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[Webby the Bear]

It’s cool DG cos I’ve already done the filter conversion.

Was just curious about any issues anyone ever experienced.

I don’t need to do this job. I’m just bi-curious 🥰

[Doctor Gollum]

Had heard 

[Webby the Bear]

🤣

[Marks DTM Calib]

Ps.. though I’ve never had to do this job I often look at those two unions above the oil filter and they just don’t look like they’d come out 🤣🤣

Anyone ever had issues with them? I suppose absolute worst case scenario you’d end up chopping the pipe above the nut and getting a 6 sided socket on it. Just wondering if anyone ever had issue?

As per above, filter off,, crows foot spanner, tighten slightly, then undo.

Never had an issue to date with them.  (probably done many tens of them over the years, including Opti's whilst it was on his drive!)

[Webby the Bear]

Great to know, thanks Mark 👍👍👍

[JamesV6CDX]

A used, stainless cooler, is likely to be fine. You'll need to source dowty seals, coolant bridge seals, union-to-cooler seals, grey RTV, cooler-to-plate o-rings, oil filter housing seal etc. But, a stainless, used cooler will be fine.

The old style coolers (which corrode) have protrusions on the top of the cooler radiator - whereas the stainless ones are completely flat on the top edge.

Here is the old stlye, known to corrode:



Here is the newer, stainless type, flat on top:



And, food for thought - I am currently in discussion with a European firm, about a bulk buy of these:




Ultimately it's almost impossible to get a new, original cooler these days (or they are astronomically priced)... so worth at least exploring potential other options / viable alternatives