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Author Topic: Update on fault codes  (Read 2421 times)

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JamesV6CDX

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Update on fault codes
« on: 26 August 2008, 12:15:14 »
Since Kev attacked my EGR with some cleaning solvent, the EGR fault code has gone.

I've cleared the codes and done a few runs, and the only codes I get now, are

16
38

(Lambda one incorrect voltage / open circuit).

Maybe a duff o2 sensor too?
I was considering swapping them over, and seeing if the fault code goes to the other side...
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #1 on: 26 August 2008, 12:23:52 »
Well 16 is a drivers side knock sensor error......which is not good.

I would concentrate on this one first so check the knock sensor cable is not trapped or damaged any where.
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #2 on: 26 August 2008, 12:33:19 »
Quote
Well 16 is a drivers side knock sensor error......which is not good.

I would concentrate on this one first so check the knock sensor cable is not trapped or damaged any where.

Bloody hell so it is, I thought it was the open circuit code.
I'll go sit in the corner :(

Knock sensor - is that accessible from underneith? I can't really recall...
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #3 on: 26 August 2008, 12:41:21 »
No, its an alternator off job to get at (easy enough).

Seen them get damaged and trapped by poorly fitted alternators and aux belt tensioners.
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #4 on: 26 August 2008, 12:46:52 »
I routed the wire myself when I did the aux belt tensioner, I recall taking extra care not to trap it.

If I find a damaged wire can I repair with solder/heatshrink, or do I need to replace the complete sensor?



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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #5 on: 26 August 2008, 12:55:35 »
Quote
I routed the wire myself when I did the aux belt tensioner, I recall taking extra care not to trap it.

If I find a damaged wire can I repair with solder/heatshrink, or do I need to replace the complete sensor?




Normaly possible to repair them!  :y
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TheBoy

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #6 on: 26 August 2008, 13:57:24 »
JamesV6CDX, yes possible to repair. Its a coax type cable, try to keep it like this for shielding :y
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #7 on: 26 August 2008, 14:58:47 »
Just had a peek. There were no nicks in the wire - it's just broken clean off ;D

Can't get to the other half of the wire though, so may be an alternator off job anyhow. I'll try the aux belt tensioner first and see if I can get access then...
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #8 on: 26 August 2008, 15:03:06 »
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Just had a peek. There were no nicks in the wire - it's just broken clean off ;D

Can't get to the other half of the wire though, so may be an alternator off job anyhow. I'll try the aux belt tensioner first and see if I can get access then...


Forget it, take the alternator off......its as easy to do as removing the aux tensioner anyway.
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trebor

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #9 on: 26 August 2008, 23:57:16 »
All I needed to do was take out top bolt and loosen lower bolt and swung the alternator out of the way.  Good access to the sensor this way
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Bionic

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #10 on: 27 August 2008, 05:08:52 »
The good news is if you are stuck you can repair the cable on the knock sensor! I rejoined the chafed cable, soldered it and then sealed it with shrinkseal tube which I had put onto the cable prior to joining it. I did and it is still working to this day
Remenber to re-route the cable if it is likely to catch again.
Ray
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feeutfo

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #11 on: 27 August 2008, 18:56:23 »
just as easy? Alternator easy? I must have been doing something seriously wrong with my old cdx then. I found it a complete pig? Problem being the nuts on the back of the long bolts where not captive, and access the back was restricted to say the least. What was i doing wrong?
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #12 on: 27 August 2008, 19:46:03 »
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just as easy? Alternator easy? I must have been doing something seriously wrong with my old cdx then. I found it a complete pig? Problem being the nuts on the back of the long bolts where not captive, and access the back was restricted to say the least. What was i doing wrong?

Dont know, did one in 45 minutes the other day for a forum member and we had to fight to get the aux belt off because the alternator had not been fitted correctly!
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feeutfo

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Re: Update on fault codes
« Reply #13 on: 27 August 2008, 20:22:26 »
Quote
Quote
just as easy? Alternator easy? I must have been doing something seriously wrong with my old cdx then. I found it a complete pig? Problem being the nuts on the back of the long bolts where not captive, and access the back was restricted to say the least. What was i doing wrong?

Dont know, did one in 45 minutes the other day for a forum member and we had to fight to get the aux belt off because the alternator had not been fitted correctly!
Yes i saw that thread, when i did myn, i was under the carwith it on stands, doing the nuts from the back with my arm just fitting through the chasis parts and a mate at the front doing the bolts with the intakes removed. Got the bottom one out, and tilted the alternator to get at the top one. I must have fat arms.
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