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[tunnie]

Next up is rear brake pads and fuel filter, but want to invest in some software to do this first.

So since the bike is no longer in the garage  - Time to sort things out with a computer setup in there. 

Just a warning Tunnie,if you didn't drain the oil via the bung a vacumn extractor will not get it all out on that engine,the older PD engines would drain completely but the newer ones leave about a litre remaining

Thanks, yes I did use an extractor. I've not yet sorted something to protect the car when jacking it, although now I'm now confident where I can put the axel stands.

It was tad low on oil, it was towards the bottom of the dip stick, so I figured maybe 0.5/0.75L not in it to start with. I removed around 3.5L so thought it was little low. 

Once I get a bit more happy about lifting the car, I'll look to use the plug 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Also get some grease on the airbox screws, after a few years they rust and are a shit to remove

[tunnie]

Also get some grease on the airbox screws, after a few years they rust and are a shit to remove

 

Although I thought they were Plastic 

[henryd]

Next up is rear brake pads and fuel filter, but want to invest in some software to do this first.

So since the bike is no longer in the garage  - Time to sort things out with a computer setup in there. 

Just a warning Tunnie,if you didn't drain the oil via the bung a vacumn extractor will not get it all out on that engine,the older PD engines would drain completely but the newer ones leave about a litre remaining

Thanks, yes I did use an extractor. I've not yet sorted something to protect the car when jacking it, although now I'm now confident where I can put the axel stands.

It was tad low on oil, it was towards the bottom of the dip stick, so I figured maybe 0.5/0.75L not in it to start with. I removed around 3.5L so thought it was little low. 

Once I get a bit more happy about lifting the car, I'll look to use the plug 

If it was mine I'd make a small access hole in the undertray to allow oil draining

[henryd]

Also get some grease on the airbox screws, after a few years they rust and are a shit to remove

 

Although I thought they were Plastic 

No they aren't and as Mark says they are a bastard to get out when the heads have corroded

[tunnie]

Next time the bonnet is up, I'll slap some grease on them 

Need to inspect this under tray and find where the drain plug is in relation to it all.

[Mr Gav]

Well done Tunnie 

I don`t think I`d be keen on 17k servicing though, I`d be tempted to change the oil and filter halfway through at around 8-9k.

As regards to jacking have you thought abought airbag jacks like mobile tyre fitters use, apparently they jack the car up under the sills but don`t damage the plastic sill covers.

[henryd]

Next time the bonnet is up, I'll slap some grease on them 

Need to inspect this under tray and find where the drain plug is in relation to it all.

Any luck with the service indicator reset

[tunnie]

Well done Tunnie 

I don`t think I`d be keen on 17k servicing though, I`d be tempted to change the oil and filter halfway through at around 8-9k.

As regards to jacking have you thought abought airbag jacks like mobile tyre fitters use, apparently they jack the car up under the sills but don`t damage the plastic sill covers.

No not keen on 17k either, I'll drop this oil fully after a 3-4k I think. Nothing better for an engine that some regular oil changes after fleet service life.

I've got all the main bits for lifting, just want to make a block or get a soft pad to jack the car.

Next time the bonnet is up, I'll slap some grease on them 

Need to inspect this under tray and find where the drain plug is in relation to it all.

Any luck with the service indicator reset

Not tried yet, but does appear to be ways...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTjg0-ggeSo

But in next week or so I'll probably order VCDS from here...

http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCHUB.html

[TheBoy]

I could really see no difference, size of the elements (width/depth). The rubber edging, it was identical bar the 3rd run of glue.

Oh the price was different, £7.70 vs £19.50 from VW

Yup, no brainer

Worth checking Halfords trade prices as well, I've found them competitive for oil filters (less than £1.50 for the Rover)...

[TheBoy]

Student - if its had long oil servicing, I'd probably change oil again (not necessarily filter) in 1k or so, then use 4k as the norm from there.

[tunnie]

That will be in about 2 weeks time then 

Must sort a jack pad thingy out.

[serek]

Well done Tunnie 

I don`t think I`d be keen on 17k servicing though, I`d be tempted to change the oil and filter halfway through at around 8-9k.

As regards to jacking have you thought abought airbag jacks like mobile tyre fitters use, apparently they jack the car up under the sills but don`t damage the plastic sill covers.

No not keen on 17k either, I'll drop this oil fully after a 3-4k I think. Nothing better for an engine that some regular oil changes after fleet service life.

I've got all the main bits for lifting, just want to make a block or get a soft pad to jack the car.

Next time the bonnet is up, I'll slap some grease on them 

Need to inspect this under tray and find where the drain plug is in relation to it all.

Any luck with the service indicator reset

Not tried yet, but does appear to be ways...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTjg0-ggeSo

But in next week or so I'll probably order VCDS from here...

http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCHUB.html

if you have 13 plate then you will have different setup

you still car reset in instrument cluster much easier then in older models, just pick option in  menu

[Viral_Jim]

Tunnie,

For routine servicing like this, why not just grab a pair of ramps and not bother jacking at all?

I picked some up a while ago for bobbins and I can have a car on them, oil drained quicker than just jacking a car up.

To a certain extent you're duplicating tools, but given it sounds like you'll be dropping the oil every 8 minutes or so it will probably pay for itself in time saved in short order. Not to mention I'd feel safer with it on ramps than jack stands. Just personal preference though.

These are mine, but I didn't buy them new and paid rather less
http://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-2-tonne-car-ramps-2-pack/83061?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Auto%20and%20Cleaning&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CKTQ1ZfDsM8CFQ06Gwod-sMGIA

[henryd]

Tunnie,

For routine servicing like this, why not just grab a pair of ramps and not bother jacking at all?

I picked some up a while ago for bobbins and I can have a car on them, oil drained quicker than just jacking a car up.

To a certain extent you're duplicating tools, but given it sounds like you'll be dropping the oil every 8 minutes or so it will probably pay for itself in time saved in short order. Not to mention I'd feel safer with it on ramps than jack stands. Just personal preference though.

These are mine, but I didn't buy them new and paid rather less
http://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-2-tonne-car-ramps-2-pack/83061?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Auto%20and%20Cleaning&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CKTQ1ZfDsM8CFQ06Gwod-sMGIA

Problem is that the Passat is low at the front with long overhang so doubt that he could drive up them without adding wood blocks first