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[Nickbat]

Still having AC problems. Discovered the high side valve was leaking, so I ordered a new core. Took the car to my (now) usual aircon place and the mechanic sheared the old valve off. He said "they must have put it on too tight at the factory"

Now, I'm  a bit stuffed. I don't know what part I should try to order.

Can anyone offer any guidance?

[Allenm]

You need to move the {img} (in square brackets) to before the http.  but having done that the picture is not there! -- Added the .jpg - now it is

[Nickbat]

The pic is showing in original post!

[Allenm]

The pic is showing in original post!

All I can see is a square with a red cross in it!

[Nickbat]

It's now showing in your reply!!

This is getting on my ****

I'll try again.

[Nickbat]

Can you see this one?

[Allenm]

Yep, can see that one fine!

[Marks DTM Calib]

Get a replacement section from a scrapper.

The bit below the valve is a quick release joint which can be removed by easing back the rubber cover and removing a circlip.

The other end slots into the condenser bracket, you need to remove the bolt to free if off (get the gas out first). The pulse damper (the metal cylinder) is simply in a mounting bracket on the inner wing.

[Nickbat]

Get a replacement section from a scrapper.

The bit below the valve is a quick release joint which can be removed by easing back the rubber cover and removing a circlip.

The other end slots into the condenser bracket, you need to remove the bolt to free if off (get the gas out first). The pulse damper (the metal cylinder) is simply in a mounting bracket on the inner wing.

Thanks Mark. Is this the quick release joint (circled), where the metal pipe from under the damper meets the rubber section on its way back up?

[Marks DTM Calib]

No, if you follow that section of rubber pipe it goes to the plate on the condenser.

Follow the other pipe and it heads down in front of the rad and off to the compressor.

You should find a join here with a rubber type cover, pull the cover back and remove the circlip (easier from below).....what age is this one as it looks like it might be an early type with a union near the damper.....

[Nickbat]

It's a 1995, Mark.

From what I can see, I may have to get the section right to the receiver/drier unit. I changed that the other week, so I know it's easy to get at the joint and I have a couple of spare seals......(somewhere!!)

[Matchless]

1995 so wont have quick release connectors, just the bolt-up type.
Get a replacement from the scrappers and try to smear a little a/c oil onto the O rings as you assemble......will be a tiny amount in the pipe if you are lucky.

[Nickbat]

Having little luck in finding a scrappie that wants to help out with this. Seems as if I'll have to take the old pipework off and traipse around all the yards in person.

On the other hand, does anyone reckon I could extract the old broken off thread successfully?  

[Allenm]

Am I missing something here?  Didn't you say that a mechanic sheared off the valve?

Get them to sort the bugger out - they broke it!

[Nickbat]

Well, yes, the mechanic DID shear it off, but he said it had been put on too tight originally. He rather gave me the impression that there was no way he was going to take the blame...or fix it. He told me that the same thing had recently happened on a Land Cruiser and that required a huge length of piping replacement.

There's little point in arguing with these small garages. It's certainly MUCH cheaper to take your car to them rather than Vx dealers, but you always run the risk of a cock-up and, unlike Vx dealers, they are more than happy to walk away when things go tits up.

I have to say, that, for something so small, it is, as you say, a bugger of a problem. I haven't received a single response to my parts request on the Vauxahll Gateway network of dismantlers. In the past, I have received a whole stream of quotes for items. This time.....zilch.