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[JamesV6CDX]

Failed MOT on F/NS bottom ball joint.

I’d rather do the ball joint alone rather than the arms, as they are poly bushed.

I don’t need to know how to change a ball joint, but can anyone advise on the best way to remove the rivets on the original?

Does the ‘bone need to be removed from the car for this?

Thanks

[aaronjb]

Grind the heads off, I suspect.. (and I'm sure that's what I've read) Maybe doable on the car depending on access and how long you want to lie in the snow..

[JamesV6CDX]

Grind the heads off, I suspect.. (and I'm sure that's what I've read) Maybe doable on the car depending on access and how long you want to lie in the snow..

As mentioned in other thread... while there’s white stuff on the ground, you’ll find me in the pub. It can wait

[JamesV6CDX]

I may even go to one of those places that hire out ramps. My back struggles working on the floor

Can do the exhaust then too

[Nick W]

Take the arm off the car, it's MUCH easier that way.
Grind the heads off the rivets, and hammer them out.
Fit the new joint with much less satisfactory bolts.


Personally, I would fit the poly bush to a new wishbone

[Enceladus]

I may even go to one of those places that hire out ramps. My back struggles working on the floor

Can do the exhaust then too

Do such places still exist? Had believed they fell foul of health and safety years ago.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Tried drilling the out on mine couple of years back and got sick of waiting, swapped Mr Drill for Mr Angle Grinder and they were off inseconds. As per any angle grinder work be careful, you don't want to make the metal any thinner on the actual wishbone. (it's thinner than you think, actually there)

As said above, definitely remove wishbone, also ideal time for a wire brush and repaint, as you're clearly treating these as serviceable items, rather than disposable.

[TheBoy]

Only ever done it once, I drilled the rivet heads off, then punched them through.

Take arm off the car, as Nick W says, far, far easier, and worth the extra 5 mins of hassle.

[Automaticman]

Think ill be doing this soon as I get a graunch as I pull on/off the drive right hand down 

[Nick W]

Think ill be doing this soon as I get a graunch as I pull on/off the drive right hand down 

I would be looking at the strut top mount and bearing rather than a ball joint

[deviator]

If you don't like using the death wheel, I drill and then chisel the head off.

[terry paget]

Think ill be doing this soon as I get a graunch as I pull on/off the drive right hand down 

I would be looking at the strut top mount and bearing rather than a ball joint

How can the tester detect play in strut top mount without dismantling? How can I?

[Doctor Gollum]

By rocking the wheel vigorously 12/6 and watching/listening/feeling for play up the strut

[Nick W]

Think ill be doing this soon as I get a graunch as I pull on/off the drive right hand down 

I would be looking at the strut top mount and bearing rather than a ball joint

How can the tester detect play in strut top mount without dismantling? How can I?

The noise is likely to be a dry(or knackered because it's dry) bearing. Don't expect to be able to feel that with everything assembled. The top mount is much the same; they look fine until you compare them to an uncompressed new one.
Removing the strut from the hub carrier to check properly WILL necessitate an alignment session. If the top parts are worn enough to present these symptoms, the strut itself won't be any better. And the springs have probably sagged. This is why the advice is to replace ALL of the wear components in one go. That isn't a cheap job, although it isn't a huge amount of work.

[Doctor Gollum]

£6-700 depending on what parts and how much poly to redo the entire suspension...

Worth every penny though