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[deviator]

Thanks for thelp. Much apprecited.

Thank us when it passes and that is the right part to solve the issue.

Has it had an oil change recently?

[addy]

The thanks is for all the help. Even if it doesn't go through, all the suggestions have given me somewhere to start.

Got intouch with Genuine parts. They said the sensor was a genuine one, so ordered one. Just had a email to tell me that they don't have it in stock as it is no longer available, but they can supply a aftermarket one.

[Doctor Gollum]

Try the US

[dave the builder]

The thanks is for all the help. Even if it doesn't go through, all the suggestions have given me somewhere to start.

Got intouch with Genuine parts. They said the sensor was a genuine one, so ordered one. Just had a email to tell me that they don't have it in stock as it is no longer available, but they can supply a aftermarket one.

you can pick up an aftermarket one from any decent motor factors to save waiting for deliveries

genuine £10 slow post clicky

plenty of others on ebay too

but check live data if possible first ,your sensor may be fine
worth checking the wet stat is not stuck open (stopping the engine ever reaching running temp)

if this is the car that had a headgasket replaced  lambdas could be contaminated
again, live data would show if they where switching,reading correct voltage

and consider my earlier advice about cataclean and warming engine up and cat before retest
if you have an ohm meter/multi-meter ,you can test the temp sensor for resistance 

info here clicky topbuzz website

[dave the builder]

actually,looking at the part number 90411977 vauxhall quote is a square plug, like the carlton one 
yet 90573077 is oval
so you probably need to check what plug type is actually fitted

[addy]

Thanks Dave the Builder.

Yes it did have the Headgasket go. The number for the part you gave is different to the one given to me, by Vauxhall dealership 90411977. I have been looking for their number, but if genuine is not needed that is great.

Got a new Catalyst coming this week, as I ordered a full exhaust because the one on car, was rotten.

Car is off road now, as the MOT said two tyres are below minimum, so cannot be driven until changed. Can only get live data on the drive.
 

[dave the builder]

Live data on the drive will be fine for testing the CTS (temp sensor) and lambdas 
IIRC you have the "code reader that can't be named" 
that will show you temp sensor in degrees and voltage ,
and the lambdas switching rich/lean and voltage 
and because the original cat is 23 years old and contaminated by headgasket failure and the poor condition of the rest of the exhaust, your probably on the right track
but live data is your best bet
good luck 

[addy]

You do indeed remember correct about code reader 

The last reading got for the O2 Sensor, it was dropping into open loop every now and then. Probably did it just as high idle, was being done knowing my luck.

[dave the builder]

It's easy to replace the lambdas while the exhaust is off
they get tired after 80k anyway
not all that expensive either anymore
and if it was dropping out when you read live data ,
it sounds like replacement while the exhaust is off may be a good idea 

[Dave Ghost]

Give the car a good service, all filters and plugs if needed. Also take the sonder out and give it a good clean. that normally does the trick.

[Kevin Wood]

If you have live data, I'd also check the fuel trims aren't wandering off too far. If they are, it could be a MAF sensor failure although the front lambda sensor is also a possibility.

Check that there aren't any leaks into the exhaust system too. On the 4 pots, cracks in the exhaust manifold, failed studs and failed exhaust flexi sections can all cause the lambda sensor to mis-read and affect fuelling accuracy. This is in addition to intake air leaks, all of which will see the fuel trims wander off zero.

That said, the lambda isn't that far off and, although that reading is prone to error on the MOT analysers, the fact that you have a little HC present as well at a reasonable lambda makes me think the cat might have seen better days. Check the engine is getting up to normal operating temperature, though.

[Doctor Gollum]

Had a similar issue with the emissions on my MoT.

First go, all good except CO...

Tester reckoned that it was simply because the cat wasn't quite hot enough.

I always take the  car for a 10 mile thrash and present it at the appointment time so there is minimal sitting around, but they always do the emissions test right at the end so the car sits for a bit.

Second go saw it drop from 0.38 to 0.05.

[Enceladus]

If you have live data, I'd also check the fuel trims aren't wandering off too far. If they are, it could be a MAF sensor failure although the front lambda sensor is also a possibility.

It's a 1995 2.0L so it doesn't have a pre-cat.  It should be just the one lambda sensor before the main cat, isn't it? There's no post cat sensor to indicate that the cat is working properly as there is on the 2.2. These sensors have an 'official' life of about 60,000 miles. Factor in old age, means it probably needs replacing in any event. I'd be inclined to eliminate the MAF as an issue, replace the sensor and measure the emissions at the tail-pipe. If they're still out then try the cataclean, but might well be that you need a new catalytic downpipe.

[Doctor Gollum]

Should still show a code if the sensor is out of limits or not working 

[Kevin Wood]

If you have live data, I'd also check the fuel trims aren't wandering off too far. If they are, it could be a MAF sensor failure although the front lambda sensor is also a possibility.

It's a 1995 2.0L so it doesn't have a pre-cat.  It should be just the one lambda sensor before the main cat, isn't it? There's no post cat sensor to indicate that the cat is working properly as there is on the 2.2. These sensors have an 'official' life of about 60,000 miles. Factor in old age, means it probably needs replacing in any event. I'd be inclined to eliminate the MAF as an issue, replace the sensor and measure the emissions at the tail-pipe. If they're still out then try the cataclean, but might well be that you need a new catalytic downpipe.

Yes, right you are. IIRC, the 2.0 has the less common titania lambda sensor, too, so be careful to get the correct type if changing it.