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[I_want_an_Omega]

Hi,

Is there a guide anywhere that explains how the immobiliser works in conjunction with keys, and the car security code.

My main car (98 V6 CD) only has one remote key, whereas my donor car (98 V6 CDX) has two remote keys. I have the immobiliser code for the CDX but not the CD.

Ideally I'd like to hav two remote keys working on the CD but am at a loss as to know where to start.

I don't want to go as far as swapping all the locks over. Would it be a whole lot easier to get a key key from Vauxhall?

Comments appreciated.

Regards ........... Robert

[Dave DND]

Its not as simple as changing the locks over, as the keys are probably coded to an ECU somewhere and this would also have to be transplanted, assuming its compatable.

You will need to get the CARPASS from Vauxhall along with the relavent code numbers to get a new key programmed, and my personal opinion is that this is probably the easier (not sure financially) way to go.

Others may have some better experience of this than me though.

 :-/

[I_want_an_Omega]

Thanks - my local dealer tells me that its £22 for the car pass and then £57 for the mechanical part of the key - on the assumption that I could re - use my push buttons. These are all plus any re-programming costs.

As I've got another complete car with 2 keys, fobs, immobiliser, ECU etc I'm tempted to swap the lot over - but suspect that this may be easier said than done.

 :-/

[Kevin Wood]

I would just get a second key blade (just the blade!) cut for the CD, order the car pass and get one of us with a Tech 2 to pair the bits you have to the car.

Kevin

[Dave DND]

Thanks - my local dealer tells me that its £22 for the car pass and then £57 for the mechanical part of the key - on the assumption that I could re - use my push buttons. These are all plus any re-programming costs.

As I've got another complete car with 2 keys, fobs, immobiliser, ECU etc I'm tempted to swap the lot over - but suspect that this may be easier said than done.

 :-/

ECU and locks are easy to swap if the same, but I`d have a close look into whats involved in changing the steering lock/barrell over first !

You will need a very sharp drill and a steady hand for the sheer bolts - its not often as easy as people think

[Andy H]

Many years ago some scrote broke the tilting steering column on my Astra trying to remove the krook-lock. They had already destroyed both door locks and the plastics around the steering column but presumably gave up when the steering wheel flopped down onto the drivers seat.

I was able to undo the shear bolts using a centre punch to gently tap the remains of the bolt heads anticlockwise. Much less grief than trying to drill out a hard steel bolt in a soft alloy lock body.

[I_want_an_Omega]

Couldn't I swap the whole steering column over? The steering wheel on the CDX is "cleaner" than on the CD, plus, the wheel on the CD isn't straight. By that I mean that when the wheel is straight the car goes to the left.

When the wheels are straight ahead (and the steering idler arm straight) then the wheel is about 5 degrees out.

That way I get the ignition key swapped and the wheel straightened all at the same time.

I know how to swap the engine ECU over, but is there an immobiliser to swap at all?

The off centre wheel then goes back onto the CDX prior to its trip to the scrap yard.

Thanks .......... Robert

[Dave DND]

Couldn't I swap the whole steering column over? The steering wheel on the CDX is "cleaner" than on the CD, plus, the wheel on the CD isn't straight. By that I mean that when the wheel is straight the car goes to the left.

When the wheels are straight ahead (and the steering idler arm straight) then the wheel is about 5 degrees out.

That way I get the ignition key swapped and the wheel straightened all at the same time.

I know how to swap the engine ECU over, but is there an immobiliser to swap at all?

The off centre wheel then goes back onto the CDX prior to its trip to the scrap yard.

Thanks .......... Robert

 

Thats a very drastic way of adjusting the
 tracking

 

[I_want_an_Omega]

I think the tracking is ok as the steering idler is straight when the steering wheel isn't.

I think the wheel has been off and not put back on straight.

It would make swapping the igntion key easy though wouldn't it!

[Andy B]

......
It would make swapping the igntion key easy though wouldn't it!

not as easy as Kevin said ...... use a Tech II at a meet.

[Kevin Wood]

Key blanks are a fiver IIRC. Get someone to cut it (I bought a new key cut from a dealer for around £30).

The electronics can be sorted cheaply with a tech 2, as said, if you get the car pass.

Could swap ECUs and save getting the car pass and Tech 2 work done, I suppose, but you'd need to swap Engine, Immobiliser and Central locking / Anti Theft ECUs over, assuming they are the same between the two cars, and assuming internal config is the same.

Note that the physical key blade can be separated from the transponder and the remote so not even worth thinking about going to the hassle of swapping the locks over.

Kevin

[I_want_an_Omega]

Thanks - so, where would I get a key blank from for £5!

Dealer wont sell me a car pass until i get the full doc back from DVLA - said something about the Police. Only got the car a week ago, so will have to wait a bit longer.

This is all a new world to me 

[Kevin Wood]

I lied. They were a tenner from the OOF shop, but now sold out. 

Plenty on Ebay around £5-£10 or visit your local locksmith. As I say, the dealers will also cut them for you, or you can wait until you have a car pass and order them based on key number.

Beware some have transponder chip fitted, some don't (those from a dealer do, those from Ebay vary).

Kevin

[I_want_an_Omega]

Thanks Kev