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[elltee]

Hi

I'm looking for a 3.2 preferably manual Omega doner car or engine and all the gubbins to go with it for my Opel Rekord C Coupe project.

I seen a rough looking one go for £510 last weekend.

Is this the going price for a 120,000 mile Omega?
How often do they come up?

Note: Im not yet in a position to buy but looking to see what i need to save up.

[Keith ABS]

Sounds a very interesting project mate. Any pics?

Keith ABS

[Marks DTM Calib]

I personally would be looking for a 3.0 as they are MUCH easier to get in manual form plus the injection system wiring is less complex to get working (its not looking for CAN info from ABS etc) .

An ultimate would be a 3.2 block with 2.5 heads and 3.0 injection system.....

[Diamond Black Geezer]

And, should you be so-minded you could potentially source a 3.0 / 3.2 whoch has suffered a cambelt failure, and a 2.5 that is working (but seemingly fair-bit less-sought after) and swap over the necessary onto the 3.0 block. My logic being it's only the heads that will be destroyed on the 3.0. If you're going to this level  of things making an 'ultimate' V6 is perfectly doable.
 

[biggriffin]

I personally would be looking for a 3.0 as they are MUCH easier to get in manual form plus the injection system wiring is less complex to get working (its not looking for CAN info from ABS etc) .

An ultimate would be a 3.2 block with 2.5 heads and 3.0 injection system.....

Add 3.2 manifolds, and x4 G cams.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Indeed. Lots has been said elsewhere (I've caused most of the threads!) but the ultimate is (Quoting from MarksDTM)

3.2 inlet with injectors or fit 3.0 and the FPR from a 2.6/3.2 (slight increased rail pressure, worth having as it costs nothing)
3.2/3.0 inlet divider plate
2.5/2.6 heads which must be ported to match the inlet divider (2.5/2.6 heads have smaller ports than the 3.0/3.2) and 3.0/3.2 exhaust valves (sodium filled)
3.0 cams
3.2 bottom end
2.6/3.2 exhaust manifolds
2.5/3.0 front pipes and cats
3.0 electronics including DIS pack ecu etc with EGR blanked/removed and SAI removed


So as you can see, OP, from the above witha  couple of 'broke' 2.5 and 3.0/3.2s you could make yourself a very nice engine for very little, potentially 

[The Red Baron]

Is there no point in the J cams from a 3.2?.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

As I understood it the J cams are the mildest cams. So, one supposes if you wanted to actually extract the max mpg from your V6, versus max power, then they'd be the best choice. 


Tricky decision, for an engine that really doesn't have much power relative to displacement (especially these days) to actually cut power even more... might make it a bit like a 4-pot to drive. You know, on paper it's more economical, but in reality you end up driving it harder, so do the same-ish mpg as a V6...  hmmmm...

[Marks DTM Calib]

It was pretty good on the power-displacement in its day 

J cams are good for lift (10.2mm ish from memory) but they are tuned a bit towards economy/emissions (duration and overlap) so not the preferred ones.

[The Red Baron]

I see Mark. I was going to drop J cams in my 3l with the g cams. Is this not a good idea.

[elltee]

Sounds a very interesting project mate. Any pics?

Keith ABS

Im hoping to get the shell in primer this weekend.
Ill get some fresh pics then its currently a bare shell requiring lots of minor welding.
i have the subframe out and im trying to get all the bushes from germany which is proving diffcult at the moment

[elltee]

Hmm Sounds like good news ish.
The 3.0 manual sounds like a good start to get it on the road and then collect parts as i go.
It all seems very simple, Are they all 'plug and play' type swaps? or are remaps required along the way to keep it running?
Did i read something about the 2.5 ECU being used?
Does the 3.0 gearbox fit the 3.2?
What HP/torque can the gearbox/prop/shafts take?
Is there a thread of the 'ultimate v6' that has been built?

Sorry for all the questions

[serek]

got 3.0 engine here with 3.2 manifold and 4 g cams already fitted complite with all bits

[elltee]

Indeed. Lots has been said elsewhere (I've caused most of the threads!) but the ultimate is (Quoting from MarksDTM)

3.2 inlet with injectors or fit 3.0 and the FPR from a 2.6/3.2 (slight increased rail pressure, worth having as it costs nothing)
3.2/3.0 inlet divider plate
2.5/2.6 heads which must be ported to match the inlet divider (2.5/2.6 heads have smaller ports than the 3.0/3.2) and 3.0/3.2 exhaust valves (sodium filled)
3.0 cams
3.2 bottom end
2.6/3.2 exhaust manifolds
2.5/3.0 front pipes and cats
3.0 electronics including DIS pack ecu etc with EGR blanked/removed and SAI removed


So as you can see, OP, from the above witha  couple of 'broke' 2.5 and 3.0/3.2s you could make yourself a very nice engine for very little, potentially 

Is there much gain by removing the cats? as i wont need them with the age of the car being 1968 

[Diamond Black Geezer]

I think that you're actually cocking up the whole thing. Massive difference between the CIH straight 6s of Carltons, versus the V6s... the V6 was designed to have cats from day one. The straight 6s weren't. Something to do with how the back pressure of an engine does actually help combustion, and there whole thing is tuned, with exhaust valve opening times and so forth,  to work with the reduced flow that having cats fitted causes.

It is said that Omegas (Cavs, Calibras, Vectras, Signums) run worse when decatted.