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[dave the builder]

rust proofing,rust prevention,  can of worms 
I look after all the family cars
brake pipes , I use wire wool to remove surface rust and examine the pipe
IF no deep pitting, I paint with kurust , let it completely dry
paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
repeated prior to MOT every year

chassis legs, sills, door skin bottoms etc remove rust ,treat with kurust paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
then spray inside with Suoertrol clicky

kurust won't cure rust , but it does stop it getting worse and provides a primer for other protection treatments

[Lizzie Zoom]

In which case get the chassis properly* steam cleaned.

*Properly in this context means once all the plastic bits that collect muck have been removed.

Once cleaned, any paint damage then needs to be repaired properly before reassembly.

Any local firms that export cars to New Zealand or Oz should be able to advise as both are a bit tetchy about importing dirt.

You could of course take the Tunnie/Terry approach to Omega care.

Thanks DG

[Lizzie Zoom]

rust proofing,rust prevention,  can of worms 
I look after all the family cars
brake pipes , I use wire wool to remove surface rust and examine the pipe
IF no deep pitting, I paint with kurust , let it completely dry
paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
repeated prior to MOT every year

chassis legs, sills, door skin bottoms etc remove rust ,treat with kurust paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
then spray inside with Suoertrol clicky

kurust won't cure rust , but it does stop it getting worse and provides a primer for other protection treatments

Got both of those in my garage stocks so will be using them

[dave the builder]

rust proofing,rust prevention,  can of worms 
I look after all the family cars
brake pipes , I use wire wool to remove surface rust and examine the pipe
IF no deep pitting, I paint with kurust , let it completely dry
paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
repeated prior to MOT every year

chassis legs, sills, door skin bottoms etc remove rust ,treat with kurust paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
then spray inside with Suoertrol clicky

kurust won't cure rust , but it does stop it getting worse and provides a primer for other protection treatments

Got both of those in my garage stocks so will be using them

get some supertrol too Lizzie 

google it , it's good stuff

or you can go down the bar and chain chainsaw oil if you have a big compressor 
or you can pay about £500 to have your car rust proofed like Ian ,hubnut clicky did to a crappy skoda     

[Lizzie Zoom]

rust proofing,rust prevention,  can of worms 
I look after all the family cars
brake pipes , I use wire wool to remove surface rust and examine the pipe
IF no deep pitting, I paint with kurust , let it completely dry
paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
repeated prior to MOT every year

chassis legs, sills, door skin bottoms etc remove rust ,treat with kurust paint with hammerite or zinc galvanising spray paint
then spray inside with Suoertrol clicky

kurust won't cure rust , but it does stop it getting worse and provides a primer for other protection treatments

Got both of those in my garage stocks so will be using them

get some supertrol too Lizzie 

google it , it's good stuff

or you can go down the bar and chain chainsaw oil if you have a big compressor 
or you can pay about £500 to have your car rust proofed like Ian ,hubnut clicky did to a crappy skoda     

I think I will stick with the supertrol

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Whether you want to on brake lines or not be up to you, but the best rust killer (and one of the very very few that actually work, I've tried several, Hammerites kurust being an example of one which does sweet fa) is a product called fe123 from Rustbuster.
 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

I would use wire wool on the brake pipes. 

[BazaJT]

Is it still on steel brakepipes? If so fit Kunifer pipes or[if you must] copper pipes and forget about them they'll see the car out.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

That also. If the steel pipes ar still in good order, then of course if it aint broke dont fix it etc... however I spend my life smothering love and attention on my brake lines but still had to replace two so far, and I presume the 'mirrored' pipe on the other side wont be far behind. My last one looked 'fine' until I disturbed it and a little tear of brake fluid then appeared. 

Can pay for them to be made, but for the price of one you could buy the gear and make them on the dining table over a cuppa. 

[Lizzie Zoom]

Whether you want to on brake lines or not be up to you, but the best rust killer (and one of the very very few that actually work, I've tried several, Hammerites kurust being an example of one which does sweet fa) is a product called fe123 from Rustbuster.
 

Thanks for that

I've looked up the prices and it is certainly not cheap, but if it does the job, so be it!

[Diamond Black Geezer]

By all means have a Google, see the reviews, group tests from Practical Classics etc, who've tried it. And you're right, its not, and that's about the only criticism anyone has of it. However one thought I did have is the piddly 100ml bottle of kurust or whatever, versus the 500ml (I think) of the fe123, when you work out the pence per ml cost, it isn't as bad as it first feels.

The nasty scab of floorpan rust under the carpets which I treated with the stuff is currently outlasting the not-cheap professional spray job on my back arches, which have started to bubble again. 

I also have used it on my NS rear wishbone, with their epoxy 121 paint, its had a winter, so I'll inspect when I get a day off and see how its fared 

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

I use Bilthamber for rust treatment and Supertrol to prevent it, and get pretty good results.
I was having to treat my rear arches after every winter, as they started showing the first signs of bubbling. Last time I did them I sprayed Supertrol into the places that aren't visible. Especially on the seams of the arches inside the boot. This year there is no sign of the bubbling trying to rear its head.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

I use Bilthamber for rust treatment and Supertrol to prevent it, and get pretty good results.
I was having to treat my rear arches after every winter, as they started showing the first signs of bubbling. Last time I did them I sprayed Supertrol into the places that aren't visible. Especially on the seams of the arches inside the boot. This year there is no sign of the bubbling trying to rear its head.

Good to know 

[Lizzie Zoom]

I use Bilthamber for rust treatment and Supertrol to prevent it, and get pretty good results.
I was having to treat my rear arches after every winter, as they started showing the first signs of bubbling. Last time I did them I sprayed Supertrol into the places that aren't visible. Especially on the seams of the arches inside the boot. This year there is no sign of the bubbling trying to rear its head.

Good to know 

Indeed, and I have got many choices to make now!  Thanks 

[Lizzie Zoom]

As above 

But time better spent taking the plastic sills, plastic rear arch liners off, followed by lifting the front end and removing the wheels then bashing the front rails, sills and lower rear arch with a screwdriver to asses how much rot there is.

Right, I am now sych'd up to remove them to inspect whatever is underneath, which a specialist car body shop looked at 2+ years ago and said were fine. But now after the various posts on here I feel I must look at the sills whilst I am decrudding the springs and brake pipes.

How do you remove them though without breaking the fixings and then replace them afterwards please?

Never done this job on any Omega I have owned, but I know from past experiences on other cars the clips that must hold on the sills will be brittle, or will they?

Does not seem to be any guides on this job, so advice would be very welcome please!!