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[steve6367]

Front drivers side:



Passenger side:



Not had corrosion to deal with since I sold my 1982 Ford Cortina! Is this weld a patch over? Or cut sections out and replace?

Steve

[biggriffin]

Proper job is cut out and weld plate in

1972 cortina way, is get some cardboard and filler, stick cardboard on,slap filler in,then cover with underseal, or use coke tin flattened out instead of cardboard.....Old skool rules

[tigers_gonads]

I've stripped all 4 of my arches and attacked it with a wire brush / wheel in the last few days.
Sorry to say this Steve but looking at that, if you now grind away the underseal around those hole and along the seem until you see bright metal, you will find that those holes will be a good 5 times bigger 

Sorry but if its that bad, its either cut out and weld new plate in or scrap the car 

I was very lucky with mine.
From what seemed like just a few blisters turned into 3 very small holes (5mm ish)  drivers side and 2 holes of the same size on the passenger side which got ground back to bare metal, treated and blathered in chassis paint / underseal to make disappear   

Anymore and it would have been angle grinder / mig welder time

[Sir Tigger KC]

Proper job is cut out and weld plate in

1972 cortina way, is get some cardboard and filler, stick cardboard on,slap filler in,then cover with underseal, or use coke tin flattened out instead of cardboard.....Old skool rules

I always found ice cream tub plastic made a good back plate. 

[steve6367]

I've stripped all 4 of my arches and attacked it with a wire brush / wheel in the last few days.
Sorry to say this Steve but looking at that, if you now grind away the underseal around those hole and along the seem until you see bright metal, you will find that those holes will be a good 5 times bigger 

Sorry but if its that bad, its either cut out and weld new plate in or scrap the car 

I was very lucky with mine.
From what seemed like just a few blisters turned into 3 very small holes (5mm ish)  drivers side and 2 holes of the same size on the passenger side which got ground back to bare metal, treated and blathered in chassis paint / underseal to make disappear   

Anymore and it would have been angle grinder / mig welder time

That would be dull, just getting this car sorted!

I've used wire brush  and wheel on drill and lot of poking with screw driver since the pics and the holes are still pretty much as it. Should I be using more force then?

Current I've treated and painted leaving the holes.

Steve

[tigers_gonads]

I've stripped all 4 of my arches and attacked it with a wire brush / wheel in the last few days.
Sorry to say this Steve but looking at that, if you now grind away the underseal around those hole and along the seem until you see bright metal, you will find that those holes will be a good 5 times bigger 

Sorry but if its that bad, its either cut out and weld new plate in or scrap the car 

I was very lucky with mine.
From what seemed like just a few blisters turned into 3 very small holes (5mm ish)  drivers side and 2 holes of the same size on the passenger side which got ground back to bare metal, treated and blathered in chassis paint / underseal to make disappear   

Anymore and it would have been angle grinder / mig welder time

That would be dull, just getting this car sorted!

I've used wire brush  and wheel on drill and lot of poking with screw driver since the pics and the holes are still pretty much as it. Should I be using more force then?

Current I've treated and painted leaving the holes.

Steve

When I went hole hunting 
I rubbed the underseal back around anything that looked like might be a hole with a wire wheel on a drill until I could see bare metal.
At the end of the day, if it ain't structural, I personally wouldn't worry too much but best hang on till one of the MOT type testers read the thread 

[steve6367]

Temporary treatment done:

[EMD]

Best to cut it out an weld in new ... mr mot man will fail it if he spots that  Failing that , chicken wire and chemical metal 

[steve6367]

I will get it welded / learn to weld in due course - it has an MOT for sometime yet and I have satisfied myself there is nothing immediately structural there. Purpose of the above is just to halt / slow the corrosion for the time being.

The chap that did my flexi today offered to sort it out for £100 a side - section cut out and replaced - I have no idea really, but that seemed reasonable?

[Nick W]

Interesting that you think that the inner wing to chassis rail isn't structural. It definitely looks like a justifiable MOT failure to me.

[steve6367]

Interesting that you think that the inner wing to chassis rail isn't structural. It definitely looks like a justifiable MOT failure to me.

Nick - the car has a recent MOT with no advisories and I don't believe this corrosion has suddenly happened since then. Maybe a better description would be it is clearly a structural component, but it has not yet progressed to a stage where the overall structure is significantly weakened. There were not holes at MOT time as I have made those during my investigation. For the avoidance of doubt I will deal with this properly - I will not be simply filling etc.

[andyc]

It all looks like its repairable but one thing to keep in mind is the leg be a double skin so both section would need to be repaired, also a lot of stripping down will be required

Cheers
Andy

[steve6367]

So I thought today before I spend anymore money I really should work out how much else, if anything, needs welding and started on the rear.



Are these areas 'normal' Omega rust problem areas? Or do I just have a rusty one?

Also - how do you release these clips without pushing the pin through the middle and losing it? Or do I just need some spares?

[05omegav6]

The pins might end up in the boot cubbies or in the sills assuming that they haven't wound uo on the ground...

They are readily available from VX (at a price)

[davieboy0312]

All the rust I have found and I'm at bare shell stage is front cross member, front chassis rails, sills, rear arches, lower inner at rear wheels( opposite end is behind rear seat bottom corners), both lower quarter panels behind bumper and finally boot floor at vents on drivers side. All easy to replace and a doddle to do just takes time