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[jharv]

Try removing the radio and see if it makes a difference

 :-?

Is it the original radio?

I know nothing about you cars history but I would be looking for either a poor aftermarket radio install or caravan wiring (particular warning signs being: sticky tape, twisted together wires and Scotchblocks).

Unlikely for an aftermarket radio to develop this kind of fault - bad wiring / incorrect installation would be shown up when fitted

Not uncommon for OEM radio to do this - On other Vx models, Astra Vectra etc, fault is often caused by knackered Beesting aerial that is full of water and staying on

 

The radio is the original Vx one with CD autochanger.
I have taken out the radio but has no effect on the problem.
I did consider the radio as a possibility as my grandson posted various coins into it and I had to remove the radio & covers to remove the coins. The radio since has recently often gone off & on whilst driving (seems to loose power and then regains it again immediately) but could be down to more coins being posted. Anyway if removed it cannot be the cause of the problem.
The car does have tow bar wiring but this was installed soon after being bought back in 1998 (2 owners from new). All the electrics at the 2 sockets exhibit expected behaviour so unlikely that this is the cause.

[jharv]

I would try removing the power sounder too. They have both a permanent and switched feed to them, in close proximity, and in a position prone to getting shorted by crud from leaking batteries.

When the engine is running-on can it be stopped by switching on a heavy load in the ignition circuit? I.E. heated seats, front cigar lighter, etc?

Kevin

I will have a look at the power sounder.
Not sure about the heavy load since I am now running the car almost all of the time with fuse 14 removed. Bizzarly, if I turn on a heated seat control (no F14), the PAS sometimes starts to work & continues so even when the seat heater is turned off. All these items (Seat heaters, PAS etc should be not working with F14 removed, but I am guessing that enough power is leaking into the circuit fed by F14 from some other device (or wiring loom fault) to enable the appropriate relay controls to operate.

[jharv]

I would try removing the power sounder too. They have both a permanent and switched feed to them, in close proximity, and in a position prone to getting shorted by crud from leaking batteries.

When the engine is running-on can it be stopped by switching on a heavy load in the ignition circuit? I.E. heated seats, front cigar lighter, etc?

Kevin

I will have a look at the power sounder.
Not sure about the heavy load since I am now running the car almost all of the time with fuse 14 removed. Bizzarly, if I turn on a heated seat control (no F14), the PAS sometimes starts to work & continues so even when the seat heater is turned off. All these items (Seat heaters, PAS etc should be not working with F14 removed, but I am guessing that enough power is leaking into the circuit fed by F14 from some other device (or wiring loom fault) to enable the appropriate relay controls to operate.

Thankyou everyone for the comments.
The heavy load had no effect.
I have now found the fault, this was not the power sounder but the Anti Theft Warning Sounder under the RH scuttle. When this was disconnected normal service was resumed.

[Andy H]

Thankyou everyone for the comments.
The heavy load had no effect.
I have now found the fault, this was not the power sounder but the Anti Theft Warning Sounder under the RH scuttle. When this was disconnected normal service was resumed.

aren't those just different names for the same device?  :-/

[jharv]

Thankyou everyone for the comments.
The heavy load had no effect.
I have now found the fault, this was not the power sounder but the Anti Theft Warning Sounder under the RH scuttle. When this was disconnected normal service was resumed.

aren't those just different names for the same device?  :-/

Not according to the Haynes manual from the electric wiring diagram for circuit 957, and associated description Ch12- Sect 22.6 & 22.4. The former is H47 the Anti theft alarm horn and fed by the 30A power feed FV5 (mounted either under the scuttle or under the LH wing), the later H24 the Warning horn (under the scuttle - RH side) and fed from F14.

[Entwood]

Anti theft alarm is the "normal" alarm you get if you, for example, leave a window open, lock the car, and wave your arm inside ... 

Power sounder alarm is the one with the self contained batteries that will go off if Mr Scrote disconnects the battery to stop the first one (anti Theft Alarm) going off.

One is just a horn .. the other is a horn with batteries ... 

[Andy H]

Thankyou everyone for the comments.
The heavy load had no effect.
I have now found the fault, this was not the power sounder but the Anti Theft Warning Sounder under the RH scuttle. When this was disconnected normal service was resumed.

aren't those just different names for the same device?  :-/

Not according to the Haynes manual from the electric wiring diagram for circuit 957, and associated description Ch12- Sect 22.6 & 22.4. The former is H47 the Anti theft alarm horn and fed by the 30A power feed FV5 (mounted either under the scuttle or under the LH wing), the later H24 the Warning horn (under the scuttle - RH side) and fed from F14.

So they both have a live feed. I suppose it makes sense that anti theft alarms should be difficult to turn off but I am a bit supprised that the simple horn has a live feed, I assumed it was powered from the alarm module (but only when the alarm went off).

[Entwood]

I think it is "triggered" by a low power signal from the alarm module .. but "powered" by the live feed.  Most horns actually need a fair amount of energy (highish current) to make any sort of decent noise.  I doubt the Alarm ECU could handle that sort of currrent

Willing to be told I'm wrong mind ... I get used to it !!!!!! 

[mikeomega]

Just came across this website, and glad i did! I had the same problem and my car has been sitting outside for 3 months  ,... didn't want to get ripped off!. I took the panel off as described, and the alarm sounder had melted and all the wires were shorting. Cut the wires back to good, taped up,.... and.... the bloody car works. Wahay :-) Can 't believe it, cheers! 

[Entwood]

Glad we could help .. and

"Hello" and Welcome .. 

[PhilRich]

Just came across this website, and glad i did! I had the same problem and my car has been sitting outside for 3 months  ,... didn't want to get ripped off!. I took the panel off as described, and the alarm sounder had melted and all the wires were shorting. Cut the wires back to good, taped up,.... and.... the bloody car works. Wahay :-) Can 't believe it, cheers! 

Hello & welcome from me too Mike .