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[cdx25]

Took my 'meega down to get all the geometry checked out and discovered that the rear toe-in is out (if you see what I mean!) but the adjuster bars are siezed.  £60 a side for new ones so Im going to see if I can unseize them.  

Looks like the best way will be to split the ball joint and remove the entire tie-rod bar to the bench before working on it in the vice with heat/penetrating oil etc.  Just wondered if anyone had encountered this before and found a good way of sorting the problem?

Cheers

Jon

[Marks DTM Calib]

Lots of heat is the trick....much easier with it in the vice.

Measure the length first and then seperate all the pats and re-grease well with copper slip before re-assembling to the same length.

[TheBoy]

regular wd40 squirts on my rear track rods seems to keep Tony @ WIM happy....

[Tony H]

Plus -gas is really good stuff for penetrating seized parts

[Matchless]

The threaded ends insert about 2-3 inch into the rods its easy to see how they seize if they are assembled without grease.
Remove the complete tie rod and clamp the centre section in a vice.
Free off one lock nut, lube the thread then re-tighten so that it just touches...this will be your guide to keep the length about correct.
Now heat the sleeve part with a blowlamp, you will probably need lots of heat, use a good fitting spanner or stilsons to try turning the rod. Once it moves, check that the lock nut stays in place then completely remove the rod. Wire brush the threads and throughly grease the sleeve internal threads then screw the rod back in to just touch the lock nut as before. If the threads are still tight, unscrew again, re-clean and re-grease.
Repeat on the other end.
Try to stop the heat getting to the ball joint or bush by wrapping in a damp cloth.
Replace the rod and tighten the locknuts.
Your alignment guy will now be very happy.

Same procedure applies to the front track rods, but you have to count the number of turns as you unscrew the ends on these.

[ians]

Matchless/Mark,

Is this the kind of thing you use?

http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/item.php/sn/TAYTC2000N

Cheers
Ian

[Matchless]

Matchless/Mark,

Is this the kind of thing you use?

http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/item.php/sn/TAYTC2000N

Cheers
Ian

That should be OK. Could also try Wilkinsons if you have one for cheap Taymar blowlamp or B&Q which have a selection including better quality propane torches if you intend to do any plumbing etc in the future.

[cdx25]

Cheers guys for all the comments/suggestions.  Job done  

It was a %£^%£%$ of a job though - the threads were well and truly rusted into the bores.   Couldnt have possibly done that without removing the bar to the bench to get it in the vice.  Lots of heat, wire brushing, penetrating oil and patience was the order of the day!   Threads needed a good cleanup in the bench wire wheel - didnt have a tap and die that fitted that thread size/pitch which was no surprise...  

But threads and nuts run smoothly now all the way with plenty of copaslip.  Back to the geometry place to get it set up now...

One thought - are the rear toe / camber settings standard to the range?  Wonder if it is worth posting them in here?  Ive only got the -99 Haynes for the values but Im guessing that my 99- facelift is the same.  Hopefully the geometry place have the right settings on their system.

Jon

[cdx25]

The threaded ends insert about 2-3 inch into the rods its easy to see how they seize if they are assembled without grease.
Remove the complete tie rod and clamp the centre section in a vice.
Free off one lock nut, lube the thread then re-tighten so that it just touches...this will be your guide to keep the length about correct.
Now heat the sleeve part with a blowlamp, you will probably need lots of heat, use a good fitting spanner or stilsons to try turning the rod. Once it moves, check that the lock nut stays in place then completely remove the rod. Wire brush the threads and throughly grease the sleeve internal threads then screw the rod back in to just touch the lock nut as before. If the threads are still tight, unscrew again, re-clean and re-grease.
Repeat on the other end.
Try to stop the heat getting to the ball joint or bush by wrapping in a damp cloth.
Replace the rod and tighten the locknuts.
Your alignment guy will now be very happy.

Same procedure applies to the front track rods, but you have to count the number of turns as you unscrew the ends on these.

Great description.... basis for a How-To?  I should have taken photos...  

[Paul M]

Digging up an old thread here, but it looks like I'm going to be following the same procedure took mine in to get the alignment done and was told the rears are well out, but adjusters are seized. The guy didn't fancy heating them on the car due to the proximity to the fuel tank, so basically he advised me to remove them and free them off in a vice and grease them up with coppaslip before taking the car back in.

What's involved in removing these rods? Do I need a ball joint splitter or similar? Trying to anticipate any unwanted suprises before I start.

Cheers.

[Craig_Rogers]

That is an old common problem, however, a good garage should be able to free them.

Usually, they just heat them up with a welding gun, that free's them........

I'd take it somewhere else........

Last time I had mine done they were seized and they freed them and was all included in the price.  £50 for a 4 wheel geo setup.