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[Nobby]

Engine still cuts out at times when least expect it . No warning, any speed.  Over 3 years I have changed (on advice). Crankshaft sensor, the four pipes on the plenam plus a new connection box on top of plenam. Cleaned out the tiny hole on airbox (was blocked). Cleaned and finaly replaced Idle speed adjuster valve expensive. Every thing runs great. then it appears for no apparent reason ,engine suddenly cuts out. I open the bonnet, nothing is obviously wrong. If I pull of the Idle valve plug and replace , engine will start again . It seems to reset something?.  Any suggestions would be gratfully received.  Flame thrower !, thought about it.  

[nixoro]

If I pull of the Idle valve plug and replace , engine will start again 

Could this be a dodgy/broken connector at fault or dodgy cabling from the ecu. Is there sign of water in the connector at all.

Maybe part of your problem.

[theolodian]

try the paper clip test?

[nixoro]

try the paper clip test?

Its been mentioned in the FAQ section but heres a link to the site

http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm

HTH

[theolodian]

try the paper clip test?

Only really worth doing if the EML has or is on, have a look in the FAQ section for the guide.

HTH

Maybe, I've never done the paperclip test myself, however ECU's can store faults without the engine light being on.  The engine light only has to come on if there is an emissions issue, as part of emissions regulations IIRC.

[nixoro]

try the paper clip test?

Only really worth doing if the EML has or is on, have a look in the FAQ section for the guide.

HTH

Maybe, I've never done the paperclip test myself, however ECU's can store faults without the engine light being on.  The engine light only has to come on if there is an emissions issue, as part of emissions regulations IIRC.

Never knew that. I thought the light came on whether electrical or emissions related. Like when my camshaft sensor was at fault and when the lambda sensor was playing up.

[STMO123]

try the paper clip test?

Only really worth doing if the EML has or is on, have a look in the FAQ section for the guide.

HTH

Maybe, I've never done the paperclip test myself, however ECU's can store faults without the engine light being on.  The engine light only has to come on if there is an emissions issue, as part of emissions regulations IIRC.

Are you sure? Why would I get an EML for a knock sensor?

[theolodian]

try the paper clip test?

Only really worth doing if the EML has or is on, have a look in the FAQ section for the guide.

HTH

Maybe, I've never done the paperclip test myself, however ECU's can store faults without the engine light being on.  The engine light only has to come on if there is an emissions issue, as part of emissions regulations IIRC.

Are you sure? Why would I get an EML for a knock sensor?

I'm not saying that it won't come on for other things, and a knock sensor is important to the safety of the engine.  However, it doesn't come on for everything and it is worth checking the fault codes if something is going on.  Also, as we found out in Timbuk's case the EML was burnt out . . .

[nixoro]

try the paper clip test?

Only really worth doing if the EML has or is on, have a look in the FAQ section for the guide.

HTH

Maybe, I've never done the paperclip test myself, however ECU's can store faults without the engine light being on.  The engine light only has to come on if there is an emissions issue, as part of emissions regulations IIRC.

Never knew that. I thought the light came on whether electrical or emissions related. Like when my camshaft sensor was at fault and when the lambda sensor was playing up.

Just realised both of these have some part in the emissions so your possibly right.

[Nobby]

Thanks Lads , worth another try. I just don't get why it runs for 2or3 mths with now troulble at all, smooth as a nut .I even forget I have a problem with it. Last time was on the outside lane of the M25, and when you have some silly p p p, person tailgateing you its not funny trying to get to the hard shoulder!. No broken wires , etc:.  Next, I'm looking at the immobilizer.  

[Kev]

Are you sure? Why would I get an EML for a knock sensor?

Because the knock sensor is required for correct ignition timing.  

"Under failure conditions, the ECU enters a limp home mode where the timing is retarded to protect the cylinders. This results in the engine running and idling perfectly but, there is a BIG drop in output power."

[JasonH]

Fuel pump relay?

Cranksensor (again)?

[Nobby]

There are two fuel relays, I have changed both . Idle seed valve, no water in socket! not even damp. Crankshaft sensor checked ,both ends ok. When engine cuts out, and I get it going, engine runs perfectly normal,no prob till  the next time. Could be today ,could be 2-3 mths.  I have also changed fuel filter twice recently.  Good engine- 40 mpg (cruse control) Nottinham & back, ie M11 M14 A1.   Local 18 mpg. Co2 ( mot ) very low, ie Fast idle ,0.20=9%.  Natural idle Co  0.06. Fuel injector cleaner used every other fill up, oil changed religiously every 4000. Semi synthetic. Well looked after.

[Kev]

....Crankshaft sensor checked ,both ends ok. ....

Have you checked the entire cable length?

Sensors are sealed and generally quite robust, it could well be the cable at fault, especially where it is routed on the V6.  

Not that i'm saying it's the CrankShaft sensor thats at fault.  

[STMO123]

....Crankshaft sensor checked ,both ends ok. ....

Have you checked the entire cable length?

Sensors are sealed and generally quite robust, it could well be the cable at fault, especially where it is routed on the V6.  

Not that i'm saying it's the CrankShaft sensor thats at fault.  

No. You'd better not mate....or its the whole sackful we'll be after