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[Mr Skrunts]

I would do cem, but I need to use the car and I cant get in the boot.

Antifreeze is in the boot and tools are too.

Bank holidays are over tomorrow so will drive over to my mates, drop and flush the system and refill with antifreeze mix.

Just need to find out how many litres the system is.

When I park the car nose 1st it seems to protect from the wind, I reversed on the other day and left the car wide open to the cold winds  :-/

5.75 litre total..

of oil...

Water capacity is nearer 10 litres so 5 litres of neat antifreeze for a 50% mix.

Sounds to me like the water pump might be fubar. I'd whip that off for a check while  you've got the coolant drained.

Kevin

Was thinking that and forgot to mention it as one of the things to check today, but also wondering if the rad might still be part frozen.

Saying that there may be just a problem with a water leak as it's been topped up by 2 +1 litres so far.

Full system needs to be checked anyway and wouldn hut to fit a new water pump.  What tools are required?

[cem_devecioglu]

I would do cem, but I need to use the car and I cant get in the boot.

Antifreeze is in the boot and tools are too.

Bank holidays are over tomorrow so will drive over to my mates, drop and flush the system and refill with antifreeze mix.

Just need to find out how many litres the system is.

When I park the car nose 1st it seems to protect from the wind, I reversed on the other day and left the car wide open to the cold winds  :-/

5.75 litre total..

of oil...

Water capacity is nearer 10 litres so 5 litres of neat antifreeze for a 50% mix.

Sounds to me like the water pump might be fubar. I'd whip that off for a check while  you've got the coolant drained.

Kevin

yep.. 

dont know why my mind goes to oil capacity, probably I was planning to change my oil , for that reason

[Mr Skrunts]

My mate came over, we had a good check round, no leaks etc, but temp was upto 97.5 and we couldnt see the rad fans kick in, they are normally on and the car never runs above 95 so as I pull on the drive and turn off I allways hear the fans cooling the rad.

So followed my mate.  4.5 miles and a 10/15 min run.  Temp didnt go high, but when pushed above normal driving (Slightly) the temp dropped.  Heater on full, but not much heat, temp ran high, dropped heater to cold and temp ran about 88.

Played about trying to get what we thought may have been an airlock in the system removed and relised the rad fan had still not been on.  Couple of taps with the screw driver round the plugs in the rad the dfan came on so thought we may have sorted it running above 95.

Did a couple of laps of a main and service/slip road but the temp kemp rising, but higher than had done on drive to his house.

Couple of things we did do, heard a hiss from header tank so took out and turnded the rubber seal over, plus a metal tube with a rubber 1.5" pipe looked like it was coming apart, so losened that and slid it back so the jubilee ckip tightened behind the ridge on the metal pipe.

Still getting high temps, but heard a hell off a lot of banging type noises in the pluming by the bulk head area above pedals, slowly undid rad cap and got a geyser, so let the level set itself and wondered if we had too much water in the system.  had to do this 2 or 3 times and still getting banging in the cooling pipes.

Decided to chance a drive home and noticed whilst the car had hot air coming out of the centre vents then the car ran at 94 or 97.5 but then after a while the air went cold and the temp ran high, pulled over, turned off, listened to the orchestral pluming for 2 mins, restarted, temp at 94 and hot air coming out of vents,  had to stop and do this 5 times to get home.

No misfires car ran like a dream as usual.

So  What is the problem.

Is it just a very awkward air lock caused by odd remnents of ice.

Same has above but affted by what now may well be a FUBAR HBV as changing from hotto cold and back again did seem to have varying affects.

Or as Kevin suggested early on, a damaged water pump - thus not purging air locks on what I believe is a self purging coolant system.  On the basis it does not have a fully efficient flow service through out the plumbing system.

[Kevin Wood]

If you bring it up to temperature and let it idle, do both top and bottom radiator hoses get hot to the touch?

Ditto the heater matrix pipes?

Do you get a little flow through the throttle body coolant pipe into the header tank when fully warmed up?

If not, I suspect the water pump, and the gurgling might well be localised boiling in the block due to lack of circulation.

The radiator fan sensor is in the radiator, so if there is not enough coolant flow through the radiator that might explain why the fan isn't coming on.

It could just be an airlock, of course. Generally running it for a few minutes with the header tank cap off while "massaging" the radiator hoses burps all the air out of a V6 though.

Kevin

[raywilb]

years ago i spent some time in canada -30+ sometimes , I saw whilst there guys putting and lighting longlife Tcandles & placing them in the footwells to keep their car interiors from freezing (candles in a tin incase a grizzly decided to give the motor a rock) as far as i remember it did help  

[Mr Skrunts]

Be careful once it has thawed as it could have sheared the impeller off the water pump.

Now you've run it once, the damage, if any, is done. I would pop out and run it for a few minutes every couple of hours to keep the block warm. As said, the radiator will be a challenge to defrost so some blankets over the front of it to keep the cold out and some source of gentle heat under the bonnet, if possible.

Kevin

Just been and collected the car, the guy showed me the old pump, the metal impeller had been dragged straight off the shaft.  Ah well.