Reading Fault Codes 2.0 2000

[TheBoy]

Errr, I thought you said it ran OK on petrol?


Reset the codes, reset the trims, and run purely on petrol for a tank, and see whats what then.

[OpelJay]

I have 2 problems I will clear the codes then run on only fuel

[bob24]

I have an M reg 1995 2000 X20SE 8 valve
I've done the paper clip test once so dont consider myself an expert but:
If you look up P 1690 it gives -  "Telltale (Check Light) Voltage High"
That to me could mean the battery is not stabalising the electrical systems voltage.
Changing the battery probably has solved it but:
I know a bit about electrics so:
It is a duff battery as you suspected or
You will get the same result if the connecting terminals to  the battery are not making good contact or are in a bad way. That is they have gone high resistance.
1.) I'd clean until shiny the insides of the connecting clamps. Use emery or sand paper wrapped around a bit of dowel.

If they are clean then with battery disconnected:
2.) check the earthed lead is well connected to the car chassis and has not come lose. Or the point of contact hasn't gone rusty. If so clean it up, greese it and re-connect firmly.
If not that then:
3.) Check for high resistance from the chassis to the battery terminal. It should of course be near to zero ohms. Say 1 ohm or there abouts. If it's high change the lead.
If not that then:
4.) Check for a high resistance from the fuse box to the other battery terminal. Again about 1 ohm max.

I thought if you left the battery disconnected for about 5 mins the fault codes re-set themselves?
If after all this you are still getting the light up I'd re-run the paper clip test and perhaps post the results?
Hope this helps.
Bob.

[TheBoy]

I have an M reg 1995 2000 X20SE 8 valve
I've done the paper clip test once so dont consider myself an expert but:
If you look up P 1690 it gives -  "Telltale (Check Light) Voltage High"
That to me could mean the battery is not stabalising the electrical systems voltage.
Changing the battery probably has solved it but:
I know a bit about electrics so:
It is a duff battery as you suspected or
You will get the same result if the connecting terminals to  the battery are not making good contact or are in a bad way. That is they have gone high resistance.
1.) I'd clean until shiny the insides of the connecting clamps. Use emery or sand paper wrapped around a bit of dowel.

If they are clean then with battery disconnected:
2.) check the earthed lead is well connected to the car chassis and has not come lose. Or the point of contact hasn't gone rusty. If so clean it up, greese it and re-connect firmly.
If not that then:
3.) Check for high resistance from the chassis to the battery terminal. It should of course be near to zero ohms. Say 1 ohm or there abouts. If it's high change the lead.
If not that then:
4.) Check for a high resistance from the fuse box to the other battery terminal. Again about 1 ohm max.

I thought if you left the battery disconnected for about 5 mins the fault codes re-set themselves?
If after all this you are still getting the light up I'd re-run the paper clip test and perhaps post the results?
Hope this helps.
Bob.

1690 can be ignored. Just ensure the battery is charging correctly.

1690 is often caused by someone removing EML bulb (or it blowing) at some point.

[OpelJay]

yes telltail is one of the codes i get i did have a faulty battery but has now been replaced with a new battery ive been told the only way to get the codes off is to basicly go up the garage and clear the fault so perhaps if i get them cleared monday ill run it only on petrol for a bit then see what codes get throwed up the run on gas and see what extra codes come up?? thanks for your feed back guys its much appreciated

[OpelJay]

Garages are a joke in germany they want 20 - 25 euros just to clear the faults so ive placed a bid on ebay for the stuff to do it my self i also went to replace the engine temp sensor for the ecu after grafting to get it off and lose half me water soon to realise i was sent out the wrong sensor lol also ive been told the problem with it on petrol could be the air mass meter?   

[OpelJay]

ok some good news some bad... the gas problem has been fixed after it was a broken vacuum after fixing and clearing the codes car runs fine on the gas -lpg... however although the car seems to be alot better the revs do stay up still sometimes its ok sometimes its not for example driving along at 3000 revs put the clutch in and it stays there or goes up a bit more seems very strange any idea's please?