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[STEMO]

£1370 and the car was returned with no compression on one cylinder.

Woman owner. Sexism at its finest.

[Nick W]

Refitting the piston is a matter of using a well lubricated piston compressor, and confidently knocking the piston through it with the same heavy hammer and block of wood you used to remove it.


I know you're doing the job for several other good reasons, but realistically it's time for a replacement engine.

My concern with a replacement engine is, will it soon suffer the same problems?

Cost wise I feel it’d be easier to fix this one

Those are not common problems, or a quick cheap easy fix. An engine should cost less than the necessary parts, and is much less work than reassembling what you have.


I would have taken one look at that piston(and you need to examine the others if you're keeping them) and started looking for an engine.

[JamesV6CDX]

Refitting the piston is a matter of using a well lubricated piston compressor, and confidently knocking the piston through it with the same heavy hammer and block of wood you used to remove it.


I know you're doing the job for several other good reasons, but realistically it's time for a replacement engine.

My concern with a replacement engine is, will it soon suffer the same problems?

Cost wise I feel it’d be easier to fix this one

Those are not common problems, or a quick cheap easy fix. An engine should cost less than the necessary parts, and is much less work than reassembling what you have.


I would have taken one look at that piston(and you need to examine the others if you're keeping them) and started looking for an engine.

Quick or easy aren’t considerations. I have all the time in the world. And I fancy a challenge. I’m finding it keeps my mind active and makes me feel better.

Cost wise,

Valves £30
Head gasket set £50
Bolts £15
Used piston £20
Ring set £40

Parts are coming in at sub £150.

Seems better to spend that and have an entirely known quantity, than some used engine that’s a complete gamble? 

[JamesV6CDX]

What’s the best way to protect the crank journals and bores from rust while I’m away?

 coated in grease, will this do?

Car will left for ten days or so while I’m away

[Doctor Gollum]

WD40 and cover in clingfilm

[Marks DTM Calib]

WD40 and cover in clingfilm

What he said.

Before refit polish them up with very fine wet and dry then some garnet paper or t-cut

[aaronjb]

Boeshield T9, if you want to get fancier than WD40..

[LC0112G]

What’s the best way to protect the crank journals and bores from rust while I’m away?

 coated in grease, will this do?

Car will left for ten days or so while I’m away

I'd take the piston rings off the piston(s), cover the current little end bearings in grease and re-assemble. Also lightly grease the bores and the block face to stop them rusting (assuming its a cast iron block not ally) but remember you're going to have to get it all off again afterwards so don't go nuts with it. Or put the old CHG and head back on whilst you're away.

[JamesV6CDX]

Didn’t have time to reassemble -

Bores smeared with grease

Crank journals likewise and wrapped in Cling film

Same with mating surface

Cams smeared on grease and wrapped in film

Pistons are in the house 

Best I could do, running late for flight ..

[JamesV6CDX]

Time to resurrect this one....

I’ve just taken delivery of a lot of parts.

As Mark said assume the garage did nothing.

I have a set of new valves all round. Three new pistons with rings.

New big end bearings.

Full chain kit and sprockets / guides

Head set with bolts

Big end bearings

Thermostat

Water pump

Plus lots more

If I can get new con rod bolts, assuming the weather is good, I may get the three new pistons and rings fitted tomorrow

[JamesV6CDX]

The wrist pins were a nightmare. Total nightmare. Destroyed the old pistons removing them.

On refitting, got the con rod silly hot with a blowtorch, and had a 2 second window to get them in right

[Marks DTM Calib]

To remove (or fit) wrist pins you heat from inside the piston (from below).

You wont need Conrod bolts, they are not fitted that tight and certainly not to the point of creep, a little thread lock if your feeling generous.

Don't fit the sump until AFTER you have fitted the timing chain cover, seen many a leak otherwise.

[JamesV6CDX]

To remove (or fit) wrist pins you heat from inside the piston (from below).

You wont need Conrod bolts, they are not fitted that tight and certainly not to the point of creep, a little thread lock if your feeling generous.

Don't fit the sump until AFTER you have fitted the timing chain cover, seen many a leak otherwise.

Thanks mark

The wrist pins are fitted now. One is a little off centre. Will this be an issue?

I imagine not, as

A) it’s fixed in the conrod
b) there’s plenty of “purchase” either side of the piston regardless of any offset either side

[JamesV6CDX]

To remove (or fit) wrist pins you heat from inside the piston (from below).

You wont need Conrod bolts, they are not fitted that tight and certainly not to the point of creep, a little thread lock if your feeling generous.

Don't fit the sump until AFTER you have fitted the timing chain cover, seen many a leak otherwise.

Due to the engine mount and need to support the weight of the engine I will have to

A) loosely refit sump after fitting pistons

B) support weight, remove engine mount

C) refit timing gear, cover etc

D) fit and seal sump properly

[JamesV6CDX]

Just for clarity. This setup is such that the wrist pin is firmly pressed into the con rod, but runs freely on the piston skirt. So the rod can move side to side inside the piston skirt