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[TD]

Does the temp gauge read as expected? or a tad high?

[Andy H]

Does the temp gauge read as expected? or a tad high?

What might that indicate? (I haven't started using the car yet so I don't have an opinion about the temperature gauge in either the pod I want to repair or the one that is currently fitted))

[TD]

Does the temp gauge read as expected? or a tad high?

What might that indicate? (I haven't started using the car yet so I don't have an opinion about the temperature gauge in either the pod I want to repair or the one that is currently fitted))

Many moons ago, a member on here was having with the temp gauge on his 3.0 (it was reading slightly high)
The problem turned out to be, was the cluster in his 3.0 were from a 2.5. Telling the cluster (via tech2) it was fitted to a 3.0 cured the problem 

[Andy H]

Does the temp gauge read as expected? or a tad high?

What might that indicate? (I haven't started using the car yet so I don't have an opinion about the temperature gauge in either the pod I want to repair or the one that is currently fitted))

Many moons ago, a member on here was having with the temp gauge on his 3.0 (it was reading slightly high)
The problem turned out to be, was the cluster in his 3.0 were from a 2.5. Telling the cluster (via tech2) it was fitted to a 3.0 cured the problem 

Wierd. I am puzzled how the engine capacity could affect the coolant temperature calibration. Not disbelieving but looking to understand why

I sat in my Elite while TheBoy ran some Tech2 tests on the instruments in my Elite at a lakes meet many moons ago.

One of the tests involved making the tacho and speedo needles move to particular readings. I am still not sure how he did it. I was left with the impression that there is an ECU embedded in the instrument pod (in addition to the TID/MID/GID). I think I am going to have to refit the original pod to check the MID coding and then open it up to see what chips are lurking within.

[Doctor Gollum]

Mid can be removed without fuss and swapped independently of cluster...

[TheBoy]

Generally, failure of speedo that's NOT an ABS fault is the actual speedo itself, and can be swapped in the instrument (but easier to swap entire instrument panel).

Post 1998 ones are programmable, so as long as the markings on the unit are correct for the car (ie, 160mph and redline at 6750 for a v6), a chat with tech2 will sort other oddities.

[TheBoy]

I am puzzled as to why the range is reading 16 miles to empty but the fuel gauge is reading just under 1/8th full and the low fuel lamp hasn't come on.

Ignore that till its got some fuel in it and done some miles, as when its low, the instrument can report low back to MID under certain circumstances (such as very short fills when its empty).

My MV6 has annoyingly been reading range of zero for a couple weeks, but fuel light isn't on.  Its really annoying, but suffering badly with CBA every time I pass a petrol station

[Andy H]

Generally, failure of speedo that's NOT an ABS fault is the actual speedo itself, and can be swapped in the instrument (but easier to swap entire instrument panel).

Post 1998 ones are programmable, so as long as the markings on the unit are correct for the car (ie, 160mph and redline at 6750 for a v6), a chat with tech2 will sort other oddities.

James said that both speedo and tacho were affected. Reading up on general issues with VDO dashboards (admittedly for a previous generation) I found references to a capacitor rated at 16volt that was prone to failure if the alternator regulator failed.

Am I guilty of OCD for wanting to keep the original instruments (& odometer reading) ?