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[TheBoy]

No coding on that device. What’s not happening Shack?

I was referring to the fact that as soon as I reconnected the battery, ignition key not in, before I got back in the car, the radio came straight on without a requirement for the radio code, or even to be switched on.
It is an NCDC 2013.

So aside from the radio, everything is working perfectly?


The NCDC2013 doesn't have a security code in the traditional sense - its security is by the fact its paired to the display in the dash. So you have no code to enter. So worry not about the fact its not asking for a code, as it won't

Most glitches with NCDC2013 can be resolved by popping the radio out for an hour - sometimes its internal systems get in a strange state, particularly as they age.


Check the Mode Retainment setting I suggested 2 or 3 posts ago as well.


Lastly, the radio (along with other stuff) works off the "W Contact":

Key just put in, but left in off - W off
Key in position 1 or II - W on
Key moved from I or II to Off BUT KEY not removed - W on
Key out - W off

So make sure W contact working as expected.

[Shackeng]

No coding on that device. What’s not happening Shack?

I was referring to the fact that as soon as I reconnected the battery, ignition key not in, before I got back in the car, the radio came straight on without a requirement for the radio code, or even to be switched on.
It is an NCDC 2013.

So aside from the radio, everything is working perfectly?


The NCDC2013 doesn't have a security code in the traditional sense - its security is by the fact its paired to the display in the dash. So you have no code to enter. So worry not about the fact its not asking for a code, as it won't

Most glitches with NCDC2013 can be resolved by popping the radio out for an hour - sometimes its internal systems get in a strange state, particularly as they age.


Check the Mode Retainment setting I suggested 2 or 3 posts ago as well.


Lastly, the radio (along with other stuff) works off the "W Contact":

Key just put in, but left in off - W off
Key in position 1 or II - W on
Key moved from I or II to Off BUT KEY not removed - W on
Key out - W off

So make sure W contact working as expected.

Strange, as the radio has always asked for a code before when battery reconnected. hence my puzzlement.
As said, I am not concerned with the radio operation so much, but will try your procedure. I am concerned that neither key will synch with the original switch (or the new switch when tried), so remote locking etc. not working. Otherwise, yes, car starts and runs perfectly.

[TheBoy]

An NCDC has never asked you for a code, as the only way to insert code into NCDC is via tech2.  Your old TD would have asked for a code, maybe this is where the confusion is.

So the fob isn't unlocking/locking car? Correct sequence is:
All doors closed (and remain closed), window open (for safety, in case you mess it up and somehow deadlock yourself inside)
Ign to II
Press either of the buttons several times on one of the fobs - the doors should lock and then unlock, signifying fob has been sync'd
Repeat last step for other fob(s)


Above only works if the fob has been programmed to the Alarm ECU previously via Tech2.

[Shackeng]

An NCDC has never asked you for a code, as the only way to insert code into NCDC is via tech2.  Your old TD would have asked for a code, maybe this is where the confusion is.

So the fob isn't unlocking/locking car? Correct sequence is:
All doors closed (and remain closed), window open (for safety, in case you mess it up and somehow deadlock yourself inside)
Ign to II
Press either of the buttons several times on one of the fobs - the doors should lock and then unlock, signifying fob has been sync'd
Repeat last step for other fob(s)


Above only works if the fob has been programmed to the Alarm ECU previously via Tech2.

Not sure about the last sentence, as the key was synched OK to the currently fitted switch before.
I'll try that tomorrow, thanks.

[Andy H]

An NCDC has never asked you for a code, as the only way to insert code into NCDC is via tech2.  Your old TD would have asked for a code, maybe this is where the confusion is.

So the fob isn't unlocking/locking car? Correct sequence is:
All doors closed (and remain closed), window open (for safety, in case you mess it up and somehow deadlock yourself inside)
Ign to II
Press either of the buttons several times on one of the fobs - the doors should lock and then unlock, signifying fob has been sync'd
Repeat last step for other fob(s)


Above only works if the fob has been programmed to the Alarm ECU previously via Tech2.

Not sure about the last sentence, as the key was synched OK to the currently fitted switch before.
I'll try that tomorrow, thanks.

You are confusing me now

My understanding is that the switch is 'dumb' - it doesn't synch with anything.

[VXL V6]

Keys aren't synch'd to the ignition switch in any way, that's purely mechanical.

The fob part of the key is synced to the alarm module and the immobiliser chip is energised, read and confirmed as a valid chip by the immobiliser unit.

NCDC powering on without ignition after battery installation is common, I know for certain two of mine do it, the third one probably does as well but haven't had to swap the battery on that yet.

Re Spanner lamp - does it flash when you try and start the car? Also did both keys work (ie start the car) beforehand?

[Lazydocker]

The ignition barrel has stayed popped in... When you turn it the barrel normally goes in a couple of mm. try working it back and forth.

[Shackeng]

The ignition barrel has stayed popped in... When you turn it the barrel normally goes in a couple of mm. try working it back and forth.

I don't follow you here Paul. The keys are working fine to turn the ignition on and start the car, but neither of them will operate the door locks, so I assume it has something to do with the switch being changed and then refitted.

Battery on charge at present, so will have another go tomorrow, but pressing the fobs at position 11 did nothing when I tried earlier.

[Shackeng]

Keys aren't synch'd to the ignition switch in any way, that's purely mechanical.

The fob part of the key is synced to the alarm module and the immobiliser chip is energised, read and confirmed as a valid chip by the immobiliser unit.

NCDC powering on without ignition after battery installation is common, I know for certain two of mine do it, the third one probably does as well but haven't had to swap the battery on that yet.

Re Spanner lamp - does it flash when you try and start the car? Also did both keys work (ie start the car) beforehand?

I didn't notice, but will check when battery is charged. Both keys start the car OK.

[TheBoy]

but neither of them will operate the door locks, so I assume it has something to do with the switch being changed and then refitted.

No. That's a symptom of battery being flat/disconnected for an extended period.

Follow resync procedure I gave a few posts ago.

[Shackeng]

but neither of them will operate the door locks, so I assume it has something to do with the switch being changed and then refitted.

No. That's a symptom of battery being flat/disconnected for an extended period.

Follow resync procedure I gave a few posts ago.

Will do.

[Shackeng]

Battery now charged, and keys and remote locking work as normal. What is puzzling is that the battery appeared to by charged OK when I tried the keys previously, and the engine started fine, car drove fine, but just the remote locking didn't work. Put the battery on charge for a day, and now the remote works normally.
I suspect that I may have too much quiescent discharge from the battery, what is the best way to test for this, apart from disconnecting the batt. and putting an ammeter in series?

[Bigron]

A non-contact clamp meter with a Hall Effect sensor for DC is what you need:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ac-dc-clamp-meter/152887368588?hash=item2398cc1b8c:g:iZMAAOSwmSdaZ0OJ

Not cheap, but it will do DC current; the cheap ones only work on AC.

Ron.

[Shackeng]

Hmmm, I've just remembered I bought one of these last year and haven't tried it yet. http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/77069
I'll give it a try this weekend.

[Bigron]

That is a good tool, excellent for checking individual fuseways, which really is all you need to locate unacceptable current drains more precicely than the one I suggested.
My one is OK for total current drain.

Ron.