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[Shackeng]

I've just taken charge of my daughter's TF, 20,000 miles in 8 years as a second car. I shall be giving it some TLC, but does anyone know of any particular issues I should be aware of?

[davethediver]

Is the head gasket a fairly common issue on these :-/ if so keeping on top of coolant changes.

[bluey]

Very important to make sure the cambelt is not overdue for replacement and change the water pump while you're down there.  While we're looking at the watery bits, check the pipework and especially the steel section connecting up to the radiator, these rust away merrily over time.  HGF is not the common issue that people like to have you believe on these and just the two bits mentioned above can give the same water loss issue that gets everyone panicking about fitting a MLS gasket set. Even if it does go, worry not as they are cheap and easy to change.  Useless info for you here, heads should not be skimmed.

The K-Series is actually a superb piece of work. Don't believe everything you get told about HGF on these, and they're not dificult to work on.  Apart from access being a bit rubbish and the VVC with its cam setup is a bit tricky, but still not beyond most people.  They were designed within a miniscule budget and in some areas (ie interior) it shows, but overall it's impressive what got turned out and they are so simple too.

Corrosion areas on the TF will be the same as the F, so get plenty of waxoyl in the box sections and pay plenty of attention to the wheelarches as they can get scabby front and back.  As the TF doesn't use hydragas then you won't need to worry about checking ride heights etc, and lots of the bits underneath as well as scattered about are Metro/214 stuff.  Check out the front hubs and you'll see what I mean!

Very easy to get bits and most stuff is cheap, new parts availability from XPart is fine, and decent following with some good and helpful owners.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Dont damage any trim pieces!

[TheBoy]

Generally most of the issues had been resolved by time TF released.  Plastics inside tend to fall off as they do with most Rovers from the post BMW era (actually, include most Rovers from the BMW era that weren't Honda collabarations!).

Some of them have been thrashed or abused through lack of servicing, but sounds like you know this one's history

Keep a check on coolant level - if this drops, the system holds so little, it soon runs out, and bye bye HG.

[Shackeng]

Thanks very much guys, very useful stuff here. Workshop manual should be here today or tomorrow.

[M20LSY]

Have you got any pictures of it?

[Dishevelled Den]

Have you got any pictures of it?

I love the fence boards in your avatar M20.

[Shackeng]

Have you got any pictures of it?

No, but its a 02 or 03 plate (Can't be ar**d to go out and check)  green TF. Quite shabby at present having spent its life parked on a Brighton street.

[jyr001]

Excellent cars and very underated, providing the cambelt has been replaced to spec and its been cared for it will serve you well. Later models had coolant level sensors fitted to help guard against HGF but these tended not to be reliable. There's no substitute for regular checks. These cars are very particular when it comes to tyre choice. I fitted mine with Toyo Proxys and they were brilliant. The biggest problem I had with mine over three years were the window regulators. Quite expensive and a pain to fit. The older versions (MGF's) had plastic window stops which weren't up to the job but I think the TF's were made of sterner stuff. Happy motoring although not the best time of year to inherit it.

[Shackeng]

Excellent cars and very underated, providing the cambelt has been replaced to spec and its been cared for it will serve you well. Later models had coolant level sensors fitted to help guard against HGF but these tended not to be reliable. There's no substitute for regular checks. These cars are very particular when it comes to tyre choice. I fitted mine with Toyo Proxys and they were brilliant. The biggest problem I had with mine over three years were the window regulators. Quite expensive and a pain to fit. The older versions (MGF's) had plastic window stops which weren't up to the job but I think the TF's were made of sterner stuff. Happy motoring although not the best time of year to inherit it.

It was first registered 20/9/02, and I am embarrassed to say that it has had only two services, one at 7k in 2003 and the second at 17k in 2007. It has now done 21K, so I assume it should have the cam belt done on time elapsed.

[Dishevelled Den]

Have you got any pictures of it?

I love the fence boards in your avatar M20.

That's a better height M but it's a bit wide, some people may have trouble reading your text on  some browsers.



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[bluey]

It was first registered 20/9/02, and I am embarrassed to say that it has had only two services, one at 7k in 2003 and the second at 17k in 2007. It has now done 21K, so I assume it should have the cam belt done on time elapsed.

Yep, the time for changing was based on 5 or 6 years.  The mileage interval tends to be around 60k for most people, it's cheap enough to do anyway so no need to delay it.

[Shackeng]

Further study of the service book does not mention when or if the cam belt should be or has been changed. :-/

[jyr001]

It was first registered 20/9/02, and I am embarrassed to say that it has had only two services, one at 7k in 2003 and the second at 17k in 2007. It has now done 21K, so I assume it should have the cam belt done on time elapsed.

Yep 5 years (or £50k miles) but it's quite common to find very low mileage MG's as they tend to be bought as second (or summer use) cars. When I was looking a few years back I found loads around 10 years old but with no cambelt history and with only 20-30k on the clock. I suppose it's the same issue as with the Mig - or any other car for that matter - the belts die of old age as much as anything else.