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[kaisergaragerpt]

So Spanner light flashing - immobiliser issue. You say its not that

Spanner light on - Engine ECU detected a (non emissions) fault and will have stored a code

Engine light flashing or on - emissions fault, read code

The only code is the crank sensor but I believe it's because the engine isn't running. In live data I can see more than 350 rpm on crank

[kaisergaragerpt]

How about air mass meter? Faulty causes such symptoms.

Unplugged and nothing changed. Live data saying all good with air flow

[Doctor Gollum]

How about air mass meter? Faulty causes such symptoms.

Unplugged and nothing changed. Live data saying all good with air flow

Surely that suggests an issue. It should figure out that the airflow hasn't changed during cranking/running

[TheBoy]

So Spanner light flashing - immobiliser issue. You say its not that

Spanner light on - Engine ECU detected a (non emissions) fault and will have stored a code

Engine light flashing or on - emissions fault, read code

The only code is the crank sensor but I believe it's because the engine isn't running. In live data I can see more than 350 rpm on crank

On 2.5/3.0 a 19 code is a failed sensor, regardless of anything else

On a 2.6/3.2 a 0335 code is a failed sensor, regarldess of anything else


(failed sensor is most likely the sensor, but could be loom of reluctor)

[kaisergaragerpt]

How about air mass meter? Faulty causes such symptoms.

Unplugged and nothing changed. Live data saying all good with air flow

Surely that suggests an issue. It should figure out that the airflow hasn't changed during cranking/running

I put it the wrong way i meant -nothing change, still wont start but then i disconected the iac also, the one above maf and the engine run at the 1st turn of the key! but flooring it kills it and its normal, ecu cant measure the air so probl lean.

[kaisergaragerpt]

Ty all but im back to the beginning. Its Immo after spending a day chasing it its defnt the immo.


1st I thought since it reeks of gas maybe flooded and my sparkplugs are wet and i dont like them that way so changed to 6 new ones something like this


the old ones were in fact wet so i cranked and it started but couldnt keep stable idle and eventualy after some 4 tries it flooded again so I did this procedure to cut off gas at cranking that is flooring it and then trurn the key and crank for 15sec  the ecu stops sending gas to evaporate the cylinders.

but then even that didnt work and then I tried the maf and iac again and that didnt work as well so I'm doing all this tests and seeing the conditions degrating and the results getting worse and i remembered to check the fuel lines and regulater and pump etc to see if it primes well on turning key and nothing not one drop into the cup

so I check the fuse and relay and the 1st thing i do is shunt the 30 87 and the pump starts streaming hard  then I  test the relay 85 86 giving 12v and it clicks so I go to the relay ports and 30 87 is giving like 13v ok but the 85 86 is 0v  85 being controled by ECU -> Immo

So now I put the shunt back in the 30 87 so plenty of gas but still wont start I guess the ECU controls the spark also.


What confuses me the most is that seems intermitent as some times it starts  but defnly worsen by the hour.

[kaisergaragerpt]

Guys just to clarify, this is the part i need? there isn't another immo box right?

[Doctor Gollum]

You did read what I said regarding the immobiliser... 

You need that price, the chip and the engine ECU and they all must come from the same car. Or be brand new and dealer supplied/fitted using the car pass for your car.

[Doctor Gollum]

Also,.you mention replacing the banjo seals.

Which ones?

Did you unplug any electrical connectors at the back of the engine?

If yes, check the plugs on the purge valve and the ECU temperature sensor.

Physically the plugs fit both. But... The purge valve uses 12v, the temp sensor uses 5v.

Get them confused and it kills the temp sensor.

Using live data, the engine temp and guage temp should be almost the same. If they are more than 5% apart then you have got the plugs switched and you have killed the ECU temp sensor.

Check this and report back.

[kaisergaragerpt]

You did read what I said regarding the immobiliser... 

You need that price, the chip and the engine ECU and they all must come from the same car. Or be brand new and dealer supplied/fitted using the car pass for your car.

Oh that makes it more expensive then I thought. I have the car pass and found this for 4 euros immo not that expensive to give it a try.

Justto confirm, this is the immo there is not another box right?

[kaisergaragerpt]

Also,.you mention replacing the banjo seals.

Which ones?

Did you unplug any electrical connectors at the back of the engine?

If yes, check the plugs on the purge valve and the ECU temperature sensor.

Physically the plugs fit both. But... The purge valve uses 12v, the temp sensor uses 5v.

Get them confused and it kills the temp sensor.

Using live data, the engine temp and guage temp should be almost the same. If they are more than 5% apart then you have got the plugs switched and you have killed the ECU temp sensor.

Check this and report back.

I did changed one broken banjo in the oil cooler and since I was there replaced the washers in al 4 including the water bridge. The connector to the gauge on the dashboard wasn't on I might've forgot it but I put it back. The "My Naff Code Reader" has had readings but since the engine isn't runningand ain't getting hot enough for the dashboard one to compare.

[TheBoy]

Hang on, you had pulled out the immobiliser?  The Spanner light isn't flashing?

Stop randomly changing parts!

[Doctor Gollum]

Also,.you mention replacing the banjo seals.

Which ones?

Did you unplug any electrical connectors at the back of the engine?

If yes, check the plugs on the purge valve and the ECU temperature sensor.

Physically the plugs fit both. But... The purge valve uses 12v, the temp sensor uses 5v.

Get them confused and it kills the temp sensor.

Using live data, the engine temp and guage temp should be almost the same. If they are more than 5% apart then you have got the plugs switched and you have killed the ECU temp sensor.

Check this and report back.

I did changed one broken banjo in the oil cooler and since I was there replaced the washers in al 4 including the water bridge. The connector to the gauge on the dashboard wasn't on I might've forgot it but I put it back. The "My Naff Code Reader" has had readings but since the engine isn't runningand ain't getting hot enough for the dashboard one to compare.

Dash board sensor is different to the ECU one. Check the ECU temp. If it says anything different to the approximate temp of the coolant , ie something random like -40°c that's your problem.

[kaisergaragerpt]

Hang on, you had pulled out the immobiliser?  The Spanner light isn't flashing?

Stop randomly changing parts!

That photo is representative not my immo. But I'm planning on getting one giving the price

The spanner light is on and isn't flashing.

[Doctor Gollum]

Hang on, you had pulled out the immobiliser?  The Spanner light isn't flashing?

Stop randomly changing parts!

That photo is representative not my immo. But I'm planning on getting one giving the price

The spanner light is on and isn't flashing.

Then it's not the immobiliser. Ignoring this won't fix it. And you you plan on using Opityycominty to try andd fix it, you're going to end up with a brick.