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[Lizzie Zoom]

For some months now I have put up with a niggling, but not crucial, issue when turning off the ignition.

I turn the key to the usual off position, but it does not get there every time as it should!  All too often the key cannot be turned fully to the final off position, so cannot be withdrawn.  The key is "captured". This is NOT every time, but all too often a very niggling thing that means I have to turn the key back to the first "power on" state before the turn to start the engine, and move the auto gear change  backwards and forwards, maybe also pressing the "ice" button, until eventually I can finally turn the key to remove it.  Sometimes this is a quick, 3 second process, other times 30 seconds of playing with the gears.  Sometimes it needs a restart of the engine, a quick rev of it, then back to key out position!

I have also noted this is often aften I have been in reverse.

Does anyone have any idea please of what could be wrong, and what I can do to fix?

Many thanks.

[ronnyd]

Does the key feel ok when you insert it? Just wondering if the switch internal parts are getting worn.

[Doctor Gollum]

Stripping the lock barrel down cleaning and rebuilding is a good starting point although if it's been doing it a while it might be time for a new barrel.

https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90590.0#new

If you have your car pass, then a replacement barrel and key set should be easy enough to get.

Whether new or second hand,.you only require the key blade(s) and lock cylinders for BOTH the ignition and door.

You categorically DO NOT require the transponder chip, fob or any other electrical components. Anyone who tells you different needs a slap.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Does the key feel ok when you insert it? Just wondering if the switch internal parts are getting worn.

Yes, all feels good; as it should, until that moment of turning off the ignition.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Stripping the lock barrel down cleaning and rebuilding is a good starting point although if it's been doing it a while it might be time for a new barrel.

https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90590.0#new

If you have your car pass, then a replacement barrel and key set should be easy enough to get.

Whether new or second hand,.you only require the key blade(s) and lock cylinders for BOTH the ignition and door.

You categorically DO NOT require the transponder chip, fob or any other electrical components. Anyone who tells you different needs a slap.

Thanks DG

I will have to do some investigating .  I may try some lock graphite to see if that can lubricate whatever part is sticking before doing a strip down.

[TheBoy]

It could also be the range switch on the gearbox, as from memory that has a lock in the ignition.

[Doctor Gollum]

It could also be the range switch on the gearbox, as from memory that has a lock in the ignition.

Push the shifter forwards from park and hold it as you turn the key to 0. If that proves things then you've found the culprit 

[polilara]

I have something similar but not related to reversing. When I drive the car to garage and turn ignition off very often the lock drum does not to get that far that I could remove the key. Shifter is in P position (auto). Then I put ignition on again and try to turn it back very fast (high speed). That helps after a couple of tries. My issue started about two years ago so that I could turn lock to off position and remove key but I did not hear the last 'Click' and could not push key back to lock. I had to turn the lock with the nose of the key slihgtly more to off direction, then I heard the Click and was able to push the key back there. I am going to dissassemble the lock as long as I can do it without drilling machine.

[JamesV6CDX]

Lizzie, this often happens when the gear selector gubbins gets a bit worn and needs adjustment.

From memory, one can only remove the key with the trans in Park (and maybe neutral).

Next time try pushing the gear lever into P more firmly to the end of its travel and report back

(I’ve had to do this for the last 12 months  )

[Lizzie Zoom]

Lizzie, this often happens when the gear selector gubbins gets a bit worn and needs adjustment.

From memory, one can only remove the key with the trans in Park (and maybe neutral).

Next time try pushing the gear lever into P more firmly to the end of its travel and report back

(I’ve had to do this for the last 12 months  )

Thanks for all the above advice in regards to the gearbox and the ignition key issues.

I have taken on board all the comments on the lock barrel itself, but today, once again, I had the same issue.  I reversed into my garage, turned the key to turn the engine off, but could not do that, but not turn the key so far as for it to be released in position 1.  As usual now, when this happens, I turn the key to the position where the dash lights come on, without starting the engine, move the gear selector from "P" to "D",  then back to "P", and the key was released in position 1.

So, as suggested, Could this be correct please?     

I am certainly going to be in my garage tomorrow to investigate along those lines, and use the locksmith graphite in the barrel to ensure there is no "sticking" there.

Thanks for all the advise

[polilara]

I went to my garage and put ignition on. Then several times I tried to turn the key back in selector positions 1, 2, 3, D, N, R and P. Key could be taken away only in position P. In other selector positions turning the key stopped much earlier than what usually happens to me. So my failure is not related to selector which I renewed some years ago. When my failure occurs key turns to position it should turn but key cannot removed, anyhow.