Code readers... what to buy?

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Ancel fx6000 brought 1 the other month,wont do x type jag but newer jags,also vw/audi 1994 onwards with the 2 plug diagnostics,adapters included for mitsubishi,toyota,gm/daewoo,kia,citroen/peugeot,bmw,and some others.used it on the Kia Sorento and insignia,and does the job,also different abilities due to what car its used on.

The "official" Tech 2 equivalent for Volvo is Vida/Dice this can be bought for home use on a laptop.

Thanks muchly 

[TheBoy]

To answer the OP....

The only Omegas that are EOBD (EU's version of OBDII) are:
2.6 V6
3.2 V6
2.2 DTi*
2.2 petrol*

Thus older V6's do not work with generic readers, whatever the seller may claim about it working with post 1996 cars.

Officially, a 1996 Omega is a Tech1 or Tech1a car, and needs the Omega cartridge and the Omega multiplexor module (or a bit of resoldering).

However, the Tech2 is much more capable, and works on *all* Omegas with the exception of the following modules:
IR Locking
IR Immobiliser
U25DT engine ECU (the DDE 2.0 management system fitted to 1994/5 Omega TDs)


The Volvo will be EOBD, and thus work on any generic EOBD compliant reader that supports the correct protocols, which most new ones will.  You will likely only get basic info (ie, P codes) from the engine management, and possibly drivetrain.  Some, but not all, can read manufacturer specific codes (U codes), though cant decode them.


Manufacturer, dealer level, diag tools allow the full suite of diags, upgrades and reconfigurations that the dealer gets, though the tools are expensive, and usually require ongoing licencing.  Even then, in some cases, some functions are locked out to all but franchised dealers.


3rd party tools aimed at specific manufacturers, such as the aforementioned iCarsoft, tend to be a significant step down from the dealer level stuff, and usually can only communicate with a small subset of the onboard systems.


The rather hopeless tool that cannot be mentioned is pretty rubbish when you buy the €600 original.  The Chinese £20 ebay clones are a lot worse, and can be dangerous to the car - I used to make a tidy profit off collecting ECUs from the scrappy and reprogramming them for cars that said tool had destroyed.  Whilst in general it seems OK for reading codes from most of the systems it can talk to on the Omega, I would be ultra cautious plugging it in to a Tech1 car.


*These seem to be strictly EOBD, and some OBDII readers struggle with them

[Doctor Gollum]

The iCarsoft for BMW can programme/calibrate the parking sensors as an example of functionality

[TheBoy]

The iCarsoft for BMW can programme/calibrate the parking sensors as an example of functionality

But its a significant step down from the real stuff, and only does a small subset of onboard systems.

It may be a decent enough option, but its certainly expensive and far from generic (unless you tend to stick to one marque in your car fleet).

[TheBoy]

The iCarsoft for BMW can programme/calibrate the parking sensors as an example of functionality

Plus, don't ask me how I know how little it does on BMWs .

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Thanks TB, that gives some good 'from the horses mouth' info, ta.

Always wanted to be in the right place / right time to see a Tech 1 / 2 going cheap, garage clearout, etc. May do one day, be the ultimate 'toy'

Will therefore direct my search onto something suitably cheap n cheerful to do geberal stuff on the Volvo/mates' cars, and look at Omega-related options elsewhere.... though that choice looks like it's either the code reader of no name, or a paperclip! 

[Auto Addict]

I've got an icarsoft MBII for the Merc, does everything I need.

[TheBoy]

I've got an icarsoft MBII for the Merc, does everything I need.

I suspect, Mr AA, the dashboard alone does all you need

Seeing as you CBA to change the battery

[Auto Addict]

I've got an icarsoft MBII for the Merc, does everything I need.

I suspect, Mr AA, the dashboard alone does all you need

Seeing as you CBA to change the battery

When you get to my age sonny, you will have difficulty lifting out a battery from the back of the engine

[Andy B]

I've got an icarsoft MBII for the Merc, does everything I need.

I suspect, Mr AA, the dashboard alone does all you need

Seeing as you CBA to change the battery

When you get to my age sonny, you will have difficulty lifting out a battery from the back of the engine

You're lucky you can even see your battery/batteries ..... I've 1 under my seat & another somewhere at the rear offside of my ML 

[Doctor Gollum]

I've got an icarsoft MBII for the Merc, does everything I need.

I suspect, Mr AA, the dashboard alone does all you need

Seeing as you CBA to change the battery

When you get to my age sonny, you will have difficulty lifting out a battery from the back of the engine

You're lucky you can even see your battery/batteries ..... I've 1 under my seat & another somewhere at the rear offside of my ML 

Both under your seat 

1. Remove the carpet section and footwell vent ducting.
2. Unbolt the clamp at the rear of the main battery.
3. Hoik out main battery with electricuting yourself or breaking your spine.
4. Dig out the secondary battery from the outside edge of the cavity left by 3.

Not too bad in the scheme of things

[Andy B]

I've got an icarsoft MBII for the Merc, does everything I need.

I suspect, Mr AA, the dashboard alone does all you need

Seeing as you CBA to change the battery

When you get to my age sonny, you will have difficulty lifting out a battery from the back of the engine

You're lucky you can even see your battery/batteries ..... I've 1 under my seat & another somewhere at the rear offside of my ML 

Both under your seat 

1. Remove the carpet section and footwell vent ducting.
2. Unbolt the clamp at the rear of the main battery.
3. Hoik out main battery with electricuting yourself or breaking your spine.
4. Dig out the secondary battery from the outside edge of the cavity left by 3.

Not too bad in the scheme of things

The 2nd battery is definitely at the back of the car ..... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_REzrHrFOOY 

[Auto Addict]

I've got an icarsoft MBII for the Merc, does everything I need.

I suspect, Mr AA, the dashboard alone does all you need

Seeing as you CBA to change the battery

When you get to my age sonny, you will have difficulty lifting out a battery from the back of the engine

You're lucky you can even see your battery/batteries ..... I've 1 under my seat & another somewhere at the rear offside of my ML 

Both under your seat 

1. Remove the carpet section and footwell vent ducting.
2. Unbolt the clamp at the rear of the main battery.
3. Hoik out main battery with electricuting yourself or breaking your spine.
4. Dig out the secondary battery from the outside edge of the cavity left by 3.

Not too bad in the scheme of things

The 2nd battery is definitely at the back of the car ..... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_REzrHrFOOY 

Aux. battery in mine is in the back, have to remove the spare wheel to get at it.

Thinking of putting a voltage display somewhere in the back to give me a read out as to it's condition.

[Doctor Gollum]

That's bizarre. The GL, essentially a long wheelbase ML, has it as above (unless that only applies to lhd )

[Andy B]

That's bizarre. The GL, essentially a long wheelbase ML, has it as above (unless that only applies to lhd )

It's definitely at the back. If I remove the cover to access the back of the rear lights I can just see one of the terminals. 

ISTR that the Interweb suggested the R Class had two batteries under the driver's (rhd) seat but there was actually only one .