Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[cam.in.head]

.hi .does anyone have the pinout /drawing/wire colours for the drivers side door loom wiring (though to the footwell )please.
i have a slow actuator on the drivers door .always works and does no funny things but comes up slow compared with the instant action of the other doors.
microswitch changed first
actuator changed
door connector checked and cleaned (was a bugger to undo!)
 just going to check the voltage going into it .
as i understand it the door motors are controlled by but not in series with the microswitches ,they are powered from the central locking ecu which does what it does depending on the  info received from the microswitches .

[cam.in.head]

another possibly better option is to do away with the connector completely and just bring extended leads out of the door and through to the footwell but thats for another day and after i confirm the presence or not of full voltage at the actuator

[cam.in.head]

so .  very strange and unconclusive .
ive checked the actuator is getting 12v when operated and it does . first opening of the day is quite slow but any lock/unlocks afterwards is quicker (this is before even starting the engine hence not a low voltage issue with the battery )
ive dismantled the new actuator and checked it internally .there is only 1 microswitch in it and its a 0.1 amp black db3 .(same as in the other switch which is the correct 02 part number as the old original ) so no second microswitch at all and all works ok so not all switches have the documented 10 amp white db2 microswitch ?
dismantled the motor and cleaned the commutator .reassembled and now works as intended even first go !    see how long for !
SO  as its not in the haynes manual (early cars ) where can i find the correct schematic for these later cars with wire colours etc(and connector pinouts ) as i want to fully undertand how this system works .

[cam.in.head]

no takers ?
i did send a couple of recent nessages to kevin wood about the actuators as well but im not 1000% sure the messaging is working as there are no records of the messages in my sent folder even thou i ticked the save messages option ?

[Doctor Gollum]

It's possible that the solenoids aren't receiving the required current.

Because it's not a Kia,.the wires should be the same colour from.the solenoid to the CL.ecu.

They probably run through the large plugs in the kick panel and it's not impossible for them to be slightly corroded. Perhaps not enough to break the circuit but enough to increase the resistance enough to cause a current drop.

Another consideration is if the drivers door check strap has been welded by a gorilla, they may have damaged the door harness on the body side as it's unprotected in the A pillar where the check strap bracket is located.

[cam.in.head]

drivers pillar connector was a bit iffy and i intend to replace it .the car section and the door section too eventually anyway . another member is going to sort me with a car section and theres a good door loom on ebay that looks very good pin condition wise .  i did send a question to kevin regarding the rebuild guide in the maintenence guides section .  i have a saab master unit with the two microswitches and questioned the resistor in the photos .mine doesnt have it ?? its rebuilt now ready to fit just wanted to confirm this resistor but either messaging in faulty or kevin hasnt been online ??
anyway j MAY have found an issue which may be the reason . my original seitch (which i replaced with same) is a 701 number not a 702 .this doesnt have the 10 amp microswitch in it .just the db3 0.1 amp one for position monitoring .the 10 amp white switch in ALL THE OMEGA ONES  has thix to cut the motor power at the rnd of its stroke . my drivers one has vern relying on the ecu timeout .

[cam.in.head]

why dont phones thpe what you want them to !

[cam.in.head]

does anybody know if the correct drivers solenoid 702 has a resistor across the switches ?   and if so what value . i can see a resistor in the naintenence guide but mine doesnt

[cam.in.head]

nobody got a knacjered unit they could open up please to check

[Dave_G]

Hi - I was in the garage when I got this. I have a 702 and here's a couple of pix. The resistor is  grey/red/black - 82ohms.
If you need any more photos while it's in bits let me know...

Cheers.

[cam.in.head]

thankyou very much that helps a lot . if you have a picture ftom further away just showing the embedded tracks on top and maybee two side ciews showing the switch numbers db2 and db3 i beleive that eould be fantastic .
my replacement switch im going to use is a saab version which doesnt have the resistor . i wonder what its for ??

[Dave_G]

Hope these help - both have a DB2 marking.
Can't help you on the purpose of the resistor I'm afraid - at 12V it would pass about 140mA. But that's about 1.8W - and there's no way that size of resistor is capable of that power. Maybe it's suppression of some sort..







Regards,
Dave

[cam.in.head]

thankyou that helps a lot . i reckon your actuator might have been repaired at one point as mine has a db2 10amp microswitch for the motor cutoff and a db3 0.1 amp for positioning .if yours has 2 db2's they might have been changed ( no signs of the original switches mounting side studs also possibly confirms that ) but thankyou very much for those pics and taking the time
chris

[TheBoy]

Fairly sure they normally come with 2 DB2 switches

[cam.in.head]

this is why i asked kevin as he did the guide .but hes never replied ?
thing is my "replacement" unit is a saab one which should essentially be identical . the part numbers cross ref 605328 and 805328 both seem to be the correct keikart / gm......702 unit . and it has a db2 white 10amp inline with the motor ( like the others on the other doors) and seperate 3 terminals to a db3 black  0.1 amp for position monitoring . my actual car one thats been fitted is a 5 pin .......701 unit which i beleive is wrong anyway even thou it has worked fine for the last 10 years so cant be too bad !
unless anyone has an unmolested original to reference i will add the resistor according to the pictures kindly posted by dave g and see how it goes .
( the 701 differs from the 702 and 703 in that the motor goes straight out to  the pins rather than via a db2 relying on the ecu timed pulse to not burn out the motor . it has been ok for this long but may be the reason its getting tired now ? who knows ? i replaced if 10 years ago when i got the car and must have fitted the wrong one then !