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[Webby the Bear]

It's only one way of getting the piston furthe out. I'm sure you could secure an 'object' in the caliper and do the same thing. But old pads are easier. I imagine 

[robson]

When you took the old pads out was one worn more than the other which would indicate a seized or stiff piston.

[terry paget]

When you took the old pads out was one worn more than the other which would indicate a seized or stiff piston.

Or seized or stiff slide pins.
The blessing of hydraulic brake operation is the certainty of even braking. I have known cars with rod or cable brakes that pulled and twitched all over the place. I have only ever known it on hydraulic brakes when I was daft enough to mix half worn pads of different makes.

Does the steering wheel pull when you you brake?

[Andy A]

I will recheck everything and test the pipes etc this weekend and report back with my findings. 

Thanks

[Andy A]

I took it all apart again and checked everything.

The pins are free moving.
The pads drop in and out with no tightness.
The old pads are worn down evenly and about the same on the front n/s and o/s.
Rubber brake pipes look in good condition and the pistons on the n/s and o/s both go back with the same resistance.

There is no twitching when I brake and it is a smooth pull to the left and the harder I brake the more it pulls to the left.

So I guess it must be the front wishbone bushes. Do you agree?

 

[Webby the Bear]

And the O/S piston was pushed back with no clamp and bleed nipple shut?

If so then yeah, perhaps it was wishbone bushes all along. . . At least u didn't spend o a caliper you didn't need 

[RobG]

Sounds like rear wishbone bushes or you could have play in one of the balljoints or the Idler arm