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[Rob James]

Hi,

Recently I changed the oil (first time ever!). I used the guide on this site to help me out, and it took me a while to relise that I didn't have a cylinder to unscrew - but a metal case to take off with the filter inside (obvious to most people, but not to me!).

Anyhow I eventually got it changed, however I think I may have got something wrong - I've just read that there is a lid part for the filter which should come off, when I took mine off the whole thing came off with the filter inside. Am I likely to have problems with a oil leak as mentioned in what I read?

Thanks,

Rob.

[tunnie]

Ah yes, thats not good. The lid itself should just come off, but idiot mechanics over-tighten them way too much. Someone who knows the paper filters more will be along in a sec, you will need to keep a close eye on it 

[Rob James]

Ah yes, thats not good. The lid itself should just come off, but idiot mechanics over-tighten them way too much. Someone who knows the paper filters more will be along in a sec, you will need to keep a close eye on it 

That doesn't sound good. I've done 300 miles on it so far and haven't had any problems, so hopefully I did back up tight enough?

[Kevin Wood]

The paper element filter does indeed have a cap that comes off, leaving the canister body on the engine. This frequently seizes due to over tightening.

If the whole body comes loose, there is an allen headed (IIRC) bolt inside the housing that bolts it to the block.

The lid needs to be separated from the body, then the body offered up and tightened using the bolt, and then the filter inserted and the cap tightened (15Nm max IIRC).

Kevin

[Rob James]

The paper element filter does indeed have a cap that comes off, leaving the canister body on the engine. This frequently seizes due to over tightening.

If the whole body comes loose, there is an allen headed (IIRC) bolt inside the housing that bolts it to the block.

The lid needs to be separated from the body, then the body offered up and tightened using the bolt, and then the filter inserted and the cap tightened (15Nm max IIRC).

Kevin

Ok. So I need to drain the oil and then do that. Sounds like I've got something to do Sat morning!

[ians]

or you could get the conversion kit to use traditional spin on filters.

[Andy B]

or you could get the conversion kit to use traditional spin on filters.

Traditional? Spin on canister filters are the relative new comers, cars always used to have a paper element filter. 

[Kevin Wood]

Ok. So I need to drain the oil and then do that. Sounds like I've got something to do Sat morning!

No need to drain the oil. A little will spill from the canister as it's removed but the sump can remain full.

kevin

[ians]

or you could get the conversion kit to use traditional spin on filters.

Traditional? Spin on canister filters are the relative new comers, cars always used to have a paper element filter. 

Well, traditional as in Omega.  You know what I meant - just want to show your age don't you...

[Andy B]

or you could get the conversion kit to use traditional spin on filters.

Traditional? Spin on canister filters are the relative new comers, cars always used to have a paper element filter. 

Well, traditional as in Omega.  You know what I meant - just want to show your age don't you...

The Omega is actually the first car I've had with a paper element filter!  [smiley=tongue.gif] 

[ians]

or you could get the conversion kit to use traditional spin on filters.

Traditional? Spin on canister filters are the relative new comers, cars always used to have a paper element filter. 

Well, traditional as in Omega.  You know what I meant - just want to show your age don't you...

The Omega is actually the first car I've had with a paper element filter!  [smiley=tongue.gif] 

likewise - actually my fl is the only Omega I've had with the paper type.  I much prefer the spin on - costs a fraction of the paper element too

[Rob James]

The paper element filter does indeed have a cap that comes off, leaving the canister body on the engine. This frequently seizes due to over tightening.

If the whole body comes loose, there is an allen headed (IIRC) bolt inside the housing that bolts it to the block.

The lid needs to be separated from the body, then the body offered up and tightened using the bolt, and then the filter inserted and the cap tightened (15Nm max IIRC).

Kevin

Ok. I'm trying to do this now - working from home means I can do stuff like this in a lunch time!

Undoing the nut has actually taken the lid off as it should do. The question is how do I get the housing off too fit it properly.

I have what looks like an alan key bolt on the outside of the housing - what is this for? do I just need to tighten this up with the housing where it is?

Thanks,

Rob.

--edit--
It isn't a alan key, not sure what it is for but it isn't a nut.

[Rob James]

The housing just screws onto the engine, I think the bolt inside the housing just allows you to tighten the housing rather than it being finger tight. So I've checked I can't tighten this any further (which I couldn't) and have then put the filter and lid back on. So I think it is all ok. I'll go for a quick test run and see if I lose all my oil!

[Elite Pete]

I wouldn't take it for a test drive just incase it does loose all its oil. Start it up and check underneath for any dripping oil first

[Rob James]

I wouldn't take it for a test drive just incase it does loose all its oil. Start it up and check underneath for any dripping oil first

Should have said - already done that  Thanks. Test drive went well also