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Please play nicely.  No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....

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Author Topic: Omega on a dyno  (Read 3659 times)

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Webby the Bear

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #15 on: 27 September 2014, 21:21:24 »

Ok, let's start with a list of things to check with power loss . . .

Repair any exhaust leaks. Have a slight one.
Multiram vac leak
Vac leaks in intake manifold
Scanner - trouble codes
Exhaust blockage - CAT performace with live data. Infrared thermometer (outlet to be hotter than inlet)
Clean air filter
Fuel pressure and fuel regulator
Fuel filter change (can i blow through old one easily?)
Engine timing correct . . . This will be spot on I know
MAF output on scan tool
Oil in plug wells
Compression test
Coil pack failed
Leads
Plugs

So, humouring me. . . . It's one of these right? wot else?
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henryd

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #16 on: 27 September 2014, 21:49:16 »

Dyno'ing an Auto is always a waste of time.  I'll save you a few quid......

Think of a number of horses you would like your car to have,
Halve it,
Ta Da!!!!!!  ;D

 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Ooooooook! lol

The reason I ask.

The car has definitely improved. And yesterday took it for a blast and wow thought it was a new motor. Drove it todayand it seems fast in some places and not so in others. But I know it's not tangible to keep coming on here saying ''I think its down on power''.

I'm considering lending it to TB to see what he thinks........  :-X ;D

Stop pissing about Webby,just stick a 3.0 donkey in and be done with it :D ;)
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cem_devecioglu

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #17 on: 28 September 2014, 00:01:58 »

Webby, I have tested auto omegas on dynos ,mine and friends.. dynos cant measure them properly ..
a stock 14 year old 2.5 auto can be measured easily above 200 hp :o ;D ;D ;D which is not correct..




dont waste your money and time.. and remember if you modify it, autobox will eat most of the power increase  :-\


« Last Edit: 28 September 2014, 00:03:33 by cem »
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chrisgixer

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #18 on: 28 September 2014, 00:25:11 »

Ok, let's start with a list of things to check with power loss . . .

Repair any exhaust leaks. Have a slight one.
Multiram vac leak
Vac leaks in intake manifold
Scanner - trouble codes
Exhaust blockage - CAT performace with live data. Infrared thermometer (outlet to be hotter than inlet)
Clean air filter
Fuel pressure and fuel regulator
Fuel filter change (can i blow through old one easily?)
Engine timing correct . . . This will be spot on I know
MAF output on scan tool
Oil in plug wells
Compression test
Coil pack failed
Leads
Plugs

So, humouring me. . . . It's one of these right? wot else?


Bore wear, poston ring wear, valve seats not sealing....loss of compression etc...

Change atf fluid.

Change diff fluid.

Brakes not binding.

Minimise drag on aux belt components.

Regular oil changes with lifter treatment.

.....and no hissing. ;)
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #19 on: 28 September 2014, 10:59:50 »

Thanks Chris exactly what I thought.

And thanks cem. . . . There's no point doing a dyne clearly.

Can I pull this SAI fuse to test?
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chrisgixer

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #20 on: 28 September 2014, 11:09:35 »

Thanks Chris exactly what I thought.

And thanks cem. . . . There's no point doing a dyne clearly.

Can I pull this SAI fuse to test?

Normal thing to do with sai is pull the loom plug off the unit. Reach up from under the car, front, right rear of rad as you look at it.

But if the gubbins is leaking, it won't matter of on or off. It only runs shortly after start up.
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #21 on: 28 September 2014, 11:16:30 »

Thanks Chris, tbh there is a relay in the fuse box . . .  :)
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Nick W

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #22 on: 28 September 2014, 13:25:06 »

If you're going to disconnect the SAI, you might as well remove as much of it as possible, and block the ends of the pipes at the exhaust manifolds. All the pipes running across the front of the engine take a lot of space; removing them makes maintenance easier.
There's a load of gubbins behind the bumper, and I bet the air filter on the end of it is utterly knackered.
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #23 on: 28 September 2014, 15:21:35 »

If you're going to disconnect the SAI, you might as well remove as much of it as possible, and block the ends of the pipes at the exhaust manifolds. All the pipes running across the front of the engine take a lot of space; removing them makes maintenance easier.
There's a load of gubbins behind the bumper, and I bet the air filter on the end of it is utterly knackered.

Just for testing at the moment mate. I can just remove the relay, right?
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biggriffin

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #24 on: 28 September 2014, 15:38:40 »

Waste of time Mr bear.
With the auto you need to be able to lock the torque converter up when its in top,so tech 2 needed.
If its for pub bragging tell them its got 250bhp and goes like stink,and the injection system is race developed, ;D
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #25 on: 28 September 2014, 15:39:46 »

Waste of time Mr bear.
With the auto you need to be able to lock the torque converter up when its in top,so tech 2 needed.
If its for pub bragging tell them its got 250bhp and goes like stink,and the injection system is race developed, ;D

Thanks mate  :y
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Omega on a dyno
« Reply #26 on: 28 September 2014, 15:56:11 »

If you're going to disconnect the SAI, you might as well remove as much of it as possible, and block the ends of the pipes at the exhaust manifolds. All the pipes running across the front of the engine take a lot of space; removing them makes maintenance easier.
There's a load of gubbins behind the bumper, and I bet the air filter on the end of it is utterly knackered.

Just for testing at the moment mate. I can just remove the relay, right?

Well, removing relay did nothing. . . . . Except set on my CEL  ;D
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