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Omega B2 3.0 V6 Executive from scrap to sunshine

Started by RallyArde, 03 February 2024, 15:35:39

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RallyArde

Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 25 June 2024, 16:21:51
Did you weld the inner and outer together, or use panel bond? From the factory, they're glued together...

Yeah, I did notice they are glued, but I thought in this case its wiser to just spot weld them together, eventhoug that´s not full OEM solution :)
Omega - when bad camber is actually a good camber

Doctor Gollum

Did you weld the whole arch or just the repair?
Onanists always think outside the box.

RallyArde

Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 25 June 2024, 16:40:54
Did you weld the whole arch or just the repair?

Well.. there is no "lip" at original section of the inner arch, so maybe that´s your answer ;)


Back in to business, I´ve started the rear axle rebuilt:





I dropped the whole beam down as one package, but in these pictures I´ve already released the subframe for cleaning up.



All the dirt and rust removed.



Spred some alcydic paint to subframe and to those supporting plates. I can´t wait to see inspectors face at the MoT ;D


Then it would time to start assemble things back togehter... but I need clean some rust from the underside of the cars chassis as well, looks like only surface rust :)
Omega - when bad camber is actually a good camber

RallyArde

Some progress again... :)

https://youtu.be/wXalty3j11w

I also added part codes for original bushes at the end of the vid ;)


I´ve already ordered new gear selector seal for the automatic gearbox, so I´ll be sorting that out soon, at least trying to ;D
Omega - when bad camber is actually a good camber

RallyArde

The project nearly stopped, well for three weeks at least:

https://youtu.be/MN4tH5s5NNU

There are actually few minor things still before MoT left to be done. Exhaust flanges both right and left are sligthly leaking after I installed it back, so possibly they just arent´t sitting correctly. Also I need to change those 17" OEM wheels to the car. So were are not far off... :)
Omega - when bad camber is actually a good camber

dave the builder


RallyArde

Thanks! :)

Car got an MoT pass at Monday 8)

Few pics of what happened during the last few weeks:





The whole rear beam rebuilt and fitted back to the chassis.



Frontend done as well.





Managed to replace selector shaft seal, eventually, and both sump gaskets.





Leaky radiator replaced by brand new one.





Quick wash to get all the dust off from it  ::)



Proper rims finally ;)



After I got that MoT pass, I checked gearbox oil level and added 0.3 litres of ATF, so it should be good for now. Next monday will get this car to allignment. Just can´t wait to see the improvement of handling after that and how that LSD works at actual limits of grip ;D
Omega - when bad camber is actually a good camber

Migv6 le Frog Fan

Love to see a restoration project thread like this. Look forward to further updates.  :y
Its weird being the same age as old people !

RallyArde

Thanks again for your feedback! :)

Yesterday car got allignment done, so it drives now like Omega should 8)  Steering is beautifully light, allthough after E90 325i it feels a bit... weird ;D







I fabricated new bracket for the battery, cause previous owner (or one of the ten of them ::)  ) had lost it and battery was supported with single washer.







Also took a bit longer drive (140km) with this one through nice B-roads. Car also seems pretty driftable now, eventhough I got drive more carefully nowdays, cause I´ve already lost my driving license once for... drifting :-X  And that V6 sound under acceleration is just so raw, compared to inline-6 in my daily BMW >:D



Pulled some trailer as well, there is certainly enough torque for that ;) 


By this far the car is almost finished, but I still have future plans, maybe manual-conversion, maybe better exhaust, etc... We´ll see.
Omega - when bad camber is actually a good camber

Doctor Gollum

What are the alignment settings?

The steering shouldn't feel overly light, but there's always a very slight dead spot straight ahead... This is a normal side effect of a steering box when compared to a rack, but weird is never a positive description. :-\
Onanists always think outside the box.

RallyArde

Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 03 September 2024, 11:06:03
What are the alignment settings?

The steering shouldn't feel overly light, but there's always a very slight dead spot straight ahead... This is a normal side effect of a steering box when compared to a rack, but weird is never a positive description. :-\

There must be some kind of misunderstanding... :) but what I meant that steering feels completely normal, like in all Omegas that I`ve driven, hence "beautifully light" ;)  Point was that after BMWs heavy steering I had to get used to it again ;D

Allignment is spot on and was done to factory tolerances with proper equipment and by professional mechanic.
Omega - when bad camber is actually a good camber

Doctor Gollum

#26
That's not the answer to my question.

I was after specific numbers, because the "official" settings are as vague as a politician being asked a question.

Light, beautiful or otherwise, suggests an issue. That's not to say that the Omega has particularly heavy steering... One finger with some weight rather than both hands... But from experience, when an Omega has light steering, it's usually followed about 1,000 miles later with dangerously worn tyres.

Perhaps the definition of light is more subjective than it should be, but nevertheless, the actual numbers from your alignment will confirm how 'correct' the alignment is  ;)
Onanists always think outside the box.

RallyArde

#27
Quote from: Doctor Gollum on 03 September 2024, 12:42:18
That's not the answer to my question.

I was after specific numbers, because the "official" settings are as vague as a politician being asked a question.

Light, beautiful or otherwise, suggests an issue. That's not to say that the Omega has particularly heavy steering... One finger with some weight rather than both hands... But from experience, when an Omega has light steering, it's usually followed about 1,000 miles later with dangerously worn tyres.

Perhaps the definition of light is more subjective than it should be, but nevertheless, the actual numbers from your alignment will confirm how 'correct' the alignment is  ;)

Could you then share for all of us, what are the correct figures for Omega (with stock suspension) in camber, caster and toe-in values? Would be easier to make a comparison after that to see how much off my allignment is with factory spec settings. I was given a document from the allignment as well, so I can then compare.
Omega - when bad camber is actually a good camber

Doctor Gollum

They're readily available here with some digging, but I will try and find them to post a link ;)

Basically a firm in the UK took the time to establish the ultimate specific setting for the Omega about 15 years ago and they've not been improved on since. The difference between an Omega set "in the green" and one set spot on is like chalk and cheese.

Bare bones is 1°10"  negative camber, 0°03" toe in at the front,

Thrust angle of 0°00 at the rear. The rear toe and camber are whatever they end up at to get the thrust angle at 0°00.

These are the same regardless of Standard, HD or LSC suspension.
Onanists always think outside the box.

Doctor Gollum

This thread gives some insight into the murky depths, but there are several thousand posts on the subject over the years.

https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=38995.0

Front settings:
Camber -1°10"
Caster ~ 4.5° to 5.5° ideally similar side to side and can be improved by moving the subframe.
Toe 0°03" to 0°05" toe in. Total toe 0°06" to 0°10" and even side to side.

Rear:
Thrust angle 0°00
Camber and toe should be similar side to side, but they are a single adjustment and the only number that matters is that the thrust angle is Zero. Nothing more or less, not even a gnats cock either way.

Onanists always think outside the box.