Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[mazza7282]

According to my the chap I brought this from, he had it done at 85K, the car is now on 236k, its been kept well, with regular services etc, but I remember walking into vauxhall a few years back and there being a bid poster on the wall saying to do the cambelt on the 1.8 and 2.0 ecotec engines every 30.000.

I know mine is due one, but is it like WELL overdue and should I stop driving it just in case ? I'm probably going to have the waterpump done at the same time as the pullies etc.

Also, the front tyres on this car have badly worn on the innner edge, yet the middle and the rest of it is fine, I know this is a common problem, my service book says its been doing it since 20.000.

My mate had a R plate V6 and his was always doing it, and now mines doing it, was it a design fault? why didnt they change it on the facelift, and more to the point is there anything I can do about it ?

[feeutfo]

welcome to the forum.
you need to check your wishbone bushes for slop. They are rubber so they do move but there should be no loose play. You can change the wishbone or press new bushes in. Tbh they are bound to be buggered by now. With that rectified check your steering idler for play and springs for breakages you can then get your car booked into wheels in motion in Chesham for a full Geometry check, basically your camber setting is out and the wheel is running with too much lean, its wearing the tyre edges.
You need a set up operator who knows the omega,
many a member has had a set up that is within limits of oe settings from vx. These settings/tolerances are so wide as to be useless. Wim know the mig and will give members a sub. Worth a search

Ps.4 pot owners will be along for belt info. Oh hang on your profile says a v6? Cam belt and aux belt is 40k on v6, it was changed from 80k after tensioner pulleys failed, change the water pump as well as its run by the cam belt and if it fails can take the hole lot out. Use cam locking tools, rent from autovaux.
hope helps.

[tunnie]

I am assuming you have a v6 looking at you profile info?

Its 4 years or 40k which ever is first, make sure you do the cambelt kit with tensioners too

[v6coop]

change the water pump as well as its run by the cam belt and if it fails can take the hole lot out. Use cam locking tools, rent from autovaux.

Water pump is not run off the cambelt on the V6. May be wise to do it if it has a high mileage as it would be a shame to have to go in later, but not an issue with it failing and taking the belt and bending the valves

[jonathanh]

if your time is cheap and you don't mind doing things twice, all I would do is examine the water pump - if the bearing is smooth and no visible leaks i wouldn't change it.  does'nt seem much point spending pennies without any need.  I'd only do this with a v6 - 4 pot would get changed

[tunnie]

if your time is cheap and you don't mind doing things twice, all I would do is examine the water pump - if the bearing is smooth and no visible leaks i wouldn't change it.  does'nt seem much point spending pennies without any need.  I'd only do this with a v6 - 4 pot would get changed

I personally would change it, the are just £30/40... and since the engine is stripped down that far, might as well.

Sods law it will fail at the most inconvenient of times.

My advice - change water pump when the cambelt is due.

[TheBoy]

Cambelt - yes, change belt and tensioners. Must use a GM V6 locking/timing kit. Anyone who claims they can do without is misguided.

A v6 waterpump is £20 - £30, and add the cost of antifreeze. Worth doing seeing as you've stripped car that far, and is a good excuse to fully empty coolant and replace.

Tyre wear, common on Omega, needs full geometry check (not money wasting 4 wheel alignment type adjustments).  Wheels-InMotion, a member here, is recommended, is in South Bucks, and charges £70.50 if you mention OOF!  See www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk

[mazza7282]

Hey

Thanks a lot, OMG mine like seriously needs doing then , ill get that done ASAP !!!

I've found someone who said they could do it for me, so I guess I might get it done

and yea i got a v6 so 40k, kk

[lpgelite]

For straight replacement - new GM wishbones £25 a side. It's not worth the aggro of changing just the bushes at that price...

http://www.vauxcentre.co.uk/index.php?option=Prod_detail&product_id=485975&image_id=190941

Alternatively you can swap the front horizontal pivot bushes for heavy duty BMW E34 upper control arm type bush which reduces the tendency for the front wheels to toe out under braking. This corrects most of the design fault that causes the inside edges to shred.

You also need to adjust out most of the negative camber on the front wheels to reduce the uneven tyre wear. This can be done by slackening the two bolts where the shock absorber attaches to the stub axle assembly and pulling outwards at the top of the wheel. You need the gap between the tyre and shock absorber to be as equal as possible when comparing both sides of the car. You can buy eccentric bolts off eBay to make this easier.

It's not a text book way of doing the job, but you can't really do much worse than Vauxhall. The amount of negative camber needs to be just perceptible when viewed by eye which will equate to approx 30 seconds off vertical. Adjusting the camber angle will alter the tracking, which needs to be re-set to approx 0.9mm toe in.

No reason why you can't do this with sticks and string if you're careful, however a professional geometry check is money well spent, providing you've addressed the wishbones and any worn ball joints first!

Try a search for wishbone bushes on this forum - it's well documented!