Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[steve6367]

Ok so my simply solenoid change didn't go well yesterday and now its in bits on a friends drive (where it can't stay).

Is this my thrust washer? If so what symptom does this cause? Is it terminal?



To get the roll pin out for the solenoid I had to remove the valve body and drive the pin out. Should these 2 ball bearings be there? If so are they in the correct place?



Many thanks for any thoughts. 

Steve

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Sorry can't help re: the solenoid change, but yes, I believe that is your thrust washer. 

 On the plus side it can go on for miles without it. Obviously not recommended, but if you don't happen to have a machine shop and replacement washer in your back pocket, then it can be a job for a few weekends time. Depends if you need the car back on the road asap or not.

[steve6367]

Sorry can't help re: the solenoid change, but yes, I believe that is your thrust washer. 

 On the plus side it can go on for miles without it. Obviously not recommended, but if you don't happen to have a machine shop and replacement washer in your back pocket, then it can be a job for a few weekends time. Depends if you need the car back on the road asap or not.

Thank you - good to know it wont be immediately catastrophic. JPAT advise they don't sell the Sonnax washer anymore, only the original plastic and the valve body paper gaskets only come as part of an overhaul kit so a bit stuck for parts.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

I can't give you a link, but I know there's a metal alternative out there, seem to think for a Merc. Have a nosey in the how to guides. You need to machine flat the part where the old thrust washer went. (so 'box out, and upright) This is called an 'easy' job, but Ive never machined anything in my life, and wouldn't know who to turn to.

However, parts are relatively inexpensive, and I know plenty on here have done it. It's a worthwhile upgrade, and will then, touch wood, never let you down in any of our lifetimes. It's a faff getting the thing out and apart etc... but in terms of actual £ cost to your pocket, cheaper than an oil change. 

[steve6367]

Thank you, its this I think:

http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2182

To be honest I had been previously advised on here to just swap the box, but I was trying to avoid that as its beyond my DIY skill on the drive to remove the thing. Looks like its got to come out though weather I swap it or fix it and I've now managed to make it so I can't drive the thing to a garage. I've just looked again and can't see how on earth you control the weight of the box in the confined space without ended up with it on top of me!

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Spare trolley jack. You need to get it good and high, though, ideally ramps, otherwise you wont be able to get the thing out! 


I've done it once, vowed never again. It was in 6 inch of snow, in january, however. And I got a weak, cheap cup of tea for my trouble.  So I'm perhaps biased.

Box swap is easiest route. But just be aware who knows... maybe the new box thrust washer will go next week... or in ten years. That's the gamble.

As said, parts it's not many pounds. If you're paying a garage to do it, however, labour there's a fair whack, to be honest, though, if you've got the skills and managed to get as far as you have, the whole box out isn't that far away, really. Option 1 - The car's undriveable as you say, so either reassemble, and worry about it another day, or get onto whoever does the thrustwashers, ring around some engineering firms ask how much to skim the box (maybe your local college's engineering department could help for a 6 pack of strongbow?) and do it.

Alternative 2 is reassemble the box, and buy a new box, pay whoever, however much to fit a new one, and maybe have the same issue next month. 'Tis in the lap fo the gods.

Option 1 - guaranteed to work, costs little. Fair amount of aggro.
Option 2 - not guaranteed to work, costs a lot. Less aggro.

 

[Shackeng]

I have an unwanted serviceable AR25.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

There you go 

Third option... get Shackeng's box, and either chuck yours in the bin, or install a thrust washer, redo the oil, repaint it lilac, whatever you like, at your own pace. 

OOF at its best. 

[steve6367]

Thank you for all the encouragement, I can now confirm you can remove a AR25 single handed  Now just to work out what to do next!





You can see why the crank sensor wiring suffers, what a stupid route!

[Steve B]

Nice of you to go to the trouble of taking pics while you were knee deep in it  (and alone at that)

Are you gonna go it alone for the refit ?

Is a AR35 going in ?

[Bigron]

Serek changed my AR25 for me about a year ago, brilliant job; so if you are anywhere near Huntingdon, PM him.....

Ron.

[steve6367]

Thank you, I m down in sunny Dorset which seems to have a distinct lack of local OOF mechanics. I'm doing ok taking my time now though, box is out so just need to decide if to replace or referb.

Are there any other jobs worth doing while the box is out? It does give good access to the back of the engine.

Steve

[Diamond Black Geezer]

I'd be tempted clean the gear selector gizmo. (the quadrant shaped part which is directly connected to the gear lever) Inside you'll find metal foil contacts, which often get oil seepage inside, this can lead to poor/incorrect/non-existent gearchanges.

You've got the box out so you have the luxury od doing a full fluid change, whereas most of us have to settle for a 60%ish oil replacement, I assume the rest is inside the torque converter.

In theory you can do the crank seal on the engine, as that's a gearbox-out job; however, that's perhaps a bit like me saying 'you've got the engine apart, do the head gaskets', unless it's actually failed, I'm not sure there's any reason to suggest it won't last for many tens of thousands of miles. How many miles has your car done?and is/was there any oil at the bottom of the inside of the bell housing? Of none, then your seal is fine.  When they fail they 'hover' around the 200k mark, (some cars less, some cars much more) blocked breathers/excessive oil can cause them to blow.

I see your dilemma, you could be back on the road with a new gearbox in an hour, and refurb yours at your own pace, or refurb yours while off the car... only you can say how tired of the job you are, really, and how quick you want to be back on the road..

[steve6367]

I'm certainly pressing on with the refurbishment for now (its actually quite interesting), although today  I found out I can get the brass thrust washer for 2 weeks s maybe forced to pop another box in for now!

Few more pics to follow.

Steve

[steve6367]

Just to finish this off, all done 

Thrust washer changed, solenoid changed, all fluid removed, box back on the car and it changes like a dream now.

Thank to all the help here.

I have a few pics which I think round help other novice gearbox changers - his do in get them into the guide?

Steve