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[ffcgary1]

Did you use new dis pac and leads when you replaced them or were they used, as you might have installed faulty parts., check the plug holes for oil as the cam cover gaskets might have failed and the missfire is caused by that.
Gary.

[kluku5]

Yes, I replaced DIS pack, plugs and leads, cam cover gaskets all new. Plug wells were quite oily, but I suppose because of old gaskets

Cheers anyway

[kluku5]

Well now..

Took it to a garage, they managed to fix it eventually, so I finally passed MOT. There seemed to be a problem with plug leads. They told me that I had connected everything correctly, however, after they played with the leads for a while, they got it working great.

But,
As I drove it today, I noticed that it doesen't have the power it used to. Also at about 5500 rpm and about 80-100 km/h the power suddenly drops alot, kind of reminds me like the clutch would be slipping. It's an auto. Anyone have an idea what could it be?

[kluku5]

Update:

I think I might as well push my car off a cliff. The engine just died on an out of town road when I braked, so I managed to pull over. When trying to start the engine, the car does nothing. The starter wont even turn. I thought it may be the starter, but that wouldn't explain why it just died while driving. I tested the gearbox too before it died, I put it in 1st, then 2nd, and at 4500 rpm it hits a wall, and while briefly keeping that momentum, the engine light lit up, then I immediatly let go of the throttle. Then I put it in 3rd, then D. But it didn't want change to 4th, but kept it in 3rd. Then engine died etc. When slowly raising speed, it does go over 4500 rpm, but when trying to kickdown, a wall comes at 4500 rpm.

Also now have these fault codes:
73   Mass Air Flow Sensor Voltage Low
88   A/C Cutoff Relay Voltage High

So if anyone can make sense of that post and has an idea about whats wrong then Please do help

[kluku5]

Ask myself answer myself lol

I found out that it didn't turn over because the starter motor got stuck. We hit it a couple of times with a hammer, tried to start and voila Can I just lube it or do I have to find a replacement one?

After doing some research here on OOF, I believe it to be crank sensor. Someone had posted in another topic that a MAF fault code can mean an almost broken crank sensor, plus my car only runs for some seconds, then goes really rough and dies eventually. And I only got to 5000rpm, then got back to 4500 rpm, pedal to the floor, so I guess that is also causing the no power problem. On top of that I discovered that one cam cover is leaking oil again :S.

[kluku5]

Update!

Changed the stat (ain't that a bitch to do lol) and crank sensor.

Still can't hit the limiter, and runs very poor, won't idle at all. Did the paperclip tests and got the following:
13   O2 Sensor 1 Open Circuit
31   No Engine RPM Signal (usual I know)
73   Mass Air Flow Sensor Voltage Low
89   O2 Sensor 2 Open Circuit

Searched OOF but couldn't find an answer, so can anyone suggest if I need to replace lamba or could something else be the fault now?

[dbug]

Unplug the MAF mate and try it then.  If its better you need a replacement maf (don't try and clean it - it usually completely kills it)

[kluku5]

Tried it. The EML light comes on when it's disconnected, but since the engine runs so poorly, I couldn't tell if it's better or worse

I also failed to mention before, that exhaust smoke comes from under the plenum somewhere, A LOT when revving and then letting up the throttle. So I thought that probably exhaust manifold(s) is/are leaking somewhere, and because of that the lambda doesen't work corrrectly. At least someone in another topic here said something along those lines.

[kluku5]

To keep you updated:

I ordered a used bosch MAF today for 20€ just to try with a different one, since I don't know anyone that has the same MAF on their car.
I hope it comes tomorrow, but considering my luck it probably arrives on Monday

[Marks DTM Calib]

Check you have connecetd all the vac pipes up e.g. engine breathers, brake servo pipe etc as MAF voltage low can also be triggered by an air leak which will also cause poor idling. Check also the idle valve is seated correctly.

Oh and when the garage checked the leads, its probable that they were wrongly connected to the DIS as the connection order is not obvious!

[Webby the Bear]

Tried it. The EML light comes on when it's disconnected, but since the engine runs so poorly, I couldn't tell if it's better or worse

I also failed to mention before, that exhaust smoke comes from under the plenum somewhere, A LOT when revving and then letting up the throttle. So I thought that probably exhaust manifold(s) is/are leaking somewhere, and because of that the lambda doesen't work corrrectly. At least someone in another topic here said something along those lines.

As I found out the other day, an exhaust manifold/EGR leak will cause it to sound like a tank and surging idle. if you can smell and see exhaust smoke I say track that down first 

[kluku5]

Yes exactly what I thought when I found this: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90499.0

Will check them tomorrow.

Actually, now if I recall it, they found one loose vac pipe at the garage. I also knew of a loose one, but I never found where it should go. But they found a small piece of plastic somewhere (most of it broken off). They glued the vac pipe there. And the small idle jumping I had before was gone, perfect idle. But also, when the car ran fine in autumn, I never had power issues. It seems to have appeared after doing the DIS pack. It is very possible that maybe I pulled something apart by accident

Tried it. The EML light comes on when it's disconnected, but since the engine runs so poorly, I couldn't tell if it's better or worse

I also failed to mention before, that exhaust smoke comes from under the plenum somewhere, A LOT when revving and then letting up the throttle. So I thought that probably exhaust manifold(s) is/are leaking somewhere, and because of that the lambda doesen't work corrrectly. At least someone in another topic here said something along those lines.

As I found out the other day, an exhaust manifold/EGR leak will cause it to sound like a tank and surging idle. if you can smell and see exhaust smoke I say track that down first 

Oh dear god, how in the world can i squeeze in to check exhaust manifolds lol It definitely smelled like exhaust gas.

Anyway, I'll update this topic tomorrow if i get the vac pipes done.

[Webby the Bear]

Well, and credit goes to Martin42 for this....... fit a piece of tissue to the end of a long thing (magnet, ratchet extension etc) and put it down near the manifold. when the tissue starts flapping you've found your leak 

very lucky for me mine was the small EGR pipe.

[kluku5]

Cheers

I wish it was tomorrow already

[kluku5]

Bad news.

I checked the vac pipes, all was fine and correct.

When I got the engine running to check exhaust manifolds, there was a faint knock-like sound in the engine, like it always is, when it has not ran for a couple of days. However, it has always disapeared when the engine got warm. This time instead I heard a couple of louder knocks, upon which I instantly let up the throttle and engine died. Couldn't start it again. I'm thinking I need to do a pressure test on the cylinders. What should the pressure be? Any other thoughts on what could've gone wrong, or what would I need to do next?

I'm pretty sure if there was a cliff near me I would push that load of crap (and headache) off of it