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chrisdb

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Help please
« on: 11 September 2008, 18:48:03 »

Hi everyone

I'm in the middle of changing my exhaust manifold gasket (driver's side) and I have 2 questions.

1. The Haynes manual says to "Unscrew the union nuts securing the oil cooler pipes to the cylinder block..." But where are these pipes? I have undone the nuts from the top. Do I have to get under the car? :-[

2. If I jack up the front of the car I can't see any suitable place to put the axle stand as the jack is already there.

Would be really grateful for help & advice 'cos I prefer spiders and snakes to getting under cars!

Thanks
Chris  
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Dazzler

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Re: Help please
« Reply #1 on: 11 September 2008, 18:51:25 »

You need to move the oil cooler pipes out of the way in order to remove the coolant transfer pipe.
I un did my pipes from by the oil filter and from the oil cooler ;)
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TheBoy

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Re: Help please
« Reply #2 on: 11 September 2008, 18:51:53 »

oil cooler pipes go near oil filter.

Jack up, axle stand under chassis rail
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ians

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Re: Help please
« Reply #3 on: 11 September 2008, 18:53:15 »

Jack on the strong bit just inboard from where the notch is for the car jack.  Then axle stand under the longitudinal rail (I use bits of old carpet to minimise damage to the underseal.)
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chrisdb

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Re: Help please
« Reply #4 on: 11 September 2008, 18:55:24 »

Thanks guys, that's great
 :)
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chrisdb

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Re: Help please
« Reply #5 on: 11 September 2008, 19:16:57 »

I think I'm defeated now. I had a look and can see one of the pipes near the filter but I can't see any way to get my hand in there. The filter is the fixed type and that is restricting the space quite a bit.

Maybe I'll look again in the morning. :(
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Dazzler

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Re: Help please
« Reply #6 on: 11 September 2008, 19:28:14 »

You need to remove the oil filter, and if the cartridge type then you will need to remove the housing as well, its a big 12mm bolt IIRC
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JamesV6CDX

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Re: Help please
« Reply #7 on: 11 September 2008, 19:37:05 »

I managed to get my transfer pipe out of the way without having to touch the oil cooler pipes  :-/
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Help please
« Reply #8 on: 11 September 2008, 19:48:54 »

No need to touch the oil cooler pipes, its a squeeze but you can get to the coolant transfer pipe bolt without....
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chrisdb

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Re: Help please
« Reply #9 on: 11 September 2008, 19:53:48 »

Thanks. I've had a good look and I will go for it without removing the cooler pipes (especially now the jack's left some big indents in the tarmac!)

I'll let you know how I get on tomorrow.
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chrisdb

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Re: Help please
« Reply #10 on: 12 September 2008, 00:00:36 »

One other thing I noticed is that next to the oil filter and to the right there is some sort of sensor and it looks like oil is leaking from there. Does anyone know what this sensor is?
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chrisdb

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Re: Help please
« Reply #11 on: 12 September 2008, 09:16:49 »

Stuck again now!

Which bolt do I need to remove to get the coolant pipe out of the back of the engine? I looked on the EPC diagram and it only shows 1 bolt, but on my pipe there seem to be two. And it seems impossible to get a socket or spanner on either one, even if the oil pipes are removed :(
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lpgelite

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Re: Help please
« Reply #12 on: 12 September 2008, 09:43:53 »

Sensor by the oil filter is Crankshaft sensor.

Unusual for oil to leak from sensor itself - usually oil runs down from cam cover or is left overs from filter when last removed.

I think the two coolant pipe bolts are male torx type.

IIRC I used small 8mm combination spanner or quarter inch drive socket, but can't remember if oil pipes were on or off at the time.

Take great care not to round the fins off the bolt heads or you really will be stuck...



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chrisdb

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Re: Help please
« Reply #13 on: 12 September 2008, 09:48:29 »

Quote
Sensor by the oil filter is Crankshaft sensor.

Unusual for oil to leak from sensor itself - usually oil runs down from cam cover or is left overs from filter when last removed.

I think the two coolant pipe bolts are male torx type.

IIRC I used small 8mm combination spanner or quarter inch drive socket, but can't remember if oil pipes were on or off at the time.

Take great care not to round the fins off the bolt heads or you really will be stuck...



Thanks very much. I recently replaced the cam cover gaskets so this oil may be left over from that leak. I'll clean it and see if it stays dry.

I've got out the first bolt now with an 8mm spanner so just going to tackle the next. Now I know I've got the right bolts I'm much happier.

Thanks
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chrisdb

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Re: Help please
« Reply #14 on: 16 September 2008, 09:02:38 »

Just a quick update for you. Thanks for all your help, I'm all finished now. It was much easier than I expected getting everything back again. The only real problem I had was with connecting the manifold to the cat pipe but got there in the end. It was easier to remove the manifold studs before connecting the cat pipe, but once this connection was done everything just glided back into place :)

One thing that occurred to me though, was, the first time round I inserted all the manifold studs and then put on tthe gasket and manifold. When I found that I could not get the front pipe onto the manifold studs would it have been easy to just onbolt the front pipe at the coupling? I didn't do this at the time bacsue I thought it might have been secured with exhaust paste - but now, reading the haynes manual it does not imply that this would be the nprmal case...

On the MPG front, I noted the following:-

I drove from Chesterfield to Swindon which is 153 miles. It is 4 miles to the M1 from my house and I reset the mpg counter as soon as I got on the m-way, and put it on cruise as 75mph. I should say, that I have a new speedo and it is exactly accurate according to the sat-nav, whereas my last speedo showed 3-5mph over.

The mpg settled at around 36. After about 8 miles there is a 6 mile section of roadworks at 50mph, so I set the cruise to 50. By the end of this stretch the mpg was at 40.2.

I got bored on crusie so drove the car from that point between 75-85 but I tended to back off back to 75 when I realised the speed had crept up. When I got off the M5 the mpg was 39.8. I had an uphill stetch on a single carridge way for about 2 miles and after this the mpg had dropped to 38.3. After about 20 minutes along country lanes stuck behind cars doing 40 I got to my destination with 38.1 showing.

Over the next couple of days I drove around Swindon (about 10 miles worth) and the mpg dropped to 35.2, then 33.6 :(

I drove back home yesterday in the same style as before and starting from 33.6 managed to get it back to 37.4 when I reached home.

I don't know how significant this is but I hade the vehicle geometry set up by a company called Wheels In Motion in Chesham. They used a Haykeye machine. There is one adjustment (I don't remember which) that they set differently to the manufacturers spec because they say the setting is improved, so possible that this makes a big difference to ecconomy. Have just noticed though that front wheels are scubbed on insides... going back next week for them to check.

Cheers
Chris
« Last Edit: 16 September 2008, 12:04:10 by chrisdb »
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