Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[sjc]

I'd start by pulling the plugs out and see what they tell you.  Grey coating is normal, black is mixture too rich (white too lean) and wet with fuel means no spark.

If it's not running on all 6 then the possibilities are:
   One or more blocked/seized/non-functioning injectors (could be as simple as a corroded electrical connector)
   Faulty coil pack, although I believe a 3.2 would throw a fault code for this (3.0 & 2.5 don't and the ECU is oblivious)
   Faulty spark plug which is not unheard of even in new plugs
   Compression issue cause by piston problem or valve train issue, only a compression test can rule this out - is it making any strange noises?
   Other electrical/electronic issue, this isn't a common symptom of crank sensor failure but I wouldn't dismiss it

[Ulap31]

Right I've been working on this all day. So I now have code 0300,0304. Removed plugs yesterday swapped them all around and I'm still getting same codes.
Decided to check timing as I've got the Sykes timing kit.
Tdc locked in place but the timing marks on covers not lining up with camshaft sprockets to allow the locking pins to be installed.
Bit of jiggling around and they're in. Removed belt checked it over although it's only done 3000 miles and then worked it back round and noticed slack in between 1&2 and on 3&4.
tightened tensioners turned by hand a few times,locked tdc in place and yet again can't get locking pins in but the marks on covers and sprockets line up perfectly.
So have I been supplied the right belt or are the sprockets fitted wrong and would this cause my problems

[05omegav6]

Sprockets don't line up with the nothches...

0300 is general misfire... First sign of a hiccup
0304 is a cylinder specific misfire to cylinder 4

You need to replace the coil pack if the plugs are new/serviceable.

You have confused yourself with the cambelt... It has no electrical input and therefore won't produce a code... You need to use the cam guage supplied with the kit to check the belt timing.

If you don't have this... Don't do ANYTHING else until you have a complete locking kit...

[Ulap31]

No panic I have a complete locking kit was trying to rule it out of the equation. Was a little worried I'd been given the wrong belt but as you say wouldn't cause a fault code though.
Think I'll try a new coil pack from vx but can't do that for couple of weeks so it'll have to wait for the moment.
Think I need a member with tech 2 who's local and knows what to look at with diagnostics.

[05omegav6]

Pedal trick is pretty reliable with exception of cranksensor and gearbox code's

[YZ250]

Right I've been working on this all day. So I now have code 0300,0304. Removed plugs yesterday swapped them all around and I'm still getting same codes.
Decided to check timing as I've got the Sykes timing kit.
Tdc locked in place but the timing marks on covers not lining up with camshaft sprockets to allow the locking pins to be installed.
Bit of jiggling around and they're in. Removed belt checked it over although it's only done 3000 miles and then worked it back round and noticed slack in between 1&2 and on 3&4.
tightened tensioners turned by hand a few times,locked tdc in place and yet again can't get locking pins in but the marks on covers and sprockets line up perfectly.
So have I been supplied the right belt or are the sprockets fitted wrong and would this cause my problems

Back plate notches are purely a guide, not a set point.  Just thinking out loud here so ignore me if I've got it wrong but which way are you feeding the cambelt?
If you have any slack between cam 4 and the crank on initial set-up, when you lock the tool on to the water pump after rotation by hand there will still be a small amount of clockwise rotation of the cams required to get the cam locks in. This is not how it should be so I'm just checking that this is not the case, as the slack would cause this. The crank would pull out the slack but the movement of the cams would be slightly delayed, if that makes sense, hence the cam locks not going straight in. Ignore me if I've got the wrong end of the stick. 

As said, 0304 would point at the 2,4,6 coil pack but I note that you say you have changed them. Were they new or known good coil packs? 

[berserkerboy]

Regarding the locking pins. I confused myself with them not going in....I was trying to put them in the wrong way around

[Ulap31]

Ok turned engine by hand about 20 odd times and your right I was doing it Arse about face so please ignore the part about timing etc.
Right the coil packs I used were from euro car parts which I think could be one of the problems.
I changed both originals when this problem started as right bank coil pack was knackered from skuttle leaking water onto it. Which I've now sealed up.
So kept getting misfire codes on both banks!!!!! Moved sensors behind cats as per guide new genuine maf new knock sensors new genuine vx plugs new timing belt and tensioners.
Still getting the misfire codes.
So I've put the original coil pack back on left hand bank and hey presto not getting misfire on left hand bank, why then are these coil packs not working as I paid about £80 a side if they cause problems how can they sell them

[polilara]

I had something very similar, codes 300 and 304, but found water in zyl  No. 6 well, bought "original" BOSCH 2-4-6 coil back, all problems gone. Water leaking prevented first.

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=133890.0

[Ulap31]

Right new Bosch coil packs, moved the sensors behind main cat and hey presto running rough and 2 codes that are
0161
And 0161
Really had enough that's nearly a year now without a car that should be a straight forward to get fixed
Any body near Welwyn garden city who has the tech 2 and knows what their looking for would be appreciated.
Mrs has said f****** thing just sell it
See previous post as have changed lots of bits and still can't get it running right
Cheers

[Kevin Wood]

0161 is Bank 2 O2 sensor 2 heater circuit. Wouldn't cause rough running but might be worth checking the wiring to that sensor.

[terry paget]

I post to express sympathy and bafflement at your car's behaviour, defying the best advice available. I have run a 3.2 for 10 years. In that time I have had misfires caused  by water in no. 6, and crank sensor failure. Earlier Omegas were more prone to misfiring due to plug, plug leads and coil pack problems.
You mention smell of overfuelling. Do you mean smell of fuel?, Have you checked for smell of fuel leak when engine running? Could be around fuel filter or corrosion of pump outlet pipe.
I imagine your car is an automatic. On my manual full throttle at 20mph in 4th gear is when car is most likely to misfire, or pink, though I have never known mine pink. If mine did pink I would suspect a knock sensor disconnected or faulty. I shouldn't mind the fans cutting in and out so long as car does not overheat.

[terry paget]

Two suggestions; if not already changed, change crank sensor; check Vx plugs are the right plugs - wrong heat grade can cause pre-ignition.

[JamesV6CDX]

Not a million miles away here in Buckinghamshire, have diag kit and live data capabilities

[Kevin Wood]

Yep, a full set of live data from the engine idling once fully warmed up would be a good start.