Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Viral_Jim]

Morning all,

I finally found the time and inclination to have a crack at the 300c over the weekend and its gone from All-American lawn ornament to fully functioning car - sort of 

When I parked it up last year it had a massive flat spot in the rev range and a number of DTCs relating (loosely) to the inlet manifold. After some fettling, cleaning of connectors this weekend and re-fitting a resistor to the swirl flap motor plug (a common bodge that was already done when I bought the car) the flat spot and CEL are now gone. But...

The P2008 code remains- this code relates to Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Circuit Open (Bank 1). Its not currently putting the CEL on - which strikes me as odd and the only other code on the module relates to a dead glow plug, which I don't think is related. I'm not sure if this code is a permanent feature of bodging the swirl flap motor - its plausible but I can't find any evidence of it online. There's potential for the harness to have rubbed through somewhere but I couldn't see it when I looked.

Any other thoughts gratefully received!   

[Doctor Gollum]

Sounds like it's not entirely happy about the resistor bodge.

What happens if you disconnect the actuators? Do the flaps on both both intakes move freely?

Are the actuators the same? Does swapping them over cause the code to move? If yes then you've found the cause. If not then the wiring is a real possibility.

[Viral_Jim]

So as I understand it there is only a single actuator, centrally located with two arms - one arm for each bank.

I am tempted to price up doing the job properly. All the articles online talk of it costing £800+ but then these are the "take it to the main dealer types so I can see how the bill would build up.

Ultimately I need to decide what to do with the car, if it's off to a dealer in part chop, the fact it has a stored dtc is neither here nor there, if I'm keeping it OTOH....

[Marks DTM Calib]

What value resistor are they fitting instead of the motor?

It would need to be very low in value, and pretty high in wattage if the swirl flap motor is just a motor! (it would be pretty large, if not, it would burn out pretty quickly!).

If it was a bit more complex and has it's own supply, then I would expect a 10k to ground (pretty universally used in automotive to allow the main ECU to detect, open circuit, short to ground, or short to batt conditions, usually using a basic ADC).

[Doctor Gollum]

So as I understand it there is only a single actuator, centrally located with two arms - one arm for each bank.

I am tempted to price up doing the job properly. All the articles online talk of it costing £800+ but then these are the "take it to the main dealer types so I can see how the bill would build up.

Ultimately I need to decide what to do with the car, if it's off to a dealer in part chop, the fact it has a stored dtc is neither here nor there, if I'm keeping it OTOH....

Is there an obvious position sensor for each bank of flaps?

If yes perhaps swap them over and see if the fault moves...

I guess that to do the job properly you're looking at removing and replacing the inlet manifold, in which case you may as well get the oil cooler seals replaced.

On the two V6 diesels I have owned I fortunately never got more involved with the top of the engine than changing the fuel filter and pcv box so have a very hazy recollection of the other valley contents.

The parts are generally cheap enough but working on that engine is quite labour intensive if straightforward enough.