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[polilara]

I am just changing timing kit to my Y26SE, found that cam seals are a bit wet. Last summer I changed cam covers and they are dry. So can I remove sprockets and change seals without taking away covers. I know that crank in 4.00 I can turn cams etc. Belt and everythinh is off now. Is there a locking tool for individual sprockets e g. to the holes in sprockets to hokd them when opening the screw?

[Nick W]

I suppose it's possible to do it that way but as you've got to remove the cam belt and backing plate to access the seals, you're not going to save much time/work leaving the cam covers in place. And it's much easier to change the seals after loosening the front cam caps rather than prying the old ones out and hoping you get the new ones in without damage.


You would be mental if you don't change the crank seal as part of this job.


With the backing plate out of the way, the thermostat and transfer tube can be removed and replaced without separating them so a new stat would be another sensible while you're in there job too

[polilara]

Thanks Nick W, yes crank seal too, after removed the central bolt I have to remove crank sprocket. Do I need special puller for that or do it just drop out. Do I have to renew the Bolt? Back plate holes seem to be bigger than cam seals' outer dia. I remove plate anyway as I want to clean it. Perhaps I buy a couple of cam seals and try to change them and then take the covers away..., and change the seals.

[TheBoy]

I think the GM documentation says you have to replace the bolt.  I do recall its a bugger of a bolt to remove, and you will have to find some way of locking the crank, as the bolt is proper tight!

[Nick W]

The timing pulley isn't particularly tight on the crank, but it does benefit from  a basic puller to draw it off.


I made mine from some 10mm thick steel, that uses two of the original aux belt pulley bolts, and a threaded centre hole for the draw bolt. A bit like this:





I did make it from a much longer bar, so I could wedge it against the water pump to lock the crank to undo the crank bolt which is really tight. Loosening the bolt is by far the worst part of changing the crank seal.

[RallyArde]

I think the GM documentation says you have to replace the bolt.  I do recall its a bugger of a bolt to remove, and you will have to find some way of locking the crank, as the bolt is proper tight!

Actually there should be a locking tool for the crank, KM 911, it sets to the fly wheel teeth and holds the cranks still while un-doing or tightening the bolt

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/655687185

 

[polilara]

Thanks for all useful tips. I try to lock the crank to floor with something and use impact driver, I have up to about 1100Nm. Let' see. I think impact driver is Ok also for cams when opening. When tightening cams I need something which I did not yet find. There must be lockin tools for cams, from its holes etc.

[polilara]

Cam sprockets all off. Found long special bolts of them. They have a thin section in the middle of length. Can they be reused? If not where to get new ones? Has anyone spare numbers. If yes is the 50Nm + 60 degrees + 15 degrees still valid or just "bang them up", like someone said here when we discussed about wishbone bolts.

[polilara]

Found interesting tool.

[polilara]

https://www.straightset.co.uk/bahco-be523106-sprocket-holding-wrench-universal.html

[polilara]

Hello
Do anybody know do I have to renew crank and cam central bolts, and if yes have anyone spare numbers for them. Tips where to find also welcome.

[Doctor Gollum]

https://www.straightset.co.uk/bahco-be523106-sprocket-holding-wrench-universal.html

Wouldn't recommend that on the Omega... The cam sprockets are sintered and likely to shatter if you use a tool like that to hold them...

Much better off using the machined flats on the camshafts that are actually designed for the job.

[polilara]

Thanks DG for this warning, better to take covers off as earlier recommended. I think that I have oil leak from all 4 cams, oil came down behind back plate, also crank area is wet. Crank bolt was tight, really tight.

[VXL V6]

Found interesting tool.

Looking at that picture confirms, it's usually the exhaust cam seal that goes first, certainly the case on various Omega's i've owned.

[polilara]

Ok, hopefully leaks stop. How about reuse of bolts: Cams/crank?