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Author Topic: Engine stand question...  (Read 3830 times)

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Webby the Bear

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #15 on: 13 January 2015, 13:03:23 »

...oh and 100% co2 gas
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #16 on: 13 January 2015, 13:04:15 »

ps i dont have to use those castors. but i love the idea of making useless sh*t useful. and of course saving me dough in the mean time.

if i have to buy proper wheels i will :)
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kev2b4

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #17 on: 13 January 2015, 13:12:38 »

if you think about what you are using the trolley wheels for -- what's the worst case if 1 or more fail? - depends on what is on the dolly I guess - (RA coming up?)
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #18 on: 13 January 2015, 13:25:35 »

Shopping trolleys tend to be zinc plated and not stainless.
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Nick W

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #19 on: 13 January 2015, 13:34:28 »

Don't bother with the shopping trolley castors.
Get the whole trolley, cut the top off and attach your intended structure to what's left.
works well for a welding trolley or a small engine-dolly
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #20 on: 13 January 2015, 13:38:48 »

Thanks guys,

Mark, first of all... how the hell do you know all this stuff?  ??? ;D ;)

Zinc plated can be welded can it not? It's just like the shizzle on nuts and bolts that we were discussing? Unless i've got that horribly wrong  :-\ ;D

SO. On lunchen and knocked up some drawings of what i want, how i want it to look etc. will upload later.

For now though the welder dimensions are
L 500MM
W 280MM
H 420MM

So, the base (the bottom part where the welder sits) to be 380mm across and the length 600mm. This extra length to ensure the welder doesnt interfere with the upper portion and the legs.

the legs to be about 710mm in height and with the casters will be at good pulling heigth.

then a couple of 450mm tubes (with 45 degree angles on each side) to act as gussets from the back most legs attached to the upper portin.

then a bunch of (presumably 380mm if i get it all square) supporting tube sections in between all of that.

i dont want an extra area at the back for a bigger tank cos, quite honestly, im happy with the hobby bottles. still on my first one! :)
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #21 on: 13 January 2015, 13:41:56 »

Don't bother with the shopping trolley castors.
Get the whole trolley, cut the top off and attach your intended structure to what's left.
works well for a welding trolley or a small engine-dolly

Thats a really good idea Nick!!!
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #22 on: 13 January 2015, 13:47:26 »

Do you really think that something as disposable as a shopping trolley would be made out of expensive stainless steel....
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #23 on: 13 January 2015, 13:50:00 »

Do you really think that something as disposable as a shopping trolley would be made out of expensive stainless steel....


No idea mate.

i'm new to all this stuff and ive no clue on cost of materials other than theyre charging me only a few squid for my tubing! lol ;)
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #24 on: 13 January 2015, 13:51:05 »

Do you really think that something as disposable as a shopping trolley would be made out of expensive stainless steel....


No idea mate.

i'm new to all this stuff and ive no clue on cost of materials other than theyre charging me only a few squid for my tubing! lol ;)

The real answer is I watched a How Its Made where they had the humble shopping trolley on it.

As soon as you talk Stainless costs go up.
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #25 on: 13 January 2015, 13:52:49 »

Do you really think that something as disposable as a shopping trolley would be made out of expensive stainless steel....


No idea mate.

i'm new to all this stuff and ive no clue on cost of materials other than theyre charging me only a few squid for my tubing! lol ;)

The real answer is I watched a How Its Made where they had the humble shopping trolley on it.

As soon  s you talk Stainless costs go up.

Got ya! ;)

i too watch those vids but mainly the car ones.

engine blocks starting as sand blast and then that crumbles off to reveal a beautiful block. love it!!! :)
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kev2b4

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #26 on: 13 January 2015, 13:56:33 »

Current prices  (come down a little in the last 6 months)

Carbon steel -- $644/tonne
304 SS        -- $2754/tonne  ( note 304 goes rusty in seawater, 316 better but costs more )

Best is 310S  high temp oxidation resistant - ( like what I've got on my bench top!)
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Webby the Bear

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #27 on: 13 January 2015, 14:01:07 »

ooooh that is more expensive!!!!!!

i suppose thatas the price for sh*t not rusting!
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kev2b4

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #28 on: 13 January 2015, 14:06:32 »

c276 Hastalloy  -last time bought some ( a few/many years ago ) was about "£20,000/tonne,
800H, and inconnel less expensive  - but depends on application

But if it is free , and stays shiny'ish then will fit on my bench top  ( was a pig to drill holes in , as it work hardens)
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scimmy_man

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Re: Engine stand question...
« Reply #29 on: 14 January 2015, 09:11:08 »

ooooh that is more expensive!!!!!!

i suppose thatas the price for sh*t not rusting!

no it still rusts, its just STAIN less
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