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[Jan Suhr]

On my 2001 2.2L Omega I have got a problem with my automatic gearbox.

When it gets warm, after about ten minutes of driving, it stops shifting. From a standing still it hesitates when shifting from 1st to 2nd and after that it goes in to emergency mode and is locked in 3rd gear.

When the car is cooled down it works normally again until it gets warm.

At the same time something goes wrong in the electrical system. ABS and Airbag warning lights come on and all instruments dies. In idle they go back to normal and after a while they stop acting up and works noraml. After a 100 km drive in this condition I discovered that my battery was cooked after getting 18V for a long time.

Now I just did a test and when the gearbox acts up the system voltage goes up to 18V. Unfortunenatelly it fried my diagnosticbox .

So my suspicion is that the solenoid for 1st to 2nd in the gearbox is shortening and creating this electrical problem.

It is time to change the fluid in the box. I will do that next but will that solve the solenoid problem? (I hope it will )

Thanks


Jan

[Marks DTM Calib]

Alternator fault and the gearbox is tripping as a result.

The solenoid is not able to increase the alternator voltage.

[Jan Suhr]

Alternator fault and the gearbox is tripping as a result.

The solenoid is not able to increase the alternator voltage.

Are you saying that the alternator causes the gearbox to miss the shift?

Is it a high load on the electrical system at that point. I imagine that the solenoid will draw a lot of juice when doing the shift.

Can you elaborate on your opinion?

I did change the alternator just a few months ago. It was a rebuilt one. And I could need some arguments if I need to replace the recently changed one.

Thanks


Jan

[Marks DTM Calib]

Alternator fault and the gearbox is tripping as a result.

The solenoid is not able to increase the alternator voltage.

Are you saying that the alternator causes the gearbox to miss the shift?

Is it a high load on the electrical system at that point. I imagine that the solenoid will draw a lot of juice when doing the shift.

Can you elaborate on your opinion?

I did change the alternator just a few months ago. It was a rebuilt one. And I could need some arguments if I need to replace the recently changed one.

Thanks


Jan

The solenoid wont present a particularly high load to the alternator when operating and the ECU drive electronics wont allow this to happen either.

And under no circumstances should an alternator regulator exceed 14.2 v (ish).

In fact, if you were to put a high load onto an alternator it should result in a low output.

[Jan Suhr]

OK, but what is the relation between the gearbox and the alternator when this happen.

When it misses the shift from 1st to 2nd the electrical problem shows and stays as long as the gearbox is misbehaving.


Thanks


Jan

[Kevin Wood]

The gearbox is going into limp mode because of the high voltage (in addition to the ABS/TC by the sound of it). Not the other way around.

The regulator in the alternator controls the supply voltage and nothing else. 18v is far too high and indicates a faulty alternator. Take it back to where you got it, tell them you measured 18 volts and ask them to test it.

Kevin

[Jan Suhr]

Well,

To be more clear, it seems like the high voltage comes after the gearbox problem.

The first thing that happens is that it will shift to second with a clonk noise then it goes in to limp mode. After that the highvoltage shows.

But I will check the alternator and see if it is faulty.

Thanks

Jan

[mantahatch]

If in any doubt put a voltmeter accross the battery, any more than about 14.5volts max is overcharging.

You can try turning on all electrical devices, heated seats heated rear window headlights etc. to try to use the excess power but ultimatly I suspect the others are very correct that the alternator is broken.

[Jan Suhr]

If in any doubt put a voltmeter accross the battery, any more than about 14.5volts max is overcharging.

You can try turning on all electrical devices, heated seats heated rear window headlights etc. to try to use the excess power but ultimatly I suspect the others are very correct that the alternator is broken.

Yes it is overcharging with about 16-18 Volts but only after the aforementioned gearchange clonk. So why is this triggered, it seem sto me that the gearbox is the one that sets the alternator to overcharge.

The order of events are
1 gearbox clonk  when shifting to 2nd
2 limpmode
3 overcharge

This makes me doubtful that the alternator is faulty. I suspect that something triggers the alternator to overcharge.

Thanks

Jan

[sassanach]

what part of "your alternator is fubared"do you have difficulty with.

[KillerWatt]

Yes it is overcharging with about 16-18 Volts but only after the aforementioned gearchange clonk. So why is this triggered, it seem sto me that the gearbox is the one that sets the alternator to overcharge.

The rectifier & regulator are integral to the alternator, there is NOTHING outside of the alternator that can cause the regulator to start throwing a hissy fit and result in an overcharge.

Your alternator, or more precisely, the regulator is shagged.

Although the rate of overcharge in your case is only somewhere between 2-4V, that is more than enough to upset the vehicle electronics.
I would address that problem sooner rather than later if I were you.

[MutantCav]

Its very easy to replace the regulator and bushes (the parts that go wrong in the alternator) yourself...just buy new regulator from Vaux and swap it over...

Recently my alternator gave way (the bushes snapped) and when it did, ABS/TC lights came on, radio reception became practically non existant, lost power steering, eventually battery died and car wouldnt start...but then I assume it was undercharging due to no bushes...yours is overcharging so as said will be the regulator at fault...replace it yourself or if its under warranty get them to do it

Out of interest, what makes you think the overcharging happens after the rest...the gearbox clunks so you get out and check the voltage and its 18v??

[mantahatch]

OK I may be clutching at straws here but if the alternator is not overcharging before the gearbox clunks. Could we be looking at a faulty/dirty earth connection somewhere.

Sorry I am to old to call it a 0v connection.

[Jan Suhr]

UPDATE:

I got a new (rebuilt) alternator since the old one was only three months old.

Put it in and everything works as normal.

Sorry for my stubbornes with this but the chain of events made me doubtfull.

Thanks for all advices. This is a great place for us DIY Omegaowners.


Jan