settings once you have a feel for how your garage floor affects the readings.

Kevin
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Turk

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Re: Camber Guage
« Reply #17 on: 20 June 2009, 19:03:49 »

Oh definately. For a proper job it has to be a full geo. This would be used for when I change the springs for the up-graded std ride height jobbies I'm gonna have made at Faulkner's http://www.dfaulknersprings.co.uk/
There's a trip to WIM after, but that's around 200 miles from me, so I'll need to get things reasonably accurate.
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Kevin Wood

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Re: Camber Guage
« Reply #18 on: 20 June 2009, 20:25:08 »

In that case, I'd try the spirit level method. Wind a couple of screws into the spirit level at the correct spacing so that they sit on the wheel rims. Set them to read level on a level surface and then screw the top screw out to give you the desired camber.

Amount to screw out = distance between screws * Tan (camber angle).

.02 gives you about 1.15 degrees, which is about where you need to aim for.

So, if your 2 screws end up 40cm apart you need to turn the top screw out by about400 x .02 = 8.5mm then adjust for a level indication when offered up to the wheel.

Toe is the setting that's a pain to get right.

Kevin

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